The Hub

Dovetail was 9/16” deep, and 1 9/16” wide at the back. 15th fret was 1 mm tail side of the end of the dovetail socket but a slight angulation towards the headstock landed in the right place. Hide glue, released easily. Nice everyday player, finish and binding beautiful, good spruce top, warped poplar neck.

I am working on a neck reset on a Washburn Parlor - SN 283552. I have read that the 28 in the SN indicates that is was built in 1928, but the owner thinks based on her research that it was built before 1920. I am assuming a dovetail joint and that I can get into the neck joint for steaming by drilling into the 13th fret slot, but if anyone knows differently please let me know. The fingerboard extension has already separated slightly…

I had a vintage Gretsch semi hollow come through the shop this week and it's left me with some questions. First off identifying the instrument's model has been a trick so far. The only information I can find is that is was likely built in and around the early 50's Second, it's in need of a neck reset. I'm not particularly well versed in resets for hollow and semi hollow guitars, especially one of this age and design. I'm very curious…

I have an old epiphone archtop on my bench that I am struggling to get the neck off of. I think it's a 50's Zephyr (non cutaway, single NY pickup in neck position). Anyone have any experience with these? Is the neck not a dovetail joint? I'm no stranger to neck resets but this is putting up a fight as if it's been epoxied in place.

Hi, I should do a neck reset on a Guild 512B from probably 1973. I have done neck resets before, but this is the first on a guitar that has some value. I want to look out for information about this specific model before i start working. Has anyone done a neck reset on a simular model? What kind of neck joint did they use, and what are the dimensions? Is there anything specific to look out for? I will probably not start working on the guitar…

I've completed 89 vintage FG neck resets. https://yamahavintagefg.boards.net/ See the Repair section. As others have noted, the joint is very tight, and they put glue in places it shouldn't be, like gluing the face of the heel to the side of the guitar. I've done a few that were fairly easy, and a few that were brutally hard, but the rest were very difficult. A few had little to NO neck pocket! All with steam, and a neck press of my…

A friend of mine gave me his locally built mandolin for a neck reset. The glue in the dovetail has started to fail, and left a large gap at the bottom and a separation from the fingerboard and body. I've taken my brownstone and tried to heat the joint up enough to soften things up, but to no avail. I have no idea what type or where the joint is exactly. There are some indicators that this instrument was built with several flaws in the c…

Here the dovetail location measurements for a 74' Yamaha FG75.

I have a red-label Yamaha FG-180 that’s in overall nice condition, but the neck angle is poor and the heel is already cracked. I’d like to attempt a neck reset, but I’m unsure how to proceed given the existing crack. Should I approach the reset as usual, or plan an alternate method because of the damage? Has anyone here tackled a reset on a guitar with a pre-existing heel crack? I know a crack can develop during the reset process, but I…

I just posted this question over on the patreon app chat which I think might not be the best place, so I'm posting here. Apologies for the redundancy! The Patreon app confuses me a bit. This is a friend's Harmony H162 I'm evaluating. Needs bridge reglued both otherwise is in good shape. It's either had a neck reset before or just doesn't need it as action is low, 3.5/64" on low E with .007" relief. There are two areas I can slip a .006"…