So it seems that a drum sander would be very handy for many parts of a "build from scratch". There are a few out there that cost under $3000.00 that can handle wood up to 4" thick and are wide enough to sand a back or top after the halves have been joined. Jet JWD-22-44 open stand, 22"width Jet JWDS-2550 open stand, 25" width SuperMax 19-38 opend stand, 19" width SuperMas 25-50 closed stand, 25" width Questions: Any recomendations on the sa…
I have the SuperMax 16-32. Works very well. I have experience using an older Jet model. A few things about the SuperMax: The paper changing system is much easier. The quick release feature to raise/l…
Good evening folks,
lately I'm experiencing some sanding methods/mechanism frustration. Can't explain better than look like I'm regressing at doing it.
The only thing changed in my building routine is that I'm currently using a CNC (I haven't used one for some years) for both bodies and necks. I have no problems with necks, but sanding bodies has become incredibly frustrating, specially around the edges.
While I keep improving my c…
Hi all. Brand new member. I’ve been building a classical guitar via kit from LMI for a couple of years now. I keep putting it off but recently became motivated to get back to it. Unfortunately LMI is out of business so I now have no one to go to to ask questions. I’m at the stage where I’m putting the sides together in the form. I followed the dimensions for the form based on the plans as I measured them, but the sides overlap pretty ba…
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Structurally you are fine. When you glue this up (this is important), make sure your sides are clamped in the form VERY snug so there are no gaps between the sides and the forms. This will leave the…
I’ve been building electric for a few years but decided to make an acoustic this time. I have some German spruce panels I was going to use for the top. While running it through my drum sander to dimension it, I noticed that both panels have matching 6-8” cracks so the original blank must’ve had a split pre resawing. Would I still have good results if I glue the panels and move on or should I buy a new top set? (I can’t return what I have…
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Thanks for talking me down. That’s the right decision. Even though it’s my ‘learning’ build for my own use I need to build it like I would for one of my electric customers. The cheap in me almost won.…
Im going to be starting my 6th acoustic build soon. One issue I continue to have is low spots on the sides. I use an LMI bender with the spring steel slats that LMI provided (they are pretty stout). One observation, sometimes there is a bit of rebound in the sides as I take them out of the bender. I sort of force them into the mold to glue the neck and tail blocks. I’m wondering if that may be where the issue is occurring. After removing…
I find that I get better results, meaning less springback if I let the sides sit in the fox style bender overnight. Also side splints can help as well.
Michael lavecchia Lavecchia guitarVideoNew BuildsLite
Hello all, I’m looking to up my RO game and wonder if anyone has suggestions other than Mirka DEROS for sanding. I don’t have easy access to air so an electric option is best. I have a Ryobi RO sander that leaves scratch marks. I have been looking at Mirka and Surfprep but can’t seem to make the buy. I hope all is well _Mike
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On Ro sanders watch for the stroke, 9/64"(3.5mm) 3/16"(5mm) etc.. the smaller the stroke size the fewer scratches. The bigger stroke size if for more aggressive sanding with lower grits. For fine fini…