Modified Feed Spool to have two sandpaper slots: one for 400 grit or lower and one for 600 grit or higher. Modified Take Up Spool slots to hold 600 grit and higher papers without slipping.
Updated files are available in .zip download. https://dev2.loothgroup.com/loothprint/fretsander/Images
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I'm loving the original version, can't wait to try this one out!! Thanks!!!
I’ve been speed modelling parts with the printer running 24/7 since inception. There are currently somewhere around 75-100 individual pieces modelled in my source file. Mostly only building on what I’m considering the X axis, but it’s Freeform so I’ve used them to build out Y.. anyways… Connectors, Extenders, Couplers, Links, Sleeves, Feets, Plugs, Panels, Hooks… and on and on. In a moments time, I will have a mass drop folder of Standar…
Doug Proper designed a sanding jig that supports variable concave and convex curves, described in the following Loothgroup article:
https://loothgroup.com/post-imgcap/the-variable-radius-sander/
I built one and am impressed with how it facilitates preparing bridges, braces and also allows tracing any radius using the chord formula. I made a rough measured drawing and assembly guide to share, with Doug's blessing.
First step, ma…
The Artisan Guitar Show this weekend gave me a kick in the behind to get back to more promoting of the builds I'm doing. Here's my first try doing multiply binding, and it turned out pretty well
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Thanks! I don't know if Ally from StewMac has an account here, but her talk at the AGS this past weekend gave me the motivation to get back to more content-as-marketing.
I’m a pretty recent guitar maker. When I retired in 2019, I had to keep very busy and making guitars was my answer. As time rolled on I became more and more involved (ie; anal). As I age , I realize I keep making little errors. I forget a step or don’t use the right procedure. My son, an MD, told me to do what pilots do. That is a check list in chronological order. It’s worked wonders. I think I’ve cut my error rate in half!
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About a hundred steps. Some just take a few seconds and some take all day. Like " sand back and sides to 320 grit."
Dan ErlewineLoothprintTools, Spaces, Robots, and WidgetsLite
Here’s the one I bought a few years ago after one of my buddies developed cancer in his nasal cavity due to a lifetime of soldering unprotected. Still works great pulling and filtering fumes. You can…
Hi everyone,
I'm Martino from Hub of Acoustics, a collaborative project created by luthiers for luthiers. Our goal is to explore and teach acoustic principles that are directly relevant to instrument making.
In 2026, we’ll be running four courses in different parts of the world, all focused on giving luthiers practical tools to better understand and control the acoustics of their instruments.
We’re excited to introduce our very…
I have a set of bubinga for an acoustic back, but one piece had a slight cup that made it difficult to work with for joining together. This is pre-thicknessed, with the piece at 4.5 mm thick. I tried wetting and heating it, as I do for sides, and pressed it flat during the process. I heated it to 300 degrees F, and then let it cool while pressed, and the cup got substantially worse.
I then pressed it into a reverse cup using a radius…
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To get the nice figure in Bubinga, ordinarily the board is flat sawn. That greatly increases the likelihood of cupping. If you are able to flatten out the cup enough to joint the 2 pieces and thickn…