This guitar appears to have been assembled with urea formaldehyde glue, which is insoluble in water and doesn’t melt at any reasonable temperature. It is definitely not hide glue or resorcinol.The neck pocket is not under a fret slot. Luckily, very little glue was used to assemble the neck and it was all on the cheeks of the tenon and the neck came off rather easily using a combination of the StewMac heat rod and foam cutters, with smal…
Is anyone using the LuthierTool Neck Angle Jig. I have a quick question about setting up to cut the tenon and getting the correct angle dialed in for cutting the heel block. TIA for any help
A Gagliano Jumbo probably made by Kay in the 1950's. It looks like this had a previous neck reset based on the shims and some sloppy chisel work. I removed the 14th and 15th frets because I had read that these might have a straight tenon. I didn't need to drill any holes for heat, as the spruce shims both split in half after the fretboard extension was released. The dovetail is about 11mm long, the pocket is 14mm deep, and the 15th fret…
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So it's a traditional dovetail joint then? Hard to tell if there is a taper from photos. The Galiano-labeled guitars made by the Italian luthiers working in NYC in the first half of the 20th century…
I just pulled the neck off a Vega Arthur Godfrey Solo Lute baritone ukulele. It was pretty easy. First I heated and loosened the short fretboard extension. I already knew the neck was attached with a glued butt joint and small straight tenon. The picture show where I drilled three holes for foam cutter heaters. I only used the two on either side of the tenon, at the 16th fret (Note: neck joins body at 16th) and didn't need the hole at…
A while back I saw a Canna Guitars video on Instagram and thought his use of the “wave” scarf joint between his neck and headstock was an interesting use of CNC. But it got me thinking about other options, and this idea percolated in my brain: Cut a regular scarf joint, but then using a CNC cut a tenon into the neck, and a mortise/dado into the headstock. (Obviously you could also do this by hand with a saw and chisel). The joint would i…
Hey everyone, I'm dealing with a Seagull acoustic guitar which has a neck design that I'm unfamiliar with. It has a bolt on heel but a seemingly glued in neck. The customer brought it in when his child knocked it off that stand and created a gap between the heel and the neck. It doesn't appear that these pieces were glued together so I'm guessing that I'm safe to just fit the heel and screw it in. I am a bit worried about a gap remainin…
There is a pocket in a block below the soundboard that a mortise fits into. It has glue on the sides and bottom that looks like epoxy. This took me four hours to removed
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I'm not sure the following applies to all Godin family guitars, but there is information online that the factory switched to this type of joint around 2006 on Seagull brand models. I can confirm that…
I've seen the Elevate Luthierie jig, and it seems simple enough. One thing I don't like about their explanation video is the handwaving around "set the joint length where you want it"...feels like even with the jig, you have to do too much measuring to make it fit exactly (or within the tolerance you want) Given I can model well enough in Fusion and have a 3D printer, feels like a challenge to take on! As far as I can see, the jig is just…
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I completely designed a elevate style jig in fusion. And have 3d printed it. Its great! If you want the files let me know
Massimiliano Monterosso Maxmonte GuitarsLoothprintTools, Spaces, Robots, and WidgetsLite
This thing had a conveniently placed hole in the neck pickup cavity that ran all the way to the end of the tenon, presumably the entry point for the long drill bit that drilled the access from pickup cavity to control cavity before the neck was originally fitted. I injected several pipettes of hot water into this hole while heating the fretboard extension area with a silicone blanket to loosen the extension from the body. Reactivated hi…
Hey Everyone- I have a Martin 000c-16 that is in bad need of a neck reset- Anyone have any experience with this particular model? It’s a mortise and tenon. Will I have more luck using steam or foam cutters? Anything to watch out for? UPDATE-So I think i’m good now. I found a in-depth write up on this model M&T reset process in the new Martin Repair Guide - by Patrick DiBurro Great book BTW- Thanks!
I haven't checked his book, but one thing I like to do is take that insert out, throw one in with a little more bite to the threads and put it in with epoxy. I also cap over the end of the tenon with…
Happy New year everyone!!! I have an LMII neck angle jig but only have the dove tail templates. Would like to try a bolt on for my next acoustic build. With LMII's unfortunate departure do you know where I can get the templates for the mortise and tenon? Is anyone making these? perhaps our friends fortunate enough to have a CNC? I tried making one for a ukelele build but with the tools I have, not confident in the accuracy. Any leads are…
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Try contacting Robie O'Brien. It is my understanding that the design came from him and he worked closely with LMI for years.
This is a Suzuki violin company 'Three S' OM-style guitar, circa 1970s. This particular instrument was sold in the Japanese domestic market (my customer purchased it in Japan) but I've seen others in circulation here in Australia so presumably some were exported too. Sides and back are laminated rosewood, the top is solid spruce. Although this ended up being a relatively standard reset, I feel like this is worth documenting as prior to…