The Hub

Hello estimable friends, A very long-term friend of mine left us on Christmas Eve after a long illness. His sister tasked me with evaluating, restoring, and selling his stuff. Today I'm preparing to restore a 2008 Longhorn GOM to its original EMGs. Pulling out the humbuckers I see a Pearly Gates and… what looks like an original short-magnet PAF. Correct shape brass screws for the bobbins, UV light confirms sticker and tape, tooling mark…

Hey all, I’m curious to know people’s general thoughts on the appropriate or ideal saddle height after a reset. And, when to replace a bridge that’s been shaved down. I know there are a lot of factors (for me anyhow) and this question could open a whole can of worms when it comes to the specifics of the guitar, its age, style of bridge and desired sound. I’m providing an example I encountered recently, but would also like to know people…

In the process of evaluating the repairs needed on this guitar I checked to see if the truss rod was working. There is hole in the transverse brace where you would normally insert a truss rod, but all I see is the end of a metal bar with a smallish hole in the center. I tried several allen wrenches that would fit in the hole, but nothing seems to grab. Did they really eliminate the adjustable truss rod on this vintage reproduction? Here'…

I just posted this question over on the patreon app chat which I think might not be the best place, so I'm posting here. Apologies for the redundancy! The Patreon app confuses me a bit. This is a friend's Harmony H162 I'm evaluating. Needs bridge reglued both otherwise is in good shape. It's either had a neck reset before or just doesn't need it as action is low, 3.5/64" on low E with .007" relief. There are two areas I can slip a .006"…

I use markup sheets for evaluations and couldn't find a generic version for parlor size. This is based on a Martin 00 but the form is sufficient to me. I'll be doing more of these if you think of something you'd like for me to outline. Link below.