I'm fast approaching the finish coating of 2 acousitcs. The sitka spruce tops are really bright. I'd like to tone them down a little and have been scouring the web for methods. Seems like adding amber toner in either the sand sealer or more likely the first set of nitro lacquer coats might be the the ticket. I see Stewmac has a Colortone stain called "Vintage Amber" that can be mixed into the nitro. Anybody have expirience with this pro…
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Hi Gerry, I recommend spraying a sealer chow it a light scuff and then one more sealer coat. If you are using lacquer, thin some 50% by volume and add TransTint or Colortone. Same dye and some of the…
Hi everyone! I'm trying to wrap my head around this problem. I was doing some fret on a throwaway neck and found a couple of uneven frets in the middle of the neck. (I made sure to seat them down before levelling too!) While levelling, I came across an issue where the first few frets and the last few frets were being sanded down before the middle frets. I did make sure the neck was straight with a notched straight edge and the StewMac n…
The notched straight edges isn't the best tool for finding the starting position before a fret leveling. Primarily what you need to know is, without the truss rod being either completely loose or rea…
Hi, I have a 1950's Gibson LG-3 that's had some poor work done to the spruce under the area of the bridge where the spruce has pulled away and or been sanded excessively. It's missing about .020-0.30 thou of spruce and I'm wondering/looking for advice about how to go about splicing in a thin piece of spruce before I re-glue the bridge. Please see pictures attached. My main questions are: glues for the patch, should the patch be mitered…
When faced with a similar job recently, I chose to glue the patch in place with epoxy, then used hide glue to reset the bridge. The logic being that 20 years from now when someone needs to reset the…
Hi everyone - I recently ran into trouble making new nut for one of my necks that needed to be trued and re-fretted. I roughed in the nut as usual and then, with the bass guitar fully assembled and strung up, I started cutting the slots to depth. I use the StewMac digital nut slot depth gauge and have had good results in the past. I marked the nut's lowest points (radiused) using the guitar nut scribe tool (first time using this!) and c…
That's actually not how that tool was intended to be used. That is essentially plotting a like to the top of the fret. With a bass, you would need much more than that. When James and I came up with th…
Santa heard I had a challenging year so he got me a 3d printer for Christmas. I’ve been printing like crazy, learning the machine. This has resulted in a bunch of tools that either don’t work for me, were attempts at mixing colors, or have very minor printing blemishes. Two lots up for grabs to anyone in the US who wants either. I’ll mail to you for free. First one to claim each gets it :) First lot has parametric nut and saddle sanders…
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Lot #1 still available. I'll likely be adding to the lot as I print and eff up but still make usable prints.
I recently picked up a Sterling Atlas 12 string that is in excellent shape except for some bellying, which once I get into setting action, may determine if I need to add a ‘bridge doctor’ to remediate some of it. However, I noticed that the saddle (adjustable but set to lowest point) has no curvature and there is not much down pressure on the center sets of strings which is causing some buzzing. My question is this (my first 12 string p…
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Thanks again to those that lended their wisdom. Bridge doctor just came in plus some bone saddle blanks so will get ready to tackle that project in near future.
Hello everyone, I use a Stewmac japanese fretsaw (which produces .023" wide fretslots, matching the width of the tang of stewmac wire) to recut my slots on refrets. The saw does a good job making the slots deeper, but struggles to make them wider and binds like crazy throughout the process. I think that is due to it not having enough (or any) set, so in theory it only cut downwards and does a poor job removing material from the slot wall…
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My fretboards are done with a table saw & correct SM blade, if i need to touch them up after radius i go between the jap saw & regular one sm sells. yellow wax to stop them from sticking when cutting…
@member@member Starting the discussion here to get the planning underway. I am presenting at Cremona next year, so I thought I would use the opportunity to do a dry run during this event. Topics - 1. Modeling and 3d Printing Simplified for Guitar Repair Barbarians. 2. Touching up Martin Mahogany. 3. Color and Material Theory Simplified for Guitar Repair Barbarians.
I've only built a handful of necks and most of them have been roasted maple fretboards. This time around I am using a beautiful and incredibly stiff/hard piece of ebony. I am doing a light hammering in of the frets to get them seated and then using the hand-held vice clamps from Stewmac with the correct fretboard radius to push them down evenly the rest of the way. This process works just fine on roasted maple. It's just a softer wood t…
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Thanks all. I widened the slots with a bigger blade and deepened them a bit. It's to the point where they kinda slide in and I'm using CA glue to get them all the way there. Hammering them in just doe…
I'm looking for the mandolin/violin side bending extension that StewMac used to sell and recently discontinued. Does anyone have one that they don't need and would like to sell?
I bought a used stewmac Fret Jaws but the black part that holds the fret inserts is missing the screw. I think it should be an Allen head grub screw. Does anyone know the size of that screw so I can get a replacement? Thanks.
Just joined the group and have only built 3 guitars so far but just ran into trouble on my latest project. Long story short: I built a '57 LP Jr that came out fantastic but the neck was set incorrectly and was nearly unplayable. I cut off the body and made a new one and applied the burst and a few coats of clear before gluing in the salvaged neck. To finish up the neck joint with a bit more black, I dusted off my 20 yo Paasche airbru…
I've seen the Elevate Luthierie jig, and it seems simple enough. One thing I don't like about their explanation video is the handwaving around "set the joint length where you want it"...feels like even with the jig, you have to do too much measuring to make it fit exactly (or within the tolerance you want) Given I can model well enough in Fusion and have a 3D printer, feels like a challenge to take on! As far as I can see, the jig is just…
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I completely designed a elevate style jig in fusion. And have 3d printed it. Its great! If you want the files let me know
I've got a 70s Martin D12-20 12-string on my bench (slotted headstock), it needs new tuners - the original tuners have several bent worms. The only 6-on-a-plate tuners I can find are the Golden Age from StewMac. The spacing looks right, but the Golden Age posts are about 1/8-inch shorter according to the specs on StewMac, 1-inch vs the 1 1/8-inch on the originals. Will that be a problem?
I didn't see the replies... never got an email alert like I thought I would. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Thanks for your input everyone. I ordered the StewMac GoldenAge tuners. They fit perfectly, even the mounting scre…
Is there a Pneumatic Fret Tang Nipper out there or did anybody ever combined a Tang Nipper with a pneumatic Plier? Or maybe it is possible to take the Stewmac Tang Nipper (i like the new version) and modify it? I always make 20-40 Sets of frets ready so i can make a lot of fretboards ready in one day. But after a while my hand really hurts. Thank you
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It’s possible I saw warmoth may have one? I saw one in a video and forgot the manufacturer. It’s a terrifying idea for a tool but often wished I had one.
Nikki Walters Nikki’s Guitar ShopArticleRepair and RestorationLite
What kind of pore filler do you use? I usually use aqua coat, shellac/pumice or stewmac water based mahogany grain filler. Interested in other methods, including zpoxy.
I have similar thoughts to what you shared. On mahogany, aqua coat looks great. Unfortunately it left white residue in pores when I tried it on walnut. Now I’m curious about gluboost, thanks for the t…