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Private member DiscussionGeneral

Strange Fender neck with some problems.

Hello fellow looths! I recently had a customer come in with a '71 Fender neck that is a fusion of the 60s and 70s style. It has a veneer fretboard, no skunkstripe, 4 screwholes, 70s style tuners, 70s headstock logo, and it seems like it has a poly finish on the back of the neck, and nitro (with cracking) on the front of the headstock. Can anyone tell me if this combination is possible or could it be fake? Another thing is, even without th…

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Hey Tony, thank you for your info, and sorry for the late reply. I don't spend much time in the loothgroup.. You have an amazing setup! The sheetmetal underneath is genius! I have to build something li…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

How to get a perfectly square neck alignment using the LMII/O'Brien jig

I attach my necks using the LMII/O'Brien jig. No matter the method, there is no guarantee that the neck block and edge of the rim at the top is truly perpendicular to the centerline of the guitar. I’ve just flossed when things weren’t quite right. But now I take a long square, place it on the rim at the neck block and measure where the long square aligns on the top seam. I note Bass/Treble deviation at a known point (I use 290 mm).…

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Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

How would you approach a neck reset where the heel has already cracked?

I have a red-label Yamaha FG-180 that’s in overall nice condition, but the neck angle is poor and the heel is already cracked. I’d like to attempt a neck reset, but I’m unsure how to proceed given the existing crack. Should I approach the reset as usual, or plan an alternate method because of the damage? Has anyone here tackled a reset on a guitar with a pre-existing heel crack? I know a crack can develop during the reset process, but I…

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Hi Nathan. Here are the dovetail measurements from the FG75. Don't know if they're the same but may get you in the ballpark.
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

71 SG Body/Neck Joint Cracks

It was only a matter of time before one of these arrived on my bench. The neck on this 71 SG Deluxe is caving through to the neck pickup cavity— In a similar fashion to what happens on old jr’s. Both sides of the cutaway have cracks that extend through to the pickup route and I can flex them easily. Problem is that the cracks are not straight and wander all over. I worry about being able to get enough glue in there because of this. Thin…

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Ian Davlin
I'm not sure what that would get you other than access to more gluing surface, which aint nothing, but unless you have some whack-a-doo grain orientation, isn't why that broke in the first place. Also…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Fast set up glue jig for hide glue

I've been trying to figure out an easy to use jig that will allow me to clamp a top and back fast, so that I can use hot hide glue. No way with my spool clamp method I could ever get everything clamped in time. I thought about trying to use pneumatic cylinders with 3D printed perimeter feet, but that seemed very complicated and a lot of work to get something to attach the pneumatic cylinders to. But it kept coming back to me that usi…

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Ian Davlin
Dude. That looks pretty cool? Have you thought about making an arch with an ACME screw to just throw center pressure on it? Like a book binding press etc?
Private member DiscussionShare Your Repair Content

Humbucker Cover Removal - An Alternative Method

In this video, I show an alternative way to remove humbucker covers with no soldering required. Check it out and enjoy!

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Private member DiscussionDesign and Testing

Video: Measuring Long, Cross, and Transverse Modes + Thickness Calculator

Hey folks, I put together a video showing how I measure the long, cross, and transverse frequencies on guitar top plates before thicknessing, following the Gore method. I also walk through using the calculator I built (based on Trevor Gore’s equations) to get target thickness and track density / young's modulus. Fair warning: the video’s a bit YouTube-y in tone thumbnail faces, a little energy for the algorithm, but the content is genuine…

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Rick, this is amazing! Thank you so much for creating it and sharing it. I have Trevor’s books but having a calculator to run the equations is really fantastic.
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Tracing and Transferring Cavity Covers

Wondering what methods people use for tracing the shape of a cavity to make new covers, backplates, or switch-plates? Attaching a photo example of a battery cavity that's missing a cover and wondering what the best way would be to trace and reference the size so I can transfer it to a cardboard cutout and eventually cut a piece of wood to cover the cavity?

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Ian Davlin
In the old days I would have done an etching. Tape off the paper really tight and then use mechanical pencil to rub around the edge. Now I would lay that on my office printer with a 6 inch rule, scan…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Pore fillers

What kind of pore filler do you use? I usually use aqua coat, shellac/pumice or stewmac water based mahogany grain filler. Interested in other methods, including zpoxy.

