The Hub

We hear a lot in LoothLand these days about 3D printing. I think it's an awesome use of that technology for what we all do. With my long history with AutoCad and 3D rendering in my previous life, I should pull the trigger on a 3D printer, but I'm just not ready yet AND I have no available space for one in my little shop or in my office right now. Yes, 3D printing is great, but sometimes, good ole regular printing can be a surprise frien…

My heat blanket left some blushing in the finish on this 1970s Japanese guitar. The bridge was epoxied on and I got it too hot. I’ve used a heat gun to warm the finish (the blushing goes away) but it comes right back when it cools. Am I stuck with removing the damaged finish and touching up?

This is a super sucky repair, I know. A customer brought this Goldtop LP in. He decided he wanted stainless steel posts. So he pulled out the post, then somehow broke a drill bit off inside the hole. The broken bit is still in there. Then he put the new stud in and broke it off too. He asked me to remove both the broken stud and the broken drill bit. 🤷‍♂️. This may impossible but any advice is appreciated.

This is pertaining to steel string builds, dreadnaught or OM style. Michael Bashkin mentioned in a recent zoom chat that his bridges weigh in at about 25 grams. I have also heard some builders shoot for an even lighter bridge. The pre-made bridges I have purchased in the past from LMI come in at about 39 grams. What are some other opinions on this? And how do I modify the LMI bridge to reduce weight? That seems like a lot of material to…

Hi Gang, I was finishing up a new guitar and discovered a rattle that I think is the truss rod. Strange that it did show up until now. I always rap on the neck to make sure the truss rod does not rattle before I begin finishing. Anyway, I finished the setup and was recording the final frequency responses (like Gore and Giuliano Nicoletti) and the rattle only happens when I tap the bridge with the sound hole blocked. Anyway, it sounds l…

I had a customer contact me and he told me that he has a Zager ZAD80CEOM and that the bridge is staring to raise at the back. He says the gap is about 1/32" and would like me to remove the bridge and reapply it. I have yet to see the guitar in person and I'm a bit hesitant to take it on. I've never performed this type of operation before, although I do have some theoretical knowledge of it, just not practical. Some of the question I hav…

I recently picked up an inexpensive acoustic with a belly bulge and lifting bridge for some repair practice. I got the bridge off and used the TJ Thompson belly reducer to reduce a lot of the bulge. However, some of the wood stuck to the bridge during removal and the wood left on the guitar is now uneven and has some chipping. Should I remove the wood from the bridge, carefully remove wood from the top of the guitar to get the bridge area…

Have you ever had a really stubborn bridge plate to remove? I had one not too long ago that seemed to resist wetting with a damp cloth, and subsequently all the heat I could get from my silicone heating pads. After much effort I got about 80% of it out cleanly. The remaining 20% required hours of work with a finger plane. That experience made me think about the Brown's Guitar Factory bridge plate removal tool I had purchased years ago,…

Acoustic Vibes Music is looking for a lead tech that would primarily be working on Martin and Taylor warranty issues. We are a Martin and Taylor Warranty Service center. So everything from Setups, to making new nuts/Saddles, minor finish repair, refrets, binding repairs, cleating cracks in tops, Pickup installation, strap button installation, pickguard removal and installation, bridge removals and reglue, level crown/polish, and oc…

I have a 1915 Washburn parlor that just walked through the door. Bridge plate is pretty chipped out and led to a top crack and the bridge pulling up. The plate is tucked in the kerfing so removal isn't an option. Anyone ever dealt with this sorta thing before?