Hey All! I hope everyone has been loothing and living as well as possible. I'm checking in to ask for an opinion.
I have been asked to fix or improve some top sinking/splitting of a Mahogany top 1930ish L-0 that sits between the bridge and the junction of the X-brace. It's showing signs of wanting to crack further but neither seems to be all the way through the top. I have removed the bridge plate cleanly and have tried wetting the…
Hi folks. I have a Martin DX1 in for crack repairs. I was feeling around and discovered two huge cedar plates glued to the top. Many gluey fingerprints and spots which leads me to believe they aren’t stock but want to make sure before I remove them. I looked online for a bracing diagram but no luck. Does anyone have any info on this? Much appreciated !
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I think it was a ham fisted attempt to address the cracks. I just want to make sure that it wasn't since this model was a ham fisted attempt a going green like Taylor. Laminated neck, bottom and sid…
Good morning to all - I have another skill building question - picked up another cheapo electric guitar to practice repairs on. I didn't see the big dent, but figured its an opportunity to practice another type of repair. big chunks of polyurethane finish are gone and the bit that's left has a hairline crack around the bottom. I'm thinking to use wood filler to fill in the missing chunks, and want to know if its best to remove the piec…
I don't know, but I did see enough to consider how to best handle it before I start the repair. I can see that the glueboost might be a good way to approach that hairline crack, but who knows what is l…
Hello everyone,
I hope you're doing good. I'm very much a new guitar repair enthusiast, any advice or feedback would really appreciated.
I'm working on this Yamaha FG410A, as you can see, it's in rough shape. The guitar lived in a case in a storage container since the 90s.
The guitar was really dry when I got it, so I started my slowly introducing moisture. I removed the frets and then put the guitar in a bag, with a hygrometer…
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I think your approach makes sense. You will learn much from this project. I am sure you will discover creative ways to fix problems. I have used the saw dust CA glue method to fix divots in the fin…
Hi all, I'm new here. I've been playing guitars for ~15 years and recently started as a technician at a music production school in London, where part of my job is maintaining the guitars.
I picked up this 50s parlor nylon the other day and it's in bad shape but I don't know how to go about repairing it.
The main issue is the bridge. The guitar was kept high strung and the bridge has twisted and lifted off slightly at the base. T…
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So now put the iron on low, heat the bridge for at least 5 minutes, then take it and the insulating cardboard off, and see if you can begin to work palette knives under the bridge. If it's not relativ…
I have repaired numerous top crack on this instrument built by a customer at a guitar building camp. The bridge was off and warped. That has been addressed. After gluing with hide glue and splining the crack these top two did not closed as much as I would have liked. The bigger is about 1/32 at the widest and the other about 1/64. The crack is tight at the bottom. If I can help it I would like to fill it rather than spline it as I have…
I am pretty good at touch up on darker to med woods and air brushing some solid color touchups on electrics but as you said spruce tops with gloss are near impossible. I was hoping to maybe clean it…
I recently picked up a used custom guitar that the seller said he bought in Vietnam Nam many years ago. I bought it as a wall hanger due to the wonderful Mother of Pearl work, especially on the back. It was very apparent that the top on this instrument was sunken at least 3/8 of an inch, as the weird bridge setup was heightened to the max and there was barely any action height. Once I took it apart and removed the foam inside, I was…
Hey, I've just had a go at repairing a cracked Epiphone Hummingbird and it all went well except burning through the colour of the finish when sanding it up to a gloss. Any ideas for patching this up?
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I had another pass over the micromesh pads on some particularly rough spots and did manage to get to a good state. It would make sense that Rogue Grit has paid me a visit on some of the lower grit san…
I’m curious to hear from everyone in the trenches, how they manage repairs they really don’t want to do. At this point I am offering customer work again to a small group of people who know me and have worked with me over the years. I’ve had a few people email that I don’t know, being a little pushy wanting to know price and turnaround time because “I need this by the xxth of the month”. I’ve simply offered them a referral to another sh…
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i prob turn about 70% of repairs down but i tell them sorry the building business is my priority & truthfully id rather leave les paul breaks , bridge reglue , pickup swap etc to people that do it mor…
This repair came into the shop on Thursday. The crack appears to go most of the way through the neck but hasn't opened up at all. What is the current best practice to address cracks like this? Shout out to @member as the resident Taylor expert. Thanks in advance for your help.
If they do not want to pay for a new neck, and are up for a simple repair: prying it open a hair, inserting glue with a syringe, and clamping up is a fairly easy fix. I would use Old Brown Glue, as it…
I’ve been building electric for a few years but decided to make an acoustic this time. I have some German spruce panels I was going to use for the top. While running it through my drum sander to dimension it, I noticed that both panels have matching 6-8” cracks so the original blank must’ve had a split pre resawing. Would I still have good results if I glue the panels and move on or should I buy a new top set? (I can’t return what I have…
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Thanks for talking me down. That’s the right decision. Even though it’s my ‘learning’ build for my own use I need to build it like I would for one of my electric customers. The cheap in me almost won.…
This jazz bass has come in with a cracked and separated fingerboard near the nut. I believe this is an early Bi-Flex but am not entirely sure or familiar with them. The truss rod is functional and tightens up when turned. Top of the walnut plug is missing and the washer appears to be crooked or dislodged. Not sure what purpose that washer serves. This is probably the thinnest bass neck I’ve ever seen and it’s no wonder that this fingerb…
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Good call Ian, I can definitely get strings on there. I suspect it won’t do well under tension. It’s incredibly thin, neck has pretty much a shallow v profile. Hardly any fingerboard too. Might need a…
So this 310 came into the shop and had a pretty gnarly crack that splinters some toward the lower left bout. Going to do a crack repair with the TJ Thompson crack corrector and some hide glue. The issue I'm inquiring about is the finish is delaminating around the area. I'm curious as to what type of finish it is. Seems a bit flexible and spongy to be a nitro alone. There's shards of finish missing, and dirt has found its way underneath…
(Just to set expectations, I bought this for the sole purpose of learning. Not a client project) I got this Martin D28-12 in destroyed condition, after an airline did something awful. As I see it: - Top cracks - Back cracks - Top & side separation with some broken off kerfing - Brace ejected When I was looking at the pictures online pre-purchase, I thought I might take the neck off and re-top it, or at the very least, take the top off and fix…
So, I made a modular clamp based on the split clamp idea. Started on a prototype about two months ago and finished it. What I was aiming for was a clamp that I could use on the BOTTOM of acoustic guitars as well as tops to clamp cracks, cleats, braces, patches etc. Especially a clamp that would access small openings like "F" holes, small sound holes etc. Essentially a way to get a clamp to areas not accessible to jacks, wedges etc.,…