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Have you ever had a really stubborn bridge plate to remove? I had one not too long ago that seemed to resist wetting with a damp cloth, and subsequently all the heat I could get from my silicone heating pads. After much effort I got about 80% of it out cleanly. The remaining 20% required hours of work with a finger plane. That experience made me think about the Brown's Guitar Factory bridge plate removal tool I had purchased years ago,…

I tend to watch the recordings in my free time when they are posted to the group. So it is important to me that recordings make it to the website. Theres a few i see on the patreon that i dont see on the website: Bashkin pore filling 3d modeling showdown Wood and finish repair I was also wondering if there was ever a video of the actual vacuum bagging and big reveal of the carbon headstock repair. I know there was the setup video which was…

@member @member I have a question for you. I'm starting to measure spruce for a couple of classical guitars I'm going to make. I used structured sides (I'm calling them cored) on one of my last guitars and it came out notably great. I accidentally thinned the top more than I might have and it seemed to work very well. My thought is that the sides are so stiff that it's allowing the top to survive structurally even…

Someone in a Facebook group shared this site www.saturn-guitar-circuits.com and I wanted to pass along to this group. It's a non-comprehensive collection of the guitars coming out of post WWII Japan. The circuits are easy and nothing we haven't seen before. What's more interesting to me are the catalogued instruments. Being able to look at a pictorial guide and know the difference from something made in the Fujigen factory vs. Matsumoku…

Had to replace the bridge, new one was modeled to the original specs, however the footprint is a little forward and showing some bare wood. I don't really want to pay for another rosewood bridge. After regluing the bridge, I was thinking of a shellac fill and trying to do some like very light color work to blend around the bridge wings. Interested in how y'all would approach such an issue.

This is a 1983 Martin Shenandoah D-2832. From what I've found, this joint continues to be used on similar models until at least 1987, after which I don't know. It has a single bolt accessed inside the body behind a wood cover. The face of the heel is inset a mm or two and is glued fully at the face of the body joint. Drill holes under the 14th fret right at the joint to loosen the glue.The neck is removed laterally rather than vertically…

This neck reset database is going to be massively useful. If you come across something new or weird, add a topic here. You know the sort of info that'll be good here: For the title, maybe use the instrument model (and a year if possible). Obviously add a photo or two. If you can, include some measurements (or place a ruler in the photo). That'll help with stuff like finding dovetail pockets for drilling. Anything that could trip up an unsu…