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Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

More Tanglewood bridge issues

The COE reviewed this bridge disaster in January, a Tanglewood acoustic given to me that had the bridge ripped off as well as some of the underlying top, and an attempted repair with spruce veneer (COE video link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlpOIWQrAlw&t=2685s). The general opinion was to install a bigger bridge plate. However, once I removed the existing bridge plate, I found that the underlying repair had not been fully done,…

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Ian Davlin
Private member DiscussionFinish New Builds

Ken Parker finishing with the Bridge on

Just wondering, anyone doing Ken Parker finishing on an acoustic with the bridge glued on? I've been using the finish for a while but I'd like to start glueing the bridge on before I finish so I can acoustic test everything in its final state. I can't see a reason why I couldn't wipe the epoxy and oil up into the bridge joint and then remove it by rubbing but I was wondering if anyone has done it already. It would mean finishing the…

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Ian Davlin
Which finish are you talking about ? It sound's like it's hand applied.
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

reality check - bridge repair - Epiphone PRO-1 Plus VS

I got this guitar for free hoping to further my skills and experience in guitar repair. I removed the bridge. its not in good shape and I don't think I can glue it back together with any hope of it holding tension again. I haven't been able to find a replacement that is of the same shape and dimensions. Epiphone/Gibson is no help. The top of this guitar is not at all flat. I don't know if I should try to flatten it before attempting to…

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Private member
Hi Mitch - The string spacing on that new bridge is probably too wide. I googled the Epiphone, and if the AI is right, it says the spacing is a narrow 2 3/64" (52mm). You may be able to buy one with…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Questions on Classical guitar action

I am working on a wall hanger that I thought would be fun to get working. It is an old Tokai. I have repaired a crack on left tuning arm. Also removed the bridge that had been badly glued on by previous owner. I am deciding if I want to put the effort into re-fretting it. I am new to Classical guitar actions, so my question is this - when you put a straight edge on the neck, where should it hit the bridge, if at all? I have learn…

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Here is a link to photos of work so far : https://share.icloud.com/photos/043WoRjVTKnK8Y3-Y3bOaHQYQ As you can see, the action is not bad, neck is straight, frets at top are .028 but flat, progress to…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Cracked x-braces on Guild F20

Looking for some advice on a repair for a 1966 Guild F20. The guitar top is significantly depressed (bowl shaped) around the sound hole. This is due to both upper x-braces being cracked as they tuck under the purfling. Also, the bridge is starting to pull off. Any suggestions on sequence of actions? Specifically, should I try to flatten the top area above the bridge and around the sound hole prior to fixing the x-braces? Would it be…

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Tony thanks for sharing this example. Your work really paid off! My top deflection is about the same (1/4" at the sound hole). It's interesting to me that you took the bridge plate off. When I reach in…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

First Bridge Re-Glue: Soundboard Tearout?

Hi all, I got a cheap Facebook marketplace guitar (“Olympia by Tacoma”) to try my hand at a bridge re-glue. The removal went okay, though I definitely learned a lot and will do better next time! The finish wasn’t masked in the bridge area, which is to say the bridge was glued to the finish, not the wood. I don’t know if that made it more prone to tearout or if that’s entirely explained by my lack of finesse with the pallette knives. Any…

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Thanks, Ian! Missed your note somehow. That Frank Ford article is great, such a clear explainer. My rasped-spruce + Titebond wood paste filler is in place and has been curing a few days. I'll sand it a…
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Replacing Nylon Saddles on a Gibson SB-400 bass

I need some advice on replacing some saddles. I have been restoring a "dumpster dive" 1972 Gibson SB-400 bass, with a Multiplex bridge. It has nylon saddles, one of which has a crack. The screws upon which the saddles ride are not removable, as the end has an enlarged cap (see picture). How do I replace the saddles without destroying the screws? I repaired the cracking nylon saddle by supergluing two layers of fiberglass wrap (used for f…

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I had a discussion with Joel Wilkens about the nylon gibson used for nuts and saddles and he had concluded that modern nylon formulations were not as tough. He recommended using 20-30% "glass filled"…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

55’ J-45 basket case

Well, it is what it is, I seem to have found myself “the guy” to bring basket case Gibsons too….. I have the following 55’ J-45. The top has some serious belly, and has had not one, but two different directions of bridge on it at various points. I’m trying to flatten the top out with Thompson belly reducers. I first tried the standard plates used for the bridge plate n the guitar, and although it helped, I still found the top to have a m…

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Ian Davlin
I was going to say. If it's hide glue and you're pulling the neck, I've got a move for pulling the top that is a ton easier than pulling the back. If it was in the cards, I would pull the top and pull…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Gibson Banner Bridge plate overlay removal

Hey Looths, I have on my bench a 40's Gibson Banner J-45. At some point someone glued a supplemental bridge plate onto the original plate. I assume this was done in an attempt to reinforce with string balls having torn up the OG plate. My customer would like me to remove this and uncover it's secrets. Client usually brings in very nice instruments and understands the nature of guitars from this era so communication on this is pretty str…

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Much appreciated, Ian!
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

1950 Martin D28 with localized scary thinning.

Hey all. I've got the above-mentioned guitar on my bench. It had a neck reset and what appears to be a new bridge pad put in 14 years ago. It's a crack-free guitar except for a couple of little hairlines running from the back of the bridge to the upper tone bar. I thought that was a bit weird. Inside, everything looks okay until I turn off the inspection light, at which point I can see the rosy glow of daylight through the top - this…

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In classical woodworking theory, yes - crossgrain glue-ups are a real no-no, but we get away with it in guitarmaking all the time. We're the rebellious bad boys of woodcraft! In this case I went w…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Regluing Taylor bridges and others with embedded electronics

I was recently asked to do some set up work on a Taylor GS Mini when I noticed the bridge beginning to lift at the back corner on the treble side. The pickups/electronics are mounted through the bridge plate and bridge, which is not something I've dealt with before and I'm wondering about how you all approach bridges like this. Any tips, tricks, warnings, etc. Would you tend to remove the bridge and reglue (if so, how nightmarish is it d…

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I'm not sure if you're aware but I worked at Taylor for 24 years, 19 of those in the Repair Dept. Dust and glue is totally appropriate, especially on the Tecate made guitars. That's what customer servi…