I got this guitar for free hoping to further my skills and experience in guitar repair. I removed the bridge. its not in good shape and I don't think I can glue it back together with any hope of it holding tension again. I haven't been able to find a replacement that is of the same shape and dimensions. Epiphone/Gibson is no help. The top of this guitar is not at all flat. I don't know if I should try to flatten it before attempting to…
Hi Mitch - The string spacing on that new bridge is probably too wide. I googled the Epiphone, and if the AI is right, it says the spacing is a narrow 2 3/64" (52mm). You may be able to buy one with…
So, I made a modular clamp based on the split clamp idea. Started on a prototype about two months ago and finished it. What I was aiming for was a clamp that I could use on the BOTTOM of acoustic guitars as well as tops to clamp cracks, cleats, braces, patches etc. Especially a clamp that would access small openings like "F" holes, small sound holes etc. Essentially a way to get a clamp to areas not accessible to jacks, wedges etc.,…
Before I hack into the Yamaha, I would like to get the opinion of the experts on a method of steaming the upper end of the guitar and ‘pressing’ the neck down to adjust the angle back to factory. There are several you-tubers that have tried and recommend it. My novice intuition is that even though it may work, wont the steaming of other areas of the body such as upper braces, etc, end up weakening the construction (glue stability) to…
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Thanks for all of the inputs. I am going to order the foam cutter package. I will try to post some pics of the FG200J. In the meantime, I just got done doing a neck reset of a crappy Fender that ha…
Hi Everyone, I was given this guitar to harvest parts from and then throw into a fire due to a partial break in the neck. When I pull the neck to close the break the action is perfect so I'd like to fix it and then donate it. Can anyone show me what clamps to use to keep it closed after I glue it? Also, would you recommend strait wood glue or would you water it down somewhat to allow it to seep in further? Thanks in advance!
What kind of cauls do you have at your disposal ? I would thing a radiused sanding block and an F-Clamp would get this back together readily. As far as the glue, you could start with watered down Tite…
I am looking for new ideas on tools or methods for cleaning under partially loose braces to insure a good glue joint. In the past I've tried flossing with sandpaper, using the metal cutting edge from a wax paper box, maybe some extra thin files. In this job, one of the loose braces is up against the bridge plate, so it's impossible to pass something all the way through. The loose parts are marked with the red ellipses.
I've completed 89 vintage FG neck resets. https://yamahavintagefg.boards.net/ See the Repair section. As others have noted, the joint is very tight, and they put glue in places it shouldn't be, like gluing the face of the heel to the side of the guitar. I've done a few that were fairly easy, and a few that were brutally hard, but the rest were very difficult. A few had little to NO neck pocket! All with steam, and a neck press of my…
I have some SolidWorks 3D models of a few neck joints. What's a good file format? It helps to have an assembly and parts to be able to see how they fit together.
A customer brought this Gibson songwriter deluxe in, it’s approximately 20 years old to his recollection. It needs a few things done including fret work and a bridge re glue. At some point the guitar was lent out to a friend who dropped it then tried to fix the finish themselves. It looks like they used some kind of cleaner or something that didn’t get along with the lacquer at all. I’ll attach pictures but it’s kinda hard to get a pic…
I agree with this. Just Novus probably wasn't going to be enough. It kind of looks like someone accidentally used alcohol instead of naptha. It's a very subtle boo boo. Use some 2000 grit sanding pape…
I bought the O'brien vacuum clamp and a pump to clamp bridges on new builds, but also to use for repair work. I got tired of making custom top and bottom cauls for every odd-shaped bridge that comes in my shop. The vacuum clamp works great on a flat surface with no pick guard. I put it on a J45 with a pick guard, and it won't seal. The gasket is too hard to form over the pick guard. I've seen YouTube videos of other folks using vacu…
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Scott, Here is a pic of me using the clamp over a Taylor guitar that has a pickguard. I am able to get it to create a seal. The bigger issue for me is making sure to mask off the bridge pin holes and…
So I’ve finally gotten around to hammering a couple frets in after sawing the slot. There is the tiniest gap between the fret and fingerboard is this normal or did I not saw enough. I think you would like the fret to be completely flush right? You can barely fit a piece of paper under there. How much leeway is there to this? Also I will be using CA glue.
