The archived video and recent Council of Elders were very helpful in upping my binding reattachment game. Now I need to correct how much I've been charging! Someone mentioned that Martin pays $90/individual separation, I believe regardless of the length of the separation. Does this include finish repair, if needed? Any other guidelines on pricing for binding reattachment will be appreciated. Thanks! Neil
They pay $90 for binding repair “with touchup” and $80 without. Basically they always send the authorization for “with touchup” and never ask if it actually needs touchup. I tell customers “you dont w…
Hi friends,
I just stumbled upon a 1966 P-Bass, nearly completely original. The owner bought it in 1971 and it had already been stripped of its original finish. That was a thing back then. You can guess that 55 years of gigging had the wood absorb much of the owner’s DNA and sweat. Maybe a few beers as well. Surface was quite tacky as you can expect. I cleaned it with naphta and StewMac’c brand-new cleaner (quite a great product I'd say…
Ill chime in. Go with shellac first. It may be all you need and if you decide to go with something else, youve already applied the universal seal coat. Also, it has the best chance of sticking to any…
Someone recently contacted me about a Gretsch in need of some finish repairs on the binding. This looks to be nitro that has chipped/flaked off over the years and possibly yellowed by nicotine. I'm curious if any of you have experience with this type of repair and what the best way would be to go about it. I'm not anticipating taking this on but I would be interested in knowing the procedure. Thanks!
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Good morning to all - I have another skill building question - picked up another cheapo electric guitar to practice repairs on. I didn't see the big dent, but figured its an opportunity to practice another type of repair. big chunks of polyurethane finish are gone and the bit that's left has a hairline crack around the bottom. I'm thinking to use wood filler to fill in the missing chunks, and want to know if its best to remove the piec…
I don't know, but I did see enough to consider how to best handle it before I start the repair. I can see that the glueboost might be a good way to approach that hairline crack, but who knows what is l…
I have a Taylor Acoustic in for a setup and I had a couple of questions:
1. My main one is how you would go about gluing the label back on? I'm probably overthinking it but I'm curious if there's a universally recognized way of doing this?
2. I have some very minor finish damage which I'm not planning on touching, but I am curious how one would go about repairing it. Would this be a case of drop filling lacquer? What would be the…
I've reglued the corner of these labels many times. If you can just get a perfect little swipe of wood glue on it with a feeler gauge or something and then just hold it down with the erasure on a penc…
I am restoring an old Supertone with a thickened and heavily alligatored finish. The finish softens quickly with acetone, and it looks like it has had an overspray. I would like to keep the staining on the oak back and sides, and to preserve the decal on the headstock. The top I would like to strip and sand.
The questions are:
1. What more do I need to know about the finish?
2. How should I remove the finish or at least thin/smooth…
I don’t see much evidence of overspray. The headstock looks to be in decent shape. I’d just leave it unless the finish is actively falling off. One thing you might try on the top before refin is Mohaw…
I have to place an order and need to add a few things to get free shipping. I was going to add some mixol tints. Any recommendations on useful tones for Acoustic repairs?
I alway start with the primaries - red, yellow, blue - black and white and then a very neutral brown. The idea that with those colors you can mix into anything. Turns out, pigment mixing doesn't work…
Hi All, I have a J-15 in with some finish burn on the back of the neck. I'm wondering what you'd recommend as a repair? Lacquer, Fill N' Finish, something else?
It's not easy to tell in person either. I suspect it's gone through most of the finish but not all of it. There might be spots of wood at the centre. I'll have another look when I'm back in the shed.
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