Looking for some advice on a repair for a 1966 Guild F20. The guitar top is significantly depressed (bowl shaped) around the sound hole. This is due to both upper x-braces being cracked as they tuck under the purfling. Also, the bridge is starting to pull off. Any suggestions on sequence of actions? Specifically, should I try to flatten the top area above the bridge and around the sound hole prior to fixing the x-braces? Would it be…
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Tony thanks for sharing this example. Your work really paid off! My top deflection is about the same (1/4" at the sound hole). It's interesting to me that you took the bridge plate off. When I reach in…
I would really appreciate some advice on this repair that I need to do. I've built a number of (classical) guitars so far, but this is my first repair job. I have already set the expectations with the customer that I can probably fix it structurally but the repair will be visible. The guitar is modestly priced and of no historical significance so it seems like an ideal project to take on as a first one. The guitar suffered a blow on the…
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It makes me realize how spoiled we are here in America. I shouldn't complain as to the time it takes to get stuff and that I can get it at all.
Hey all, I’m curious to know people’s general thoughts on the appropriate or ideal saddle height after a reset. And, when to replace a bridge that’s been shaved down. I know there are a lot of factors (for me anyhow) and this question could open a whole can of worms when it comes to the specifics of the guitar, its age, style of bridge and desired sound. I’m providing an example I encountered recently, but would also like to know people…
I know some of you pros that have been doing repairs for years must have a tool.....Anyone have any suggestions for a trussrod tool to adjust a mossman? or photos of something i can make on the fly? I have tried shaving down a socket but no luck the brace inside leaves little to no clearance.
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Ya! That'll work.....I might weld the rod in. That's the beauty of the 12 point. Don't have to turn much to re-engage.
What support or bracing is common around a soundport that is placed on the upper bout at the edge of the instrument, where the lining or kerfing typically holds the guitar together? I've been able to find info on direct top or side upper bout soundports, but I haven't had much success when looking for the support structure once you've cut into both the side and top. Any resources or tips would be appreciated.
Hey Cory, Here is my method which came from Sergei deJonge; I add at least one layer of lamination materiel on the inside of the rim behind the location of the soundport. Must be done prior to gluing…
Hello, (First post) I'm a newer builder and I'm rebuilding an old destroyed archtop as a learning experience. I am using WEST System epoxy to glue in the new braces. I successfully got the first one in and the problem is with the second. It appears that the epoxy for the second brace did not set or cure. The leftover glue in the little cup is still flexible and sticky after a few days. I suspect the issue is I didn't have enough hardener…
In the process of evaluating the repairs needed on this guitar I checked to see if the truss rod was working. There is hole in the transverse brace where you would normally insert a truss rod, but all I see is the end of a metal bar with a smallish hole in the center. I tried several allen wrenches that would fit in the hole, but nothing seems to grab. Did they really eliminate the adjustable truss rod on this vintage reproduction? Here'…
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A reproduction with that much wrong?!?! Did the thing go of a cliff in the back of a car without a seat belt, get thrown, and wash up 10 miles south?
Initial frequency analysis of this D28 copy (done with a temporary 35g bolt-on bridge and the back plate taped on) is VERY LOW. Main air resonance 83.5hz and top monopole 156.6. It's standard Martin scalloped X-bracing with a torrefied Adirondack top. Since I can still easily access the bracing, I'm thinking of going in and laminating wood on top of the X brace to stiffen it. Other options would be a very light bridge, though I'm not…
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Update: Turns out it's not impossible to raise the frequencies. Removing the 35g temporary bridge raised the air resonance 2.1 hz and top monopole 2.6 hz, so a lighter bridge could help a bit. Fill…
Hello everybody! I've got a newer Martin Special 16 (all solid wood with matte back/sides and gloss top) in for some loose braces. Here in Houston I'm used to dealing with acoustics damaged by over-humidification or extreme heat rather than what I often see addressed in the group by you wonderful folks in your colder (normal) climates. My customer had this guitar shipped to him from Wisconsin, and I suspect it was exposed to some extreme…
I've got a Gretch G2420T with Bigsby B60 on my repair bench. When the customer plays, the strings are coming out of the saddles. We're thinking of replacing the B60 with a Bigsby B70 to increase the break angle over the saddles and bridge. Any concerns with that? I noticed the B70 is only on center block models. The G2420T is hollow body. Will the inside braces support the B70 enough?
That B70 appears to have the roller out in front to keep the strings down. If it's in the financial cards, I'd think that could work. The question is whether the extra length is going to be weird.
A customer brought a Martin D28 in for an assessment and below is the main issues with the guitar. It has two loose braces and two warped/broken "stringers" along the back of the guitar. In addition, the guitar is a candidate for a neck reset, although I think I can possibly kick that can down the road, and my main concern is the loose braces. I'm wondering what the best way to repair something like this is? I don't have much experience…
That guitar got wet. Probably from a humidification situation gone sideways. This is a borderline ruined guitar. You want to look at it on the loothalong ?
I have built a steel string guitar that has an annoying high pitched pulsing overtone. The guitar is an x-braced OM style with a thicker depth (more in line with a dreadnaught depth). I have built several of these that do not have the annoying overtone, so I don't think its the specific shape that is causing it. The overtone occurs when the note B2 is played on the G string, 4th fret. Interestingly, it does not occur when the open B stri…
A bit hard to tell from your description, but is what you are describing as an oscillation a beat frequency? If so, it is possible you have multiples of two resonant frequencies that are nearly colli…
So this 46' J-45 came to me at a very very low price as it needs extensive repair. Much that I am confident in, cracks, bridge/bridge plate issues, loose braces and the like. There are however a few points that id like the groups opinions on. The neck angle is pretty great and theres a good amount of fret, however, at some point in its past, someone shaved down the neck to a dangerous point, and the back of the neck has toms cracks along…
That break in the neck is probably the truss rod breaking on through to the other side. That would require something radical to become stable. Maybe pulling the board, the rod and then layering some C…
Hi, I am thinking about building a copy of a Gibson LG. I measured an old LG0, that a friend of mine owns. For my own build I want to go for X Bracing. I do not have acces to an LG1, 2 or 3. Does anyone have a plan with measurements for the top bracings you want to sell? Thanks, Jacob