I recently had a guitar come in with a crack in the top. The top was an arch top so the top was thick and the crack uneven from side to side so I wanted to be able to supply more pressure then just using magnets to be able to even up the crack sides. But access was limited to a small sound hole and so no way to get jacks or a clamp to fit. I also wanted to use full length longer cleats instead of fiddling with the tedious fishing reel…
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Cool. That screw is, in fact, a bull pin. The plate is not threaded. The threads help hold the screw/pin in position (won’t wiggle/fall out) Your take is spot on and the whole idea of sharing with t…
I watched the Guild F-20 video (https://dev2.loothgroup.com/groups/repair-and-restoration/forum/topic/cracker-x-braces-on-guild-f20/#post-60310) with great interest since I've been working on a Gibson L-3 with a similar problem. A little back story - The original repair request was to address a small pickguard crack on the sound hole side. After peeking inside, I saw 5 loose brace ends on the treble side. Still a pretty standard repair…
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That move of 3D printing the taper you want and running it through the sander to make a copy just blew my mind! Thanks for sharing Dave!
Looking for some advice on a repair for a 1966 Guild F20. The guitar top is significantly depressed (bowl shaped) around the sound hole. This is due to both upper x-braces being cracked as they tuck under the purfling. Also, the bridge is starting to pull off. Any suggestions on sequence of actions? Specifically, should I try to flatten the top area above the bridge and around the sound hole prior to fixing the x-braces? Would it be…
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Tony thanks for sharing this example. Your work really paid off! My top deflection is about the same (1/4" at the sound hole). It's interesting to me that you took the bridge plate off. When I reach in…
I would really appreciate some advice on this repair that I need to do. I've built a number of (classical) guitars so far, but this is my first repair job. I have already set the expectations with the customer that I can probably fix it structurally but the repair will be visible. The guitar is modestly priced and of no historical significance so it seems like an ideal project to take on as a first one. The guitar suffered a blow on the…
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It makes me realize how spoiled we are here in America. I shouldn't complain as to the time it takes to get stuff and that I can get it at all.
Okay gang I have a doozy of a crack repair. Young guy brought in a Epiphone LP Limited Ed. He had picked up the case while it was unlatched at the guitar took a nasty tumble. Severe finish damage, and the wood has a shear split in it as well. The undercoat is thick with a thin layer of nitro color on top. Spoke with a sweetwater rep and they said that the finish was nitro. Here's the guitar specs via Zsounds: Epiphone Inspired by Gibson…
Did you reach a solution yet KT? I have a similar issue with the same guitar, although my damage is midway down the neck. I may start experimenting with ideas this weekend in my attempt to avoid refini…
Im going to attach some photos of a 000-style guitar from Potomac(I believe an Eastman product) that has some top cracks and deformation around the neck block from what I assume to be a shift of the neck block. How do you all approach repairs like this. Im thinking that pulling the neck and somehow pushing the block back into place from the inside is about the right course of action, but if anyone has some advice, Id appreciate it! In th…
Pulling the neck would probably be the best move for absolute bullet proofedness. Chances are high that this was put together with some kind of titebond variant and the joint between the top and the n…
In the process of evaluating the repairs needed on this guitar I checked to see if the truss rod was working. There is hole in the transverse brace where you would normally insert a truss rod, but all I see is the end of a metal bar with a smallish hole in the center. I tried several allen wrenches that would fit in the hole, but nothing seems to grab. Did they really eliminate the adjustable truss rod on this vintage reproduction? Here'…
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A reproduction with that much wrong?!?! Did the thing go of a cliff in the back of a car without a seat belt, get thrown, and wash up 10 miles south?
