Hub
The back of a Gibson Custom Shop Hummingbird headstock in Cherry Red, with a wedge of mahogany missing from the repaired break line.
Article Public

Hummingbird Headstock Repair

Scanning a broken headstock with the Creality Raptor, CNC-cutting a mahogany patch to the exact topology of the missing wedge, and finishing it back to Cherry Red.

Acoustic Repair 3d-scanning acoustic repair cnc colortone creality-raptor finish repair fusion 360 gibson hummingbird guitar repair headstock repair hot hide glue mahogany nitrocellulose patch shellac

I've had the Creality Raptor 3D scanner in the shop for a little while, and I'm slowly finding ways to take advantage of its unique capabilities. Here's one that came up recently.

This Hummingbird came into the shop with a broken headstock. The break was easy to re-glue, but it was missing a small wedge of mahogany.

Using the Raptor, I was able to make a detailed scan of the cavity and produce a piece with the exact topology to replace just the wood that was missing.

Scanning the cavity

The back of a Gibson Custom Shop Hummingbird headstock in Cherry Red, with a wedge of mahogany missing from the repaired break line.

The break, re-glued and missing a wedge.The break itself was easy to re-glue — but a small wedge of mahogany was gone, leaving a cavity that had to be filled with wood rather than putty.

A blue 3D mesh of the headstock cavity in Creality Scan software, viewed from one angle.

The scanned cavity in Creality Scan. 

The same 3D cavity mesh rotated to a second viewing angle in Creality Scan software.

The same scan, rotated.

Here's how the scans appear in the Creality Scan software. I've removed everything but the area I need for making the patch.

Cutting the patch

A Fusion 360 CAM screen showing the scanned cavity mesh nested in a rectangular stock block with toolpath boundaries.

The mesh imported into Fusion 360.I then imported the mesh scan into Fusion to generate a CNC toolpath. I start out with roughing passes to remove the bulk of the material, then finish with the smallest round-nose bit I can manage. In this case I went down to 0.25 mm to capture as much detail as possible.

A mahogany block clamped on a CNC machine bed with the roughing pass cut into its top face.

Roughing passes.

A CNC round-nose bit cutting the fine detail of the patch shape into the mahogany block.

The finishing pass at 0.25 mm.

Close view of the finished patch shape standing proud of the surrounding waste in the mahogany block.

The patch, cut to the topology of the cavity.

Gluing it in

The carved mahogany patch, still attached to its stock, offered up to the cavity on the headstock.

Test-fitting the patch.With the patch done, I removed it from the larger block and glued it in place with hot hide glue. I chose not to clamp it, worried the clamping might pull it out of alignment.

The patch block sitting in place on the back of the headstock immediately after gluing.

Seated with hot hide glue.It fit like a puzzle piece, so it was easy to feel when it was seated correctly. I pressed it in place, allowed a minute for the glue to gel, and then set it aside to dry.

The mahogany patch glued into the headstock, trimmed close but still standing proud of the surface.

The patch glued in place.

The patch cut back flush with the headstock surface, showing bare mahogany against the Cherry Red finish.

This is how the patch appeared after bringing it flush with the surface.

Finishing

With the patch leveled I began by sealing it with shellac. I then applied an oil-based grain filler made using Ian Davlin's recipe (Tru-Oil mixed with pumice and ColorTone/TransTint liquid dye). I then applied shellac tinted with ColorTone/TransTint Cherry Red to achieve the color, and clear coated with StewMac ColorTone clear nitrocellulose lacquer.

The finished patch area on the headstock, color-matched to the surrounding Cherry Red finish, viewed straight on.

The color-matched patch, straight on.

The same repaired area viewed at an angle, where the grain orientation of the patch shifts slightly in the light.

At an angle, the grain shift shows.

The repaired headstock from a third angle, the patch blending into the Cherry Red finish.

A third angle.The three views above are the same repair — the slight shift you can see is the patch's grain running differently from the surrounding mahogany, not a mismatch in color.

The final result

The completed Hummingbird headstock with tuners reinstalled, sitting on the bench.

Back together.

The finished headstock with tuners installed, viewed from the back on the bench.

The repaired area at normal viewing distance.

A final view of the completed headstock repair with the Gibson Custom Shop logo visible.

Professionally attended to.

Overall I am very happy with the results, particularly not having to remove any material for the patch. Despite my best efforts there is some color shift in the light due to differing grain orientation, but I think it looks “professionally attended to,” as Frank Ford would say.

I continue to be impressed with the Creality Raptor scanner and am getting faster at scanning and processing the files. I still have a lot to learn about it, but it is clear that it will be helpful in a variety of repairs that come through the shop.