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The photo shows the x-brace in a Seagull SMS guitar (predates the S6 model I think). I've reglued the loose brace end and want to add some reinforcement. Normally I prefer a wood cap over the joint but you can see the top of the braces is pretty narrow. I have some muslin cloth I can use, but not sure I can get it to form tightly over the two braces. Looking for some suggestions.

Hello Friends, I've had a vintage Epiphone acoustic stored at the shop for almost two years and it's about time to wrap it up. That never happens, LOL. It has a few loose braces, which is a repair I've done in the past. The problem with this one is that no matter how I jack up the loose braces from the inside, some parts of some braces simply do not move enough to come in contact with the soundboard. This is happening in a couple…

I am looking for new ideas on tools or methods for cleaning under partially loose braces to insure a good glue joint. In the past I've tried flossing with sandpaper, using the metal cutting edge from a wax paper box, maybe some extra thin files. In this job, one of the loose braces is up against the bridge plate, so it's impossible to pass something all the way through. The loose parts are marked with the red ellipses.

I watched the Guild F-20 video (https://dev2.loothgroup.com/groups/repair-and-restoration/forum/topic/cracker-x-braces-on-guild-f20/#post-60310) with great interest since I've been working on a Gibson L-3 with a similar problem. A little back story - The original repair request was to address a small pickguard crack on the sound hole side. After peeking inside, I saw 5 loose brace ends on the treble side. Still a pretty standard repair…

I work in guitar repair for over 20 years and this strange buzz happen only 3 times and i really going crazy. Five years ago a all parts strat neck in G string, change string, leveling frets twice thinking i made a mistake, in some point i made a rudimentar neck jig to tried to repair that neck. Work in that guitar for 3 weeks and string heigth like 3.5mm and yeat, buzzing with not so hard picking just the G, even in other tuning like F…

Does anyone offer repair of guitar cases? I've done a few and it's kinda fun (traditional wooden cases only). With the prices of guitar cases going up, I'm wondering if there might be a market. They are less of a throw-away item at $200 per case. I've had three people ask in the past few weeks: Broken latch, missing handle, loose lining. We replaced the handle with one of the buckle-on handles. If so, Any training available that you…

Hi Everyone, I hope everyone is having a great weekend! I have some wiring that has come loose in an acoustic guitar as the adhesive attached to the wire hangers has failed after about 1.5-2 years. Normally I would just pop in new ones but I'm wondering if there is a stronger adhesive that can be added instead of just relying on the sticky tape that comes with what is in the included pictures. Thanks in advance!

In the process of evaluating the repairs needed on this guitar I checked to see if the truss rod was working. There is hole in the transverse brace where you would normally insert a truss rod, but all I see is the end of a metal bar with a smallish hole in the center. I tried several allen wrenches that would fit in the hole, but nothing seems to grab. Did they really eliminate the adjustable truss rod on this vintage reproduction? Here'…

i have a 2010 g&l asat bluesboy with a loose barrel jack. which is to say, when a cable is gently unplugged the jack comes out of the body. there is no nut on the inside of the control cavity to hold the jack in place - it looks like the wood itself is threaded. the jack barely protrudes into the control cavity so i don’t see an obviously good way to get a washer and nut on it. any ideas outside of enlarging the hole and installing a jac…

Hi Folks. I have a new Gibson L-00 retro on the bench. It came in because the saddle had pulled forward and was extremely loose in the slot. the saddle was a narrow affair measuring out at 3/32. It had buzzing issues as well because saddle was low and neck angle is actually high (straight edge is 5/32 above bridge). Previous looth tried to correct by shimming saddle but recommended me for bridge work. I re-slotted the saddle slot wi…

Hi Folks, I'm new here so I appreciate any input upfront! I had this guitar come through the shop and I've run up against something for the first time. The neck needs a little relief but when I went to adjust the truss rod the screw was already completely loose thus I couldn't perform that action. I tightened it just enough to get the truss rod nut to connect to the truss rod without making an actual adjustment to the neck in the wrong dire…

Hello everybody! I've got a newer Martin Special 16 (all solid wood with matte back/sides and gloss top) in for some loose braces. Here in Houston I'm used to dealing with acoustics damaged by over-humidification or extreme heat rather than what I often see addressed in the group by you wonderful folks in your colder (normal) climates. My customer had this guitar shipped to him from Wisconsin, and I suspect it was exposed to some extreme…

A customer brought a Martin D28 in for an assessment and below is the main issues with the guitar. It has two loose braces and two warped/broken "stringers" along the back of the guitar. In addition, the guitar is a candidate for a neck reset, although I think I can possibly kick that can down the road, and my main concern is the loose braces. I'm wondering what the best way to repair something like this is? I don't have much experience…

So this 46' J-45 came to me at a very very low price as it needs extensive repair. Much that I am confident in, cracks, bridge/bridge plate issues, loose braces and the like. There are however a few points that id like the groups opinions on. The neck angle is pretty great and theres a good amount of fret, however, at some point in its past, someone shaved down the neck to a dangerous point, and the back of the neck has toms cracks along…

Getting the fingerboard extension off was the hardest part. It required a 1/2 hour at about 230F (measured on the fingerboard surface). The neck join came loose in about 15 minutes using heat sticks and injecting a few cc"s of water every 5 minutes.