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This guitar does not have a dovetail. It has five dowel. Three in line and two at the top on either side of the truss rod. Remove truss rod nut before sliding neck straight out.

Greetings all! I’m repairing a student-level cello, neck snapped off at the heel. I removed the fingerboard and reattached the neck with hide glue. It was a pretty clean break, and fit back together nicely. My question is – some sources say to reinforce the neck joint with 1 or 2 dowels before attaching the fingerboard, some say don’t… anyone have opinions or experience one way or the other? Thanks!

So I have a ‘58 D-18 in for a lifting bridge. Upon inspection I find a 1/2” dowel glued from side to side about an inch below the top right under the front of the bridge. I’m baffled as to what this is or what it’s for. The current owner didn’t know it was there. Was just going to leave it alone (ya know, just back away slowly 😂) but it’s located such that I can’t get bridge clamps above or below it to reglue the bridge. And informatio…

Model is "The '80". Daion built some nice guitars in the 70's and 80's out of a small shop in Japan. Nice old all mahogany 12 string. It's my instrument so doing a bolt on conversion. Forget about trying to get the neck off one of these (apart from Kung Fu) - neck construction seems to be based on multiple dowels (a bit like some Japanese furniture I suppose)

Hey! So I've got a customer who has dropped off with me one of the nastier headstock breaks I've seen in recent memory. There is excess glue of some sort (rock hard, clear) all inside the break, along with the threaded tracks of the screws. I'd usually just recommend a replacement neck in this case, but the customer is desperate to keep this neck as it holds some sentimental value to him. He's aware the repair will not be invisible, how…

This is an early 80's Jester. The only identification is the label inside which appears to show the model number as ACW160, though I've only seen reference to model W160 online. There is scant information about Jester guitars online, and some of it seems inconsistent. This was most likely made in either Holland or Romania. Online information indicated that this would have a dowelled neck joint, but it clearly doesn't. This was a very di…

The label is torn so not sure of the model, but it looks like F-10 or A-6 examples online. I even saw one that had both A-6 and F-10 printed on the same label. Anyway, it's a lower end guitar with a doweled joint. The glued joint damaged the top layer of the laminated sides. It was like that when I received it.

We hear a lot in LoothLand these days about 3D printing. I think it's an awesome use of that technology for what we all do. With my long history with AutoCad and 3D rendering in my previous life, I should pull the trigger on a 3D printer, but I'm just not ready yet AND I have no available space for one in my little shop or in my office right now. Yes, 3D printing is great, but sometimes, good ole regular printing can be a surprise frien…

I was able to get this one out using two Foam cutters and a little extra external heating of the heel with a heat gun on the low setting. Drilled at 15th fret as usual and got lucky, the holes intersected and scorched the dowels. I still had to wrestle it for about an hour... Converting to bolt-on is fun because the dowel holes will make aligning things easier. Once the dowels are removed, I'll just use two of the holes to refasten with…