Looking for some guidance here – I have a 1973 Jazz Bass with maple fretboard and fretboard binding in for a re-fret. The finish is of course built up thick and crackly along the frets, and although they’re not seated too nicely, the first few came out really tough and chippy even after scoring the finish really well. I’m aware that Fenders were fretted sideways until 1982, but because of the binding, pushing them out sideways is not an…
Ok perfect. I use the newer StewMac fret pullers with the slightly narrower jaws than the older type in your video you shared. Are those your preferred pullers?
I love the option of levelling a finish with dry paper as it's so much easier to see your progress, though I'm not convinced dry paper has much advantage over wet sanding with good silicon carbide paper after levelling. The dry-sanding options I'm aware of include Eagle's Assilex/Buflex, Klingspor's GreenTec, 3M's Flexible Polishing Papers, Micromesh, etc. I've used the 1st 2 in this list and found that the GreenTec clogs faster, but it'…
PPP4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
No apologies for the novel. It's great information. One question I have with the Assilex is how to know when it's shot. Since it doesn't clog up, and wipes clean, it's hard to tell when it's worn o…
Hi, I'm wondering how to achieve this color on a guitar. It's Sparkle Burgundy. I suspect the clear varnish has yellowed with age, which is why it has a coppery effect depending on the light. Can you recommend a varnish to achieve this effect? Should I use a UV lamp after varnishing to age the varnish? Thanks in advance for your help.
This is a guess, but I think that is a red translucent finish over bronze powder. Probably gold top powder. Some of the red has done been UVed out and the clear coats have turned yellow.
I was asked to turn this Fender American Natural Strat into a hard-tail. It would have taken a good while to finish this plug without LED Coatings. I used SM Colortone H2O base grain filler colored with MIxol Ochre; sanded it flat an hour later, then put on a finish with LED Clear Gloss colored with Colortone Stains (Straw, Light Yellow, and a touch of Med. Brown). The entire finish took 25 minutes. THen I glued it in with Epoxy colored…
P1 reply
1 reply
LikeShare
PPrivate member
We recently switched over to UV cured coatings and it is absolutely worth it!
I would really appreciate some advice on this repair that I need to do. I've built a number of (classical) guitars so far, but this is my first repair job. I have already set the expectations with the customer that I can probably fix it structurally but the repair will be visible. The guitar is modestly priced and of no historical significance so it seems like an ideal project to take on as a first one. The guitar suffered a blow on the…
PPP13 replies
13 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
It makes me realize how spoiled we are here in America. I shouldn't complain as to the time it takes to get stuff and that I can get it at all.
Hey all! Anyone know what lacquer pigment might better match the deep black colour of this tele body? It’s an American tele deluxe with a nitro finish. Photos show: Finish damage was the size of a quarter. I’ve filled and levelled the area and sprayed on coat of Oxford black nitro. I poured a puddle of naphtha on to check the match and unfortunately no dice. I’ve used Oxford black many times for overspray during repairs and have always fo…
P4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
Black colour tone was absolutely the one that matched. Applied it with an airbrush and then did my clear with cans. Thanks again Ian.
