I added measurements for the Yamaha FG red label FG 75's some time ago. I Keep getting these in for neck resets. I wanted to add photo's from the first one because they show that the dovetail joint does not align with the first fret beyond the neck/side to make folks aware so that one knows to slightly angle the drill to hit the pocket. I do the same on the holes drilled at the fret at the side/neck fret. I slightly angle the drill…
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Yeah I've done almost or around 10 of these Red Labels. Most people think it's not possible and might be epoxy. Not the case, right! Hide glue, dovetails totally doable. I think I posted some picks ea…
Hey lads I'm in a bit of an indecisive spot with a 70's yamaha acoustic refret. Pulled the original frets and the tang is .018" with no barbs just divots pressed into the lower edge. The slot is measuring .018". Struggled to find any suitable sized fretwire in stock in the UK that match what the customer wants that'll fit in the slot. Sintoms looked ideal but couldn't find any, so went with something with 0.20 tang and they're not pressi…
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Yes, a dremel is not ideal. Ideally you want an air tool with tighter tolerances. Do you have any pawn shops or junk around your shop? Practice on something, you will get a feel for it.
Hey everyone, recently I've been getting more requests for neck resets from customers, and up until this point I haven't been offering them since I don't have the practical experience. I'm keen to change this, and I've borrowed my fathers Harmony H167 that has seen better days. I've done an initial cleaning and assessment, the truss rod works although I may need to force it into a backbow to have a fully adjustable neck. This shouldn't…
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Also you have to take into account how much flex the top has. If you could set the neck dry then clamp it and string it up you can start the calculations about how much you to take off of the heal. In…
I just pulled the neck off a Vega Arthur Godfrey Solo Lute baritone ukulele. It was pretty easy. First I heated and loosened the short fretboard extension. I already knew the neck was attached with a glued butt joint and small straight tenon. The picture show where I drilled three holes for foam cutter heaters. I only used the two on either side of the tenon, at the 16th fret (Note: neck joins body at 16th) and didn't need the hole at…
Technically this is a repair, but I thought there would be some crossover with building, so I posted here as well. A 1950s Gretsch Town & Country Rancher 6021 is missing the two braces on either side of the sound hole (see photo). Because this is such a wide instrument (17” lower bout), I’m thinking that installing those missing braces will help with the stability of the top in addition to repairing the cracked/loose ladder braces. The…
A customer recently brought in a 1950s Gretsch Town & Country Rancher 6021. In addition to two main ladder braces being loose/cracked, it’s missing the two braces on either side of the sound hole (see photo). Because this is such a wide instrument (17” lower bout), I’m thinking that installing those missing braces will help with the stability of the top, which is pretty sunken right now. Does anyone have any photos or measurements of or…
I am working on a wall hanger that I thought would be fun to get working. It is an old Tokai. I have repaired a crack on left tuning arm. Also removed the bridge that had been badly glued on by previous owner. I am deciding if I want to put the effort into re-fretting it. I am new to Classical guitar actions, so my question is this - when you put a straight edge on the neck, where should it hit the bridge, if at all? I have learn…
For my current mandolin build, I set out to answer 2 questions: 1. Whether to use physical deflection or frequency analysis to measure stiffness, and 2. How well can I measure wood quality in rough sawn form? (T. Gore says it needs to be planed smooth and rectangular for frequency analysis.) I have 4 different topwood species available for my current build: California Sitka, Englemann, Lutz, and Coastal Redwood. The billets range from 37…
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Hello Neil, I also measure wood properties when I build mandolins and what you did is very similar to what I have tried, so I'd like to share some thoughts and comments. From my engineer point of view,…
Hey all, I’m curious to know people’s general thoughts on the appropriate or ideal saddle height after a reset. And, when to replace a bridge that’s been shaved down. I know there are a lot of factors (for me anyhow) and this question could open a whole can of worms when it comes to the specifics of the guitar, its age, style of bridge and desired sound. I’m providing an example I encountered recently, but would also like to know people…
I attach my necks using the LMII/O'Brien jig. No matter the method, there is no guarantee that the neck block and edge of the rim at the top is truly perpendicular to the centerline of the guitar.
I’ve just flossed when things weren’t quite right.
But now I take a long square, place it on the rim at the neck block and measure where the long square aligns on the top seam. I note Bass/Treble deviation at a known point (I use 290 mm).…
I will tag @member for this question. I hope you are ok with that. Is it of any use, to use the deflection measurement from for tonewood before building? To determine the basic deflection/stiffness for the selection of the tonewood.
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Hi Giuliano, Thanks so much for the answer. I was just wondering if I could use the deflection measurement frame for other purposes than on a 'finished' guitar. Do you have more information about your…
And further........A couple of pics. One is a Yamaha red label twelve string. If memory serves, took about forty minutes to remove cleanly. Ironically, these two pics represent the two guitars Dave…
Friends - My "go-to" truss rod for my basses has been the rod sold by LMII; however, since they are now out of business, I am evaluating what other rods are suitable for bass guitar necks. The attached photos are all showing truss rod lengths from the front edge of the nut slot location on the blank. One photo shows my last LMII rod (23 1/2" in length) vs. 2 other rods, one longer (23 11/16") and one shorter (22 1/4") -- all measured f…
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I think that the 22.25 is fine to run. It lands over the neck pocket and those last few frets are getting sanded down to create a fall off anyway. Have you ever thought about changing the design and…
I inherited a 70's D28 that is a players instrument. The action is too high for me, but the saddle is bottomed out. There is no obvious belly bulge. The top of the bridge has been shaved. Bridge pin holes are uneven in diameter. However, the bridge placement seems pretty close; within 1/32". A straight edge on the fret board sits about 1/8" below the top of the bridge. The fret board has plenty of finger worn wells, there is virtually n…
Looks like classic neck reset/typical martin stuff. Only exception is the fingerboard. Might be worth hopping on a zoom call to chat about this one. Would you have time for something like that ?
Dear looth community/colleagues around the world, During 2023/24 I have developed a digital gauge to measure so-called longitudinal twist of (bass) guitar necks: the LTwist® gauge. Just to be clear, this is about the "cork screw" type of deviation along the length of a neck, not the bow of a neck. I think there is no need to explain how a too severe neck twist can make it difficult or even impossible to set up a stringed instrument (guita…
Hey folks, I put together a video showing how I measure the long, cross, and transverse frequencies on guitar top plates before thicknessing, following the Gore method. I also walk through using the calculator I built (based on Trevor Gore’s equations) to get target thickness and track density / young's modulus. Fair warning: the video’s a bit YouTube-y in tone thumbnail faces, a little energy for the algorithm, but the content is genuine…
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Rick, this is amazing! Thank you so much for creating it and sharing it. I have Trevor’s books but having a calculator to run the equations is really fantastic.
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I'm having trouble getting my mic to work with REW. I'm at the beginning of a new build and would like to measure the tonewood properties. I am trying to follow Giuliano's instructions in his book. everything seems to be working but they don't talk to each other. I think its a calibration or pc setting but I'm not very computer savvy and what seems to go without saying needs to be said to me in step by step, very simple language. I…
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I suggest moving the slider on the Windows settings input level to 100%, not exactly sure about the UMIK but most USB mics use unity gain. Then go into the REW software under the "Preferences" drop d…