Hi all, I have 4 TRANCE audio installs imminent... these pickups are glued to the bridge plate similar to the KK audio processes... do any of you have any PRO tips on the adhesive to use, placement ideas (possibly different than manufacturer suggestions, etc) and such? Trance Audio suggests E6000 adhesive...but I'm hoping to find something that transfers the vibration in the best manner... (Hide glue??) These are for live performing ac…
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Apparently, the E6000 remains flexible after curing (unlike hide glue). Maybe the flexibility is necessary for the best sound for this pickup. The instructions say to hold it in place for 10 minutes…
Well, it is what it is, I seem to have found myself “the guy” to bring basket case Gibsons too….. I have the following 55’ J-45. The top has some serious belly, and has had not one, but two different directions of bridge on it at various points. I’m trying to flatten the top out with Thompson belly reducers. I first tried the standard plates used for the bridge plate n the guitar, and although it helped, I still found the top to have a m…
I was going to say. If it's hide glue and you're pulling the neck, I've got a move for pulling the top that is a ton easier than pulling the back. If it was in the cards, I would pull the top and pull…
I was finally able to model something like a Gibson L7 top plate! Now I'm trying to build my f-holes... My only reference is the Benedetto archtop book, where it puts a few rules of thumb about how the f-holes should be placed. My question is, how precise are we talking here? One of the rules of thumb is that the bridge intersects at the midway point of the f-holes. Does this imply that the f-holes are at a certain location on the plate,…
Possibly answering my own question...given my current drawing, there is 11.157" from the f-hole point I chose to the end of the body. If you assume that's the 14th fret, it implies a 26" scale length…
Dave Slimmer OldSchoolGuitarLoothprintRepair and RestorationLite
Initial frequency analysis of this D28 copy (done with a temporary 35g bolt-on bridge and the back plate taped on) is VERY LOW. Main air resonance 83.5hz and top monopole 156.6. It's standard Martin scalloped X-bracing with a torrefied Adirondack top. Since I can still easily access the bracing, I'm thinking of going in and laminating wood on top of the X brace to stiffen it. Other options would be a very light bridge, though I'm not…
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Update: Turns out it's not impossible to raise the frequencies. Removing the 35g temporary bridge raised the air resonance 2.1 hz and top monopole 2.6 hz, so a lighter bridge could help a bit. Fill…
An Alvarez MF350C arrived on my bench recently. The bridge was lifting ever so slightly, which prompted me to look inside. It's got a bridge plate like I've never seen before. The pin holes are on the very edge of the bridge plate. Seems like you'd want some of the re-enforcement behind the bridge pins. This one, there is none. Some questions: Is that normal for an Alvarez? Could this have been replaced at some point? What are the implicat…
Hey Looths, I have on my bench a 40's Gibson Banner J-45. At some point someone glued a supplemental bridge plate onto the original plate. I assume this was done in an attempt to reinforce with string balls having torn up the OG plate. My customer would like me to remove this and uncover it's secrets. Client usually brings in very nice instruments and understands the nature of guitars from this era so communication on this is pretty str…
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Much appreciated, Ian!
Doug Proper - Guitar Specialist, Inc.ArticleTools, Spaces, Robots, and WidgetsLite
This is my mid 50's LG-1. I had the back off to replace the bridge plate and one of the braces. I've got it all back together now but I'm lacking the knowledge to make my work disappear. I was using amber CA glue to color the binding but that didn't seem like the proper route so now I'm scraping, filing and sanding that back off and starting over. I watched Doug Proper's demonstration on liquid binding repair and that did have a lot…
Hey all. I've got the above-mentioned guitar on my bench. It had a neck reset and what appears to be a new bridge pad put in 14 years ago. It's a crack-free guitar except for a couple of little hairlines running from the back of the bridge to the upper tone bar. I thought that was a bit weird. Inside, everything looks okay until I turn off the inspection light, at which point I can see the rosy glow of daylight through the top - this…
In classical woodworking theory, yes - crossgrain glue-ups are a real no-no, but we get away with it in guitarmaking all the time. We're the rebellious bad boys of woodcraft! In this case I went w…