Hi, I am still a little confused by the new look of the forum, hope this is the right place to ask. Which fretwire would you recommend for a refret of this 70s LP? The current frets are 2.75mm wide, but dressed down to 0,35mm height. I have heard storys about frets that are this low but never seen in real life before :-) (0.108" wide and 0.014" height). Thank you in advance :-)
Well, Jescar makes a .108" wide by .051" tall but....that's pretty tall. I have a customer who has between 30-40 Les Paul's at any given time. I have refretted a few of his Norlan era guitars with the D…
I am repairing a damaged Stella parlor guitar. The original top was birch, plain sawn at 0.100 inches thick, ladder braced with multiple beefy braces and irreparably split, warped and generally separated from the sides. I want to keep the instrument ladder braced with a movable bridge and upgraded tailpiece, all firsts for me. I would be grateful for input on 2 issues. 1. The new top is Adirondack spruce that I’ve reduced to about 0.110…
I don't have much to add but I am working on the exact same guitar at the moment and had a question. How did you get the neck off? I'm doing one of my first few neck removals on this and it isn't seem…
Have an electric archtop that has a .012" backbow strung with 12-48s with truss rod completely loosened. 3 piece maple neck with a Ziricote fingerboard...
Any tips or recommendations to straighten this neck would be appreciated... Currently trying humidity (in the case).
Thank you!
David O'
PPP6 replies
6 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
Hi Tom and John. We're trying to slip the glue joint and heat the lignin in the fingerboard. Lignin is a natural glue in wood that holds the cell structure together and acts much like glue we use and w…
All - looking for recommendations on overall approach for repairing this nasty side crack right at the edge of the tail block. My initial thought is that either the top or the back needs to come off in order to properly glue and clamp the main split.
Thanks in advance.
Images
I use a file or a sanding block. I fit the new side by pulling sandpaper (like on a neck reset) to start and then finish with a little bit of chalk and futzing. You could pull the tailblock inlay and…
Good morning to all - I have another skill building question - picked up another cheapo electric guitar to practice repairs on. I didn't see the big dent, but figured its an opportunity to practice another type of repair. big chunks of polyurethane finish are gone and the bit that's left has a hairline crack around the bottom. I'm thinking to use wood filler to fill in the missing chunks, and want to know if its best to remove the piec…
I don't know, but I did see enough to consider how to best handle it before I start the repair. I can see that the glueboost might be a good way to approach that hairline crack, but who knows what is l…
Hi all, new to nut slot work world, please can you help me with this mystery?
fret levelling, neck relief and string action adjustment all completed to Fender 9.5" radius spec. very happy with that. the next step: 0.011” High E string’s nut slot was a bit low.
I used Dave Johnson’s (MI Guitar Craft Academy) “q-tip slot raising method”: the pulled cotton strand, plus extra thin CA glue, to fill the slot, then trim it off once dry,…
P5 replies
5 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
i always use a nut file that is the closest size up from the string gauge. i used a 13 gauge file for an 11 gauge string, and 16 gauge file for a 14 gauge string
Brett Bailey Contriver GuitarsLoothprintRepair and Restoration
A friend of mine inherited his great-grandfather's National tenor resonator guitar/banjo (I'm not sure which it is). He would like to have it in playing condition. He asked me for a recommendation as to where he could get that done. Fellow Looths, please give me recommendations. It appears to be in pretty good shape. He will ship it where ever it needs to go. There are photos below.
Chris Jenkins
Images
Hi,
Any recommendations for scratch safe and nitro safe bench coverings?
Also the porous sanding mats compatible with vacuum tables with same nitro safe properties?
My material science education is low in regards to stuff that will and won't react to nitro.
Thank you.
Can anyone recommend a good substitute for Johnson's Paste Wax? We're down to about 1/3 of a can, and it appears that it's no longer being manufactured, and I'm not too keen on paying some of the prices I've seen around online.
PPP5 replies
5 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
We use it on fingerboards and bridges for conditioning. It also repels glue when you're doing a refret (just don't let it in the slots).
I am restoring an old Supertone with a thickened and heavily alligatored finish. The finish softens quickly with acetone, and it looks like it has had an overspray. I would like to keep the staining on the oak back and sides, and to preserve the decal on the headstock. The top I would like to strip and sand.
The questions are:
1. What more do I need to know about the finish?
2. How should I remove the finish or at least thin/smooth…
I don’t see much evidence of overspray. The headstock looks to be in decent shape. I’d just leave it unless the finish is actively falling off. One thing you might try on the top before refin is Mohaw…
Hello, Apologies if this has been answered before, I couldn’t find any posts covering it. I’m looking to get started with an airbrush for small finish repairs. AI is telling me to get a Fengda 186 with 3L tank and a Harder & Steenbeck brush (not cheap!). But would appreciate recommendations for a budget setup from actual human people also. Thanks!
most cheap ones will do you fine, what medium are you using? Nitro? 2k? Water based? 1k? you probably don't need to view more expensive options unless you're looking to get into detailed work. Iwata…
Hey all - I've got a couple Gibson headstock repair investments that I'd like to practice inserting splines for reinforcement (or I may go the backstrap method..tbd).
Do you have any jig recommendations or preferences? I've only seen the G&W option (which looks awesome), several ebay knock-offs and lots of DIY jigs.
I welcome your feedback. Thanks and all the best, Chris
I think this is my favorite. It's not my favorite technique overall, but this version, with the long splines that extend WAY past the transition of the neck is the best. https://mcconvilleguitars.blo…
Almost a year ago I complete a certificate program and became a journeyman luthier/ guitar tech. Looking to continue my education and I was wondering if there were any weekend workshops or anything similar in the north east/ tri state area that anyone would recommend? Thanks in advance! -Vinny
I'm fixing a cedar top guitar with a big bulge and a bad bridge plate. Ideally I'd like a replacement plate with optimal stiffness in both directions and a thickness between 0.090 - 0.100". After I flatten the top as much as possible, should I: 1. use plain sawn maple 2. use quarter sawn maple (if so, any recommendations for sourcing?) 3. make up a cross grain maple laminate with two 0.050 thick pieces Thanks for any advice, searched the sit…
PPP7 replies
7 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
I was thinking of clamping it between 2 boards perhaps with a slight radius to counteract the top?
Before I hack into the Yamaha, I would like to get the opinion of the experts on a method of steaming the upper end of the guitar and ‘pressing’ the neck down to adjust the angle back to factory. There are several you-tubers that have tried and recommend it. My novice intuition is that even though it may work, wont the steaming of other areas of the body such as upper braces, etc, end up weakening the construction (glue stability) to…
PPP4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
Thanks for all of the inputs. I am going to order the foam cutter package. I will try to post some pics of the FG200J. In the meantime, I just got done doing a neck reset of a crappy Fender that ha…
Hi Everyone, I was given this guitar to harvest parts from and then throw into a fire due to a partial break in the neck. When I pull the neck to close the break the action is perfect so I'd like to fix it and then donate it. Can anyone show me what clamps to use to keep it closed after I glue it? Also, would you recommend strait wood glue or would you water it down somewhat to allow it to seep in further? Thanks in advance!
What kind of cauls do you have at your disposal ? I would thing a radiused sanding block and an F-Clamp would get this back together readily. As far as the glue, you could start with watered down Tite…