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Hey all, I’m curious to know people’s general thoughts on the appropriate or ideal saddle height after a reset. And, when to replace a bridge that’s been shaved down. I know there are a lot of factors (for me anyhow) and this question could open a whole can of worms when it comes to the specifics of the guitar, its age, style of bridge and desired sound. I’m providing an example I encountered recently, but would also like to know people…

I know some of you pros that have been doing repairs for years must have a tool.....Anyone have any suggestions for a trussrod tool to adjust a mossman? or photos of something i can make on the fly? I have tried shaving down a socket but no luck the brace inside leaves little to no clearance.

What support or bracing is common around a soundport that is placed on the upper bout at the edge of the instrument, where the lining or kerfing typically holds the guitar together? I've been able to find info on direct top or side upper bout soundports, but I haven't had much success when looking for the support structure once you've cut into both the side and top. Any resources or tips would be appreciated.

Hello, (First post) I'm a newer builder and I'm rebuilding an old destroyed archtop as a learning experience. I am using WEST System epoxy to glue in the new braces. I successfully got the first one in and the problem is with the second. It appears that the epoxy for the second brace did not set or cure. The leftover glue in the little cup is still flexible and sticky after a few days. I suspect the issue is I didn't have enough hardener…

In the process of evaluating the repairs needed on this guitar I checked to see if the truss rod was working. There is hole in the transverse brace where you would normally insert a truss rod, but all I see is the end of a metal bar with a smallish hole in the center. I tried several allen wrenches that would fit in the hole, but nothing seems to grab. Did they really eliminate the adjustable truss rod on this vintage reproduction? Here'…

Initial frequency analysis of this D28 copy (done with a temporary 35g bolt-on bridge and the back plate taped on) is VERY LOW. Main air resonance 83.5hz and top monopole 156.6. It's standard Martin scalloped X-bracing with a torrefied Adirondack top. Since I can still easily access the bracing, I'm thinking of going in and laminating wood on top of the X brace to stiffen it. Other options would be a very light bridge, though I'm not…

Hello everybody! I've got a newer Martin Special 16 (all solid wood with matte back/sides and gloss top) in for some loose braces. Here in Houston I'm used to dealing with acoustics damaged by over-humidification or extreme heat rather than what I often see addressed in the group by you wonderful folks in your colder (normal) climates. My customer had this guitar shipped to him from Wisconsin, and I suspect it was exposed to some extreme…

I've got a Gretch G2420T with Bigsby B60 on my repair bench. When the customer plays, the strings are coming out of the saddles. We're thinking of replacing the B60 with a Bigsby B70 to increase the break angle over the saddles and bridge. Any concerns with that? I noticed the B70 is only on center block models. The G2420T is hollow body. Will the inside braces support the B70 enough?

A customer brought a Martin D28 in for an assessment and below is the main issues with the guitar. It has two loose braces and two warped/broken "stringers" along the back of the guitar. In addition, the guitar is a candidate for a neck reset, although I think I can possibly kick that can down the road, and my main concern is the loose braces. I'm wondering what the best way to repair something like this is? I don't have much experience…

I have built a steel string guitar that has an annoying high pitched pulsing overtone. The guitar is an x-braced OM style with a thicker depth (more in line with a dreadnaught depth). I have built several of these that do not have the annoying overtone, so I don't think its the specific shape that is causing it. The overtone occurs when the note B2 is played on the G string, 4th fret. Interestingly, it does not occur when the open B stri…

So this 46' J-45 came to me at a very very low price as it needs extensive repair. Much that I am confident in, cracks, bridge/bridge plate issues, loose braces and the like. There are however a few points that id like the groups opinions on. The neck angle is pretty great and theres a good amount of fret, however, at some point in its past, someone shaved down the neck to a dangerous point, and the back of the neck has toms cracks along…

Hi, I am thinking about building a copy of a Gibson LG. I measured an old LG0, that a friend of mine owns. For my own build I want to go for X Bracing. I do not have acces to an LG1, 2 or 3. Does anyone have a plan with measurements for the top bracings you want to sell? Thanks, Jacob

This is my mid 50's LG-1. I had the back off to replace the bridge plate and one of the braces. I've got it all back together now but I'm lacking the knowledge to make my work disappear. I was using amber CA glue to color the binding but that didn't seem like the proper route so now I'm scraping, filing and sanding that back off and starting over. I watched Doug Proper's demonstration on liquid binding repair and that did have a lot…

Hello everybody, I have a 2001 Guild 12-string in my shop that I suspect got a little too hot in a car. The extent of the damage is what you see here, the two cracks in the top and some warped binding where it meets the neck. I don't see any loose or damaged bracing. After looking into it a little, I found Frank Ford's approach: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/D45FBTopCrack/d45fbtopcrack.html b…

I can't help but think how building a similar design into a guitar would help stiffen up the transverse brace and aide to prevent distortion from string pressure.

Hard to get a good recording of it but clear as day in person, I assume truss rod rattle? Checked braces, piezo system, bridge bolts,tuning machine ferrules all seem tight, anything else to check off? And as for fixes, what to y'all prefer these days?

Hallo dear luthiers, maybe you have some tips or opinions for a repair in my shop. It is classical guitar with spanish heel. The neck collapsed into the soundboard. I will not be able to completely close the gaps in the soundboard by pressing. There is also a break in the foot. Do you think it is enough to reglue the braces etc, add something under the soundboard and fill the gaps with wood filler or is it structurally neccasary to add spl…

I've got a 1970s Harmony Stella parlor guitar and the top seems to be buckling. There is (at least one) loose brace. I assume that there's something going on with the neck block, and that just re-gluing the brace isn't going to fix this. I have no experience removing necks or doing neck resets. This is my own guitar, and I bought it as a learning tool, so I am comfortable using it as such. So... Is my assessment about the neck block likel…