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I don’t, I should’ve bought it in my last order. I realized my problem. I thought I could get away without a fret radius machine. The jescar frets (47095-S) I bought are 10” radius and my neck is a 14…
There is a pocket in a block below the soundboard that a mortise fits into. It has glue on the sides and bottom that looks like epoxy. This took me four hours to removed
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I'm not sure the following applies to all Godin family guitars, but there is information online that the factory switched to this type of joint around 2006 on Seagull brand models. I can confirm that…
I would really appreciate some advice on this repair that I need to do. I've built a number of (classical) guitars so far, but this is my first repair job. I have already set the expectations with the customer that I can probably fix it structurally but the repair will be visible. The guitar is modestly priced and of no historical significance so it seems like an ideal project to take on as a first one. The guitar suffered a blow on the…
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It makes me realize how spoiled we are here in America. I shouldn't complain as to the time it takes to get stuff and that I can get it at all.
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A friend of mine gave me his locally built mandolin for a neck reset. The glue in the dovetail has started to fail, and left a large gap at the bottom and a separation from the fingerboard and body. I've taken my brownstone and tried to heat the joint up enough to soften things up, but to no avail. I have no idea what type or where the joint is exactly. There are some indicators that this instrument was built with several flaws in the c…
I had a very unique instrument come into the shop yesterday. It's an American built Weissonborn/lap guitar (*spelling). The top has separated from the kerfing and sides on the lower left bout, and was raised significantly while under string tension when the customer dropped it off. I have a two fold problem as I see it. Applying horizonal pressure to a very light and fragile instrument, and getting enough glue into the separation where…
Hey KT, I do a few ideas about how to go about this one. If you'd like to discuss them, by all means reach out to me. Email is probably the best. My email is [email withheld]. we can set up…
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Private memberDiscussionFolk, Bluegrass, Irish, Old Time Instruments
The previously glued scroll on a mandolin headstock has broken off again. I've seen Frank Ford's fix, where he routs and glues in a spline, but I am wondering if there is a simpler fix for a less expensive instrument. Thanks.
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This works if you can glue it so it holds in place. Carefully drill a hole from treble side of the scroll, into the other side. Then epoxy a carbon fiber dowel in. Make the dowel slightly shorter…
Hello, (First post) I'm a newer builder and I'm rebuilding an old destroyed archtop as a learning experience. I am using WEST System epoxy to glue in the new braces. I successfully got the first one in and the problem is with the second. It appears that the epoxy for the second brace did not set or cure. The leftover glue in the little cup is still flexible and sticky after a few days. I suspect the issue is I didn't have enough hardener…
Hi all, I got a cheap Facebook marketplace guitar (“Olympia by Tacoma”) to try my hand at a bridge re-glue. The removal went okay, though I definitely learned a lot and will do better next time! The finish wasn’t masked in the bridge area, which is to say the bridge was glued to the finish, not the wood. I don’t know if that made it more prone to tearout or if that’s entirely explained by my lack of finesse with the pallette knives. Any…
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Thanks, Ian! Missed your note somehow. That Frank Ford article is great, such a clear explainer. My rasped-spruce + Titebond wood paste filler is in place and has been curing a few days. I'll sand it a…
I dyed an East Indian Rosewood bridge black to match the Blackwood fretboard before gluing it on*. The bridge is now glued to the top. What are some ways to "fix" that dye into the wood. I'm not crazy about TruOil - up to 40% mystery oil..... *I did a sample on rosewood with 4 different "dyes" and they were all stable, would not rub off with paper towel, naptha or mineral spirt. I went with the TransTInt. I did not however test with…
@Chris Frederick Guitar Recovery LLC I tried some "Lemon Oil" over the already dyed bridge and it actually set the color, thanks for sharing that. I don't know why that worked, but it did. I'll fini…
Hey all, I am really enjoying digging through the looth group. I have not yet watched all the ding kings vids or read all the amazing comments and articles here, but I've been appreciating some of the loothing for dollars stuff, seeing other people's intake sheets, discussions about dealing with customers, and it led me to this question: How do people deal with customer expectations, liability, and the inevitable accidents that can happ…
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@member some really solid perspective here, thank you. You're so right regarding the bit about some of the more abusive customers being the most obsessed with cosmetics, to paraphr…