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I have similar thoughts to what you shared. On mahogany, aqua coat looks great. Unfortunately it left white residue in pores when I tried it on walnut. Now I’m curious about gluboost, thanks for the t…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Cutting Clear Plastic Pickguard – Looking for Cleaner Results

I rarely use pickguards on my builds, as most of my guitars are intended for fingerstyle players. That said, I occasionally need to install one, and I've yet to find a cutting method that consistently meets my quality standards. I’ve experimented with several techniques for cutting clear pickguard material, but the results are always somewhat disappointing. Using a brand new X-Acto blade gives a reasonably clean cut, but there's almost a…

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I use raw pickguard sheet material, apply 3M 468MP Double Sided Adhesive Transfer adhesive sheet and trim to rough size with scissors or blades, depending on the pickguard material. I then attach to…
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Repairing recessed jack hole 🕳️

Hello fellow looths ! I'm deciding on a repair method for the jack recessed/angled hole on this Aria Pro SB bass. What kind of direction would you take ?

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Thanks guys ! I'll definitly add wood thickness and use a longer jack then !
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Please share your processes for cracks that need splints

Hello good people, My shop’s in Quebec City, so I get to repair an ungodly amount of cracks thanks to our brutal winter and customers being largely unaware of the requirements of maintaining proper RH. Now for the first time (call me lucky) I have two very good guitars in the shop whose cracks won't close up after having been rehumidified for a few weeks. I have tried over-humidifying and it does it, but once returned to proper RH (50%)…

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Thanks Dave, I'll dive back into Pat's book to see if he covers his technique in there.
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Fret pressing at heel transition

Please can I see some quick cauls for dealing with fret pressing at heel transitions? For pressed / glued in frets or clamping down lifting fret ends in this area. I’ve tried a few different methods now and not entirely happy with any of them

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UK based fret pressing system, with 3d printed caul to add a little more stability.
Private member DiscussionDesign and Testing

Deflection vs. Frequency for measuring flexural modulus

I've been testing all my top and bracewood to find the best combination of stiffness and density, optimize plate thickness, etc. I started with Nicoletti's spreadsheet which calculates both stiffness and density, but since I was also testing deflection, I decided to compare the flexural modulus using that method (with the formula from T. Gore's book) on the same plates and bracewood. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble getting a satisfa…

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Hello Neil, as you rightly pointed out, they are all in reasonable range for the species, but do not perfectly correlate (at least, not all of them). In my experience, the deflection method is is not v…
Private member DiscussionFinish Repair

Matching Fender's Capri Orange

Hi everyone, I’m messed up, dinged a guitar and now I need some advice. I was relocating a screw hole in the top of a capri orange Mexican made telecaster when my drill bit broke and I punched an extra hole in the guitar top. 🤦 I called the owner and told him what happened and he’s going to let me try and fill it in. I don’t do much finish work so I’m not sure what the best method would be. I’m considering gluboost and their MasterTint pr…

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Hey Al, thank you for the suggestion. I think I'll give it a shot with the wast systems epoxy. I'll update you with how it goes.
Private member DiscussionDesign and Testing

Wolf Note?

I have built a steel string guitar that has an annoying high pitched pulsing overtone. The guitar is an x-braced OM style with a thicker depth (more in line with a dreadnaught depth). I have built several of these that do not have the annoying overtone, so I don't think its the specific shape that is causing it. The overtone occurs when the note B2 is played on the G string, 4th fret. Interestingly, it does not occur when the open B stri…

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A bit hard to tell from your description, but is what you are describing as an oscillation a beat frequency? If so, it is possible you have multiples of two resonant frequencies that are nearly colli…
Private member DiscussionTools and Jigs

Broken hex wrench piece drill jig

I just opened a repair shop and the first repair was to remove a broken 1/8" hex wrench ball end from the truss rod nut of a Turner RB4 Renaissance Bass. I read of all sorts of theories on how to extract/remove. None of them had recorded actual attempts of the theories. There's probably others on here but I haven't found them. The ball end was loose and mangled at the rear of the nut sleeve. I tried fairly benign methods first. Heat…

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Slick move. What a clever setup, well done!
Private member DiscussionFinish Repair

How to remove incompatible overspray

I'm still working on this 1958 Country Gent and I am getting closer to getting past the structural stuff and on to the finish work. The entire body appears to have been resprayed with what I'm guessing is some sort of poly a long time ago. It's very yellowed, has multiple big drips across the entire body and flakes right off in big pieces. My plan is to remove it all, clean it up a bit and then respray with nitro. Anyone have great advi…

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Ian Davlin
If it is really failing, you might be able to do it with compressed air. 120 psi with a tight nozzle. If not compressed air, definitely throw a heat gun into the equation. It doesn't take much heat to…