Hello fellow looths! I recently had a customer come in with a '71 Fender neck that is a fusion of the 60s and 70s style. It has a veneer fretboard, no skunkstripe, 4 screwholes, 70s style tuners, 70s headstock logo, and it seems like it has a poly finish on the back of the neck, and nitro (with cracking) on the front of the headstock. Can anyone tell me if this combination is possible or could it be fake? Another thing is, even without th…
Hey Tony, thank you for your info, and sorry for the late reply. I don't spend much time in the loothgroup.. You have an amazing setup! The sheetmetal underneath is genius! I have to build something li…
P
Private memberDiscussionFolk, Bluegrass, Irish, Old Time Instruments
A friend of mine gave me his locally built mandolin for a neck reset. The glue in the dovetail has started to fail, and left a large gap at the bottom and a separation from the fingerboard and body. I've taken my brownstone and tried to heat the joint up enough to soften things up, but to no avail. I have no idea what type or where the joint is exactly. There are some indicators that this instrument was built with several flaws in the c…
Okay gang I have a doozy of a crack repair. Young guy brought in a Epiphone LP Limited Ed. He had picked up the case while it was unlatched at the guitar took a nasty tumble. Severe finish damage, and the wood has a shear split in it as well. The undercoat is thick with a thin layer of nitro color on top. Spoke with a sweetwater rep and they said that the finish was nitro. Here's the guitar specs via Zsounds: Epiphone Inspired by Gibson…
Did you reach a solution yet KT? I have a similar issue with the same guitar, although my damage is midway down the neck. I may start experimenting with ideas this weekend in my attempt to avoid refini…
Hey all, I’m curious to know people’s general thoughts on the appropriate or ideal saddle height after a reset. And, when to replace a bridge that’s been shaved down. I know there are a lot of factors (for me anyhow) and this question could open a whole can of worms when it comes to the specifics of the guitar, its age, style of bridge and desired sound. I’m providing an example I encountered recently, but would also like to know people…
I'm not sure this belongs in this subcategory, but not sure where else to post it. Could use another set of eyes and expertise on this. Customer came through yesterday wanting to sell a 1950 Gibson L-48. It's been played and loved quite a bit, but despite that it plays and sounds very well. The tuners are cheap replacements, the fingerboard being well worn, and the missing finish in areas, otherwise it seems like everything is structura…
Hey everyone. I'm wondering if anyone has a good recommendation for a water based finish that buffs nicely. I currently use lacquer but I'd rather use something less toxic. One finish that's come up in my research is General Finishes Enduro line. Has anybody used that before?
PPP4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
I switched from Nitro Cellulose Lacquer to Target Coating's EM-6000 last build. It was essentially equivalent to nitro without the long cure times or toxicity. And finish-sanded dry before buffing.…
23 yo acoustic in for touch ups. EIRW, nitro. Has a couple of spots on the sides that look like this. In good general shape. What’s going on here? No texture, its under the finish.
PPP7 replies
7 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
kinda looks like compound in the grain from buffing, then relized the grain wasent sealed well & cleared some more over it...
Hi all, I got a cheap Facebook marketplace guitar (“Olympia by Tacoma”) to try my hand at a bridge re-glue. The removal went okay, though I definitely learned a lot and will do better next time! The finish wasn’t masked in the bridge area, which is to say the bridge was glued to the finish, not the wood. I don’t know if that made it more prone to tearout or if that’s entirely explained by my lack of finesse with the pallette knives. Any…
PP6 replies
6 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
Thanks, Ian! Missed your note somehow. That Frank Ford article is great, such a clear explainer. My rasped-spruce + Titebond wood paste filler is in place and has been curing a few days. I'll sand it a…
I picked up a few samples of the Hard Wax Oil from LED Coating Solutions. I wondered if anyone has experience with this product, specifically with mixing liquid dyes to customize the finish. I'd prefer to tint the clear finishes as needed instead of buying so many samples (they are a bit pricey). Let me know. Thanks!
PP2 replies
2 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
Hi Chris, I have so many samples of these finishes, that I would have to see photos of the ones you have, please send me them; please post them here and I bet we have the same stuff. I have been addin…
We’re Hiring: Experienced Luthier Mike Lull’s Guitar Works is looking for an experienced Luthier to join our team. We’re seeking someone with strong hands-on experience in instrument repair and restoration who’s ready to work in a collaborative, high-quality shop environment. Our demand for our acoustic repair and restoration services as well as our own line of guitars/basses is growing year over year and we’re looking to add to the tea…
Hey! I have been working on repairing a d-18 that had a large hole in the side. I glued in a backer, cleaned up the edges and after a few attempts got a patch glued in and leveled. I have been testing finish on some scrap but am getting lost in the woods. In my tests I am doing most of the color in the grain fill. Does anyone have tips on how to start touching this up? Thanks!
PP13 replies
13 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
I did a repair on this Martin and had to sand the entire side and refinish. I found this was the best way for me to get a good result. I could have tried spot finishing but I'm sure I wouldn't have b…
Just finished my 7th acoustic guitar and have an issue that is perplexing me. Before putting strings on the guitar the bolt on neck fit very well. However after stringing up there is a tiny gap at the heel (please see pic). If I take off the strings (removing string tension) to floss the joint the gap isn't there. Does anyone have tips to remedy the issue?
Neck block could be flexing. Threaded insert could be pulling out. How much have you coved out from the heel ? Do you have any pics of the neck and neck block not assembled etc ?