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Hello, I accidentally sawed through a binding during a refret. Any suggestions? Thanks!

I'm reading the Design book of the Gilet/Gore set (2nd Edition) and ran across something that surprised me. Under "Top bracing layout - guidelines" (Section 4.4.8, pp 4-52) Gore writes, "Brace ends that are housed into the linings stiffen the edge of the soundbard considerably and so constrain its mobility. Unless you are chasing a particular effect, it is generally not very beneficial to house the lower bout braces into the linings." My…

Hello everyone, I use a Stewmac japanese fretsaw (which produces .023" wide fretslots, matching the width of the tang of stewmac wire) to recut my slots on refrets. The saw does a good job making the slots deeper, but struggles to make them wider and binds like crazy throughout the process. I think that is due to it not having enough (or any) set, so in theory it only cut downwards and does a poor job removing material from the slot wall…

Looking for some guidance here – I have a 1973 Jazz Bass with maple fretboard and fretboard binding in for a re-fret. The finish is of course built up thick and crackly along the frets, and although they’re not seated too nicely, the first few came out really tough and chippy even after scoring the finish really well. I’m aware that Fenders were fretted sideways until 1982, but because of the binding, pushing them out sideways is not an…

New Youtube video tutorial on how to thoroughly repair Martin Binding failures.

I had someone comment on my Instagram page that they are having trouble finding anyone to do a Martin binding repair for them. I told him I'd post something here. Please comment if you would do that and I'll send your info to him.

Im going to attach some photos of a 000-style guitar from Potomac(I believe an Eastman product) that has some top cracks and deformation around the neck block from what I assume to be a shift of the neck block. How do you all approach repairs like this. Im thinking that pulling the neck and somehow pushing the block back into place from the inside is about the right course of action, but if anyone has some advice, Id appreciate it! In th…

Question for the group.. Let's say you start with a new nut blank and leave it too tall, but cut the slots to the proper depth. So you are left with a scenario where the strings are fairly buried in the nut (not protruding from the top), would that affect playability or just potentially cause binding issues and look bad? Thanks, James

So, I've seen people having to deal with crappy binding glue on newer Martin's. I have a D35 at 50 (2015) and the purfling has separated from the guitar body all the way around both the top and bottom of the guitar due to heat. Not only that but the binding has separated from the purfling in spots. The glue is still tacky and it's almost like a thick stain as it has impregnated the top and sides, making it impossible to completely rem…

In the process of evaluating the repairs needed on this guitar I checked to see if the truss rod was working. There is hole in the transverse brace where you would normally insert a truss rod, but all I see is the end of a metal bar with a smallish hole in the center. I tried several allen wrenches that would fit in the hole, but nothing seems to grab. Did they really eliminate the adjustable truss rod on this vintage reproduction? Here'…

Hello! This is my current build! https://www.instagram.com/p/DMO6PqXRAkg/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MWdhbW4wdG51bDJ4ZQ== "Here’s a quick check-in on the two guitars I’m currently working on. The bodies are getting ready for binding(arm bevel too!), while the neck is in the middle of headstock design. For the tiger-patterned guitar, I’m planning to inlay Jakho-do (Korean tiger-and-magpie painting) with mother-of-pearl. The other one…

After installing purfling and bindings I noticed a black dot on one of the maple lines— and right at the florentine point! It’s not sanding out. Bummer. As I get close to finish prep does anyone have recommendations on acrylic touch up paint SKUs that work well with maple? These maple purflings happen to be from Gurian Instruments, for what that’s worth. Also, if anyone has an idea of what this dot is and how it got there I’d love to he…

Brazilian rosewood back and sides, Sitka spruce top with heavy bear claw, curly koa binding, Brazilian bridge/fretboard/headplate

Im going to be starting my 6th acoustic build soon. One issue I continue to have is low spots on the sides. I use an LMI bender with the spring steel slats that LMI provided (they are pretty stout). One observation, sometimes there is a bit of rebound in the sides as I take them out of the bender. I sort of force them into the mold to glue the neck and tail blocks. I’m wondering if that may be where the issue is occurring. After removing…

G'day...I have a nice old Burny LP in that is showing some rot in the fingerboard binding, with some on the body binding as well... I'm looking to stabilise things for now (I understand that eventually, it will all turn to dust)...thinking about: acetone applied sparingly to cracks, Duco cement (not really sure here...maybe try to just adhere crack edges), or CA (ultra thin, wicked into cracks)... Very grateful for any suggestions.... Stev…

Tenor Ukulele recently sent out. It's my first time selling through a store, and I'm pretty nervous. Top is redwood. Back and sides Oregon Myrtle. Fretboard and bridge are Mun ebony. Binding is Koa.

A client has asked me to build an acoustic guitar using crelicam ebony for the back and sides that he is getting form Stewmac. I have heard it's challenging to bend, and this will be an OM so the waist is pretty tight. Any thoughts or suggestions for bending these sides? I use a homemade bending machine modelled after LMI's latest design (may they rest in peace) and I have had good success bending rosewood, walnut, mahogany, and pau fer…