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Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Martin Bridge Plate Crack

Hey all. I have a Martin D18 with a severe belly up. The bridge has nearly popped off all the way at the time it was brought to me. Looking inside, the bridge plate has a crack going across all the pin holes. There's a few additional cracks above them toward the sound hole. Replace, or not replace, that is the question? Is this plate salvageable, with a tool like StewMax's BridgeSaver? I'm planning to heat treat the footprint of the bri…

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Private member
I'm all about the path of least resistance and filling with epoxy sounds good to me. But you mention watching out for additional cracks. What about the cracks on both sides in the plate above the pin…
Private member DiscussionFinish Repair

Blushed finish from heat blanket

My heat blanket left some blushing in the finish on this 1970s Japanese guitar. The bridge was epoxied on and I got it too hot. I’ve used a heat gun to warm the finish (the blushing goes away) but it comes right back when it cools. Am I stuck with removing the damaged finish and touching up?

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Private member
Unfortunately it does not respond to solvent. I think it spoiled the finish itself. I’ll cut it out, tint the area, and try a GluBoost fill
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

Gibson LG-1 1957 fingerboard extension glue will not loosen

Today I have spent the better part of five hours attempting to get the fingerboard extension free on this guitar. I am using the method I have used for dozens of neck resets: 100 watt halogen bulb with heat shields. After a couple hours I thought I was making some progress under one corner, only to discover after some movement that my palette knife was going through the top. I then abandoned that area and have been applying heat and…

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Ian Davlin
There's a lot going on here. So I'll make a list The lightbulb I use is the 250 watt infrared bulb. Not sure how it compares to the halogen. If it is hide glue, I like to add spit to my knife. It's tem…
Private member Discussion3D Printing

F Hole Plugs for Archtop

I drew up and printed these F hole plugs for a customer a little while back, felt like showing them off here. The bottom diamond shaped piece has a M4 nut in it, and is super glued to the body of the plug at its two tips. An M4 screw threads into the nut through the counter-sunk hole in the top of the plug. The entire plug drops into the F hole, and then you can tighten the screw slightly to expand the plug so it clamps itself into plac…

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Private member
Great idea, and I love the idea of comically oversized F holes.
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

How to treat warped neck

Hi everyone! I'm looking for advice about heat treatments for a warped neck, I know they are a thing but I've never actually done one. I have an Epiphone Les Paul in the shop that originally I was only going to do a level/crown/polish and a setup on, but when I tried to adjust the truss rod and checked the fingerboard with a straight edge I noticed there was about .030" of relief in most of the middle section, which was pretty consisten…

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Thanks so much, you guys! I appreciate the help. Sorry I haven't replied, got caught up in things :)
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

Yamaha FG-325 1977 Tan Label

A Yamaha FG-325, from the late seventies with the tan oval label, made in Taiwan. I gave plenty of heating time to get the joint fairly hot. It had "that green glue", pretty strong stuff. The pocket was a little bit before the 15th fret, just like other Yamahas from this Era.

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Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Mexican made martin neck removal

I’m struggling with removing a neck from an 12 string x series martin. I’ve tried using a heat probe on the 15th fret in multiple places and steam as well. It’s a bit loose, but still not going out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

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Private member
Holes need to be drilled 1/2" outside center line. Buy Pat DiBurro's book and you'll never look back, everthing you need to know. Some of the super cheap Mexican Martin's wer glued up with super glue…
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

Takamine F370S Lawsuit Era Dreadnaught

I was able to get this one out using two Foam cutters and a little extra external heating of the heel with a heat gun on the low setting. Drilled at 15th fret as usual and got lucky, the holes intersected and scorched the dowels. I still had to wrestle it for about an hour... Converting to bolt-on is fun because the dowel holes will make aligning things easier. Once the dowels are removed, I'll just use two of the holes to refasten with…

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Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

neck removal - steam or heat?

I've done a few neck resets lately, (new territory for me) using the StewMac Heat Stick. It does a fine job releasing the glue, my problem is filling the hole in the 15th fret slot so that it isn't noticeable. I did a lighter colored rosewood board lately that certainly could have been better. I'm thinking of trying the needle/ steam method instead but haven't found a controllable source for steam. I would appreciate any advice with…

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Private member
These from Hotwire Foam Factory work great, and the small holes are usually hidden by the fret wire. The cheaper ones require a slightly larger hole, and run hotter, so scorching is a concern. They…
Private member DiscussionTools and Jigs

Poseidon’s Horn: The Ultra-Humidifier

Introducing Poseidon’s Horn! Coming in just shy of 18”, this tubular behemoth is the ultimate mess-free humidification device for closing up those pesky top and back cracks prior to repair. It’s dry to the touch and holds 1000ml of water! The days of finessing a Tupperware through a sound hole are over. Cheap and quick to make! Parts list (Supplies to easily make 10 of them) . Water beads - https://a.co/d/5v5Q2da . Braided sleeving - https:…

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Private member
Well that's pretty damn cool.
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Strange(?) bellying on Martin 000-15 SM

Just realized that I posted this on the main feed earlier and should have posted it here. Apologies for my poor posting skills. Will go and delete the original now.... Hello all, I’m new around here and excited to continue lurking and learning, taking in all the great content and the knowledge of all you experienced looths. I am more familiar with building than repairing, but I am interested in learning all I can about both. I’m happy to…

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Private member
Yeah, I don't know. I would start by calling Customer Service. They will either direct you to a warranty operation for verification or if they let you send the pics, they might just issue a Return Aut…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Fixes for a buzzing truss rod?

Hi Gang, I was finishing up a new guitar and discovered a rattle that I think is the truss rod. Strange that it did show up until now. I always rap on the neck to make sure the truss rod does not rattle before I begin finishing. Anyway, I finished the setup and was recording the final frequency responses (like Gore and Giuliano Nicoletti) and the rattle only happens when I tap the bridge with the sound hole blocked. Anyway, it sounds l…

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Private member
I've fixed many a loose rattling truss rod. If you wrap your knuckles on the back of the neck you can usually hear it. (or maybe you have the felt head hammer for resonance testing?) If there are finge…
Private member Discussion3D Printing

Lifting print

Hey yall, having some print adhesion problems. I have heard of this problem but I have never had it happen to me yet. Using a endet 3 Neo. Printing on their glass plate. Everything always sticks super good to it. I printed 2 prototypes of this print and they went pretty well. Using a different filament and it’s failed 3 times now. Usually around the 4th layer. I tried raising the bed heat to 70, but it didn’t help. Maybe @member@member

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Private member
I was having adhesion issues on my Ender 3 after about 18 months of flawless printing. The culprit for me was the coating on the bed and I read from other users that this is a common issue. Perhaps th…
Private member DiscussionShop Organisation

Shop humidity: Am I nuts to focus on dew point instead of relative humidity?

Not sure if this is the best place for this, but whatever. I need somebody to check my logic here--I could be completely wrong in my thinking. I'm about to start up my new shop in Ireland, and the humidity/temperature situation is VERY different than the Greater Washington DC region. I will also be unlikely to have as complete control over temperature and humidity as I did in our extremely tight, air-conditioned house in the US. I also k…

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Private member
Maybe ask other Ireland luths? @member Maybe your shop should be somewhat dryer than the dryest that your customers homes would be?