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I added measurements for the Yamaha FG red label FG 75's some time ago. I Keep getting these in for neck resets. I wanted to add photo's from the first one because they show that the dovetail joint does not align with the first fret beyond the neck/side to make folks aware so that one knows to slightly angle the drill to hit the pocket. I do the same on the holes drilled at the fret at the side/neck fret. I slightly angle the drill…

A Gagliano Jumbo probably made by Kay in the 1950's. It looks like this had a previous neck reset based on the shims and some sloppy chisel work. I removed the 14th and 15th frets because I had read that these might have a straight tenon. I didn't need to drill any holes for heat, as the spruce shims both split in half after the fretboard extension was released. The dovetail is about 11mm long, the pocket is 14mm deep, and the 15th fret…

I just pulled the neck off a Vega Arthur Godfrey Solo Lute baritone ukulele. It was pretty easy. First I heated and loosened the short fretboard extension. I already knew the neck was attached with a glued butt joint and small straight tenon. The picture show where I drilled three holes for foam cutter heaters. I only used the two on either side of the tenon, at the 16th fret (Note: neck joins body at 16th) and didn't need the hole at…

It's that time of the year when I start to get all paranoid on the humidity levels of my shop. It happens at this time as the heating seems to send my hygrometers out of whack and it's quite difficult to keep things stable. So far i've been relying on keeping a 45% constant humidity in an automated system I built on Domoticz (similar to Home Assistant), which control a humidifier and dehumidifier. I'm not that confident i got this nailed…

Hello All! My first post and I'm very happy to be here and share the highs and lows of this pony ride. After years of bending sides on a hot pipe or bending machines belonging to 'other people', I finally built myself a bending machine. Functionally it is great, but the result on some test material was far from great. See pictures attached. What you see here is a doug fir 'test side' that certainly came out guitar shaped, but oh my, what…

Hello fellow looths! I recently had a customer come in with a '71 Fender neck that is a fusion of the 60s and 70s style. It has a veneer fretboard, no skunkstripe, 4 screwholes, 70s style tuners, 70s headstock logo, and it seems like it has a poly finish on the back of the neck, and nitro (with cracking) on the front of the headstock. Can anyone tell me if this combination is possible or could it be fake? Another thing is, even without th…

A friend of mine gave me his locally built mandolin for a neck reset. The glue in the dovetail has started to fail, and left a large gap at the bottom and a separation from the fingerboard and body. I've taken my brownstone and tried to heat the joint up enough to soften things up, but to no avail. I have no idea what type or where the joint is exactly. There are some indicators that this instrument was built with several flaws in the c…

Hey all, I’m curious to know people’s general thoughts on the appropriate or ideal saddle height after a reset. And, when to replace a bridge that’s been shaved down. I know there are a lot of factors (for me anyhow) and this question could open a whole can of worms when it comes to the specifics of the guitar, its age, style of bridge and desired sound. I’m providing an example I encountered recently, but would also like to know people…

So, I've seen people having to deal with crappy binding glue on newer Martin's. I have a D35 at 50 (2015) and the purfling has separated from the guitar body all the way around both the top and bottom of the guitar due to heat. Not only that but the binding has separated from the purfling in spots. The glue is still tacky and it's almost like a thick stain as it has impregnated the top and sides, making it impossible to completely rem…

I had a client dropped off his Suhr JM Classic for a pot replacement yesterday. The fretboard extension hangs over the pickguard on these a little so I flipped it over to loosen the neck screws a tad. I found what looked like 3 missing neck screws and only one screwed in place. The one screwed in place was bright and shiny. I removed that screw and the neck would not budge at all. I focused a pin light into the neck pocket holes to find…

And another one — putting it in general as while this is an acoustic, the particulars are more relevant to the brand than the type of guitar. This is a very early Hofner Committee (serial 20XX, maybe 1954?) that has suffered some minor blunt force trauma. The mounting posts for one of the tuning keys snapped. While repros may be available, I assume with something this weird and vintage repair is probably more feasible and affordable. Bu…

I have three aluminum Ukulele molds for sale. I was surprised to find them in a thrift store here in Athens, OH. I bought them with plans to refurbish them. They are heated with propane or gas via copper pipe with small holes similar to gas stove burners. i had planned to use new piping but would probably have tried what’s there to see how it worked (being safety conscious of course) The molds are very well made, and I assume are cast alu…

Hey all, I have a customer that brought a mid 2000's Gold Jazzmaster to get a suggestion on what to do to the neck of it. On the Low E side of the neck it has about .08 relief, while the treble side is at .05 relief, and the truss rod is maxed out. He has had several other well known luthiers in the area work on it, one of them tried a fret dress and a setup that only fixed it for about a month, and the other one heated the neck to add…

Here’s some more pencil solderer/copper wire pics. All neck pulls were clean and successful.

Howdy, folks! I'm playing around with an old Harmony Stella, and when I couldnt quite get the neck off with heat (still a newb here), I just sawed it off. Underneath was a delightful green colored dovetail. Is that pressure treated wood or over the decades mold just got into the wood that deep?

I'm building my first BRW guitar, started with the back, pictured below. What do you normally thickness BRW sides to? I guess they can probably be a bit under 2 mm, but I don't want to overdo it in case there is some slight deformation that needs to be sanded later. I bend manually on a heating iron if that makes any difference.