Hey y'all, Got another interesting job I'd like some advice on. It's a 70s yamaha classical the current owner inherited from his father. At some point it developed a rather nasty top crack, to the point that I'm thinking the job would involve fresh spruce being applied in there. That's routine enough at least, albeit uncommon for New Zealand's climate in my experience so far. (Also open to suggestions on cleaning out the crack to accept…
Hello good people, My shop’s in Quebec City, so I get to repair an ungodly amount of cracks thanks to our brutal winter and customers being largely unaware of the requirements of maintaining proper RH. Now for the first time (call me lucky) I have two very good guitars in the shop whose cracks won't close up after having been rehumidified for a few weeks. I have tried over-humidifying and it does it, but once returned to proper RH (50%)…
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Thanks Dave, I'll dive back into Pat's book to see if he covers his technique in there.
Hi everyone, I was hoping to get some advice on training opportunities. My background and situation (briefly), I’m a self-taught guitar tech and electric luthier with 3 years experience (after 20yrs office work). I have a job in a high volume guitar shop doing setups and quality checks on outgoing/sold guitars. The store does repair work but I have not been included in this, despite many requests. I do not believe this is due to skill le…
Joe, It sounds like you know A LOT more than I did when I started my business. I started it as a side hustle and worked another job during the day, growing skills on nights and weekends and taking on…
Hey all. I've got the above-mentioned guitar on my bench. It had a neck reset and what appears to be a new bridge pad put in 14 years ago. It's a crack-free guitar except for a couple of little hairlines running from the back of the bridge to the upper tone bar. I thought that was a bit weird. Inside, everything looks okay until I turn off the inspection light, at which point I can see the rosy glow of daylight through the top - this…
In classical woodworking theory, yes - crossgrain glue-ups are a real no-no, but we get away with it in guitarmaking all the time. We're the rebellious bad boys of woodcraft! In this case I went w…
Hello everybody, I have a 2001 Guild 12-string in my shop that I suspect got a little too hot in a car. The extent of the damage is what you see here, the two cracks in the top and some warped binding where it meets the neck. I don't see any loose or damaged bracing. After looking into it a little, I found Frank Ford's approach: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/D45FBTopCrack/d45fbtopcrack.html b…
Today I have spent the better part of five hours attempting to get the fingerboard extension free on this guitar. I am using the method I have used for dozens of neck resets: 100 watt halogen bulb with heat shields. After a couple hours I thought I was making some progress under one corner, only to discover after some movement that my palette knife was going through the top. I then abandoned that area and have been applying heat and…
There's a lot going on here. So I'll make a list The lightbulb I use is the 250 watt infrared bulb. Not sure how it compares to the halogen. If it is hide glue, I like to add spit to my knife. It's tem…
I drew up and printed these F hole plugs for a customer a little while back, felt like showing them off here. The bottom diamond shaped piece has a M4 nut in it, and is super glued to the body of the plug at its two tips. An M4 screw threads into the nut through the counter-sunk hole in the top of the plug. The entire plug drops into the F hole, and then you can tighten the screw slightly to expand the plug so it clamps itself into plac…
Introducing Poseidon’s Horn! Coming in just shy of 18”, this tubular behemoth is the ultimate mess-free humidification device for closing up those pesky top and back cracks prior to repair. It’s dry to the touch and holds 1000ml of water! The days of finessing a Tupperware through a sound hole are over. Cheap and quick to make! Parts list (Supplies to easily make 10 of them) . Water beads - https://a.co/d/5v5Q2da . Braided sleeving - https:…
Acoustic Vibes Music is looking for a lead tech that would primarily be working on Martin and Taylor warranty issues. We are a Martin and Taylor Warranty Service center. So everything from Setups, to making new nuts/Saddles, minor finish repair, refrets, binding repairs, cleating cracks in tops, Pickup installation, strap button installation, pickguard removal and installation, bridge removals and reglue, level crown/polish, and oc…
I have a 1915 Washburn parlor that just walked through the door. Bridge plate is pretty chipped out and led to a top crack and the bridge pulling up. The plate is tucked in the kerfing so removal isn't an option. Anyone ever dealt with this sorta thing before?
If it were me, I would pull and replace. You can make a depth stop saw by cutting a saw blade and gluing to pieces of wood on either side. As this is a spruce bridge plate, it would respond favorably…