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Model is "The '80". Daion built some nice guitars in the 70's and 80's out of a small shop in Japan. Nice old all mahogany 12 string. It's my instrument so doing a bolt on conversion. Forget about trying to get the neck off one of these (apart from Kung Fu) - neck construction seems to be based on multiple dowels (a bit like some Japanese furniture I suppose)

First time here on the forums, not sure how often I'll check in, but thought this the best place to post it. Was playing with an idea proposed by Buck Van Laarhoven on a parametric model for bolt-on neck shims, and found the formulas I wrote up translated easily to Taylor and conventional acoustic neck joints so decided to add boxes for those as well. I'm not well versed in Google Sheets, but couldn't see a way to upload the file direct…

Anyone use a 3D scanner to make models for printing, or CNC? I've noticed a number of inexpensive scanners on the market that appear to be an able to scan with fine detail and accuracy. I've wondered if they could be used to scan a guitar neck, or arch top mandolin plate to then cut on a CNC after tweaking in a CAD program.

https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-design-validate-document/need-lofting-advice-or-is-there-a-better-way-for-this/m-p/13219436

This is an early 80's Jester. The only identification is the label inside which appears to show the model number as ACW160, though I've only seen reference to model W160 online. There is scant information about Jester guitars online, and some of it seems inconsistent. This was most likely made in either Holland or Romania. Online information indicated that this would have a dowelled neck joint, but it clearly doesn't. This was a very di…

Hey Everyone- I have a Martin 000c-16 that is in bad need of a neck reset- Anyone have any experience with this particular model? It’s a mortise and tenon. Will I have more luck using steam or foam cutters? Anything to watch out for? UPDATE-So I think i’m good now. I found a in-depth write up on this model M&T reset process in the new Martin Repair Guide - by Patrick DiBurro Great book BTW- Thanks!

This came to me all smashed up and I rebuilt it with a new sitka top. The neck was bolted on with the fingerboard extension glued to the (original) cedar top. There is a block under the extension with the end of the truss rod running through it. The bolt heads are recessed in the neck block and in another example, I've seen there is a label over the neck block to hide the bolt heads. I don't know if the two brass shims next to the bolt…

Howdy folks, Y'all may know that over the years I've had my hands in all sorts of varying degrees of our beloved lutherie bizz; from my current modest restoration shop focus to work for 'The Man' in big production. Throughout this I've built up contacts of various sorts and recently, as I've started to get back into building (to some degree) I've had some of these contact ask me about moving some wood on their behalf. So, here I am wo…

Neck Reset suite repair forms and spreadsheet. (Please share 🌞) Three new (and pretty cool) totally free forms on my website (http://www.beauhannamguitars.com/Lutherie-Resources.html) 1- The first form is a detailed explanation of the procedure taking into account top deflection (print one out for yourself to look at) 2- The second is the Neck Reset repair form to print multiples of and give to the customer. 3- The third is an Excel spreed…

This is a 1983 Martin Shenandoah D-2832. From what I've found, this joint continues to be used on similar models until at least 1987, after which I don't know. It has a single bolt accessed inside the body behind a wood cover. The face of the heel is inset a mm or two and is glued fully at the face of the body joint. Drill holes under the 14th fret right at the joint to loosen the glue.The neck is removed laterally rather than vertically…

This neck reset database is going to be massively useful. If you come across something new or weird, add a topic here. You know the sort of info that'll be good here: For the title, maybe use the instrument model (and a year if possible). Obviously add a photo or two. If you can, include some measurements (or place a ruler in the photo). That'll help with stuff like finding dovetail pockets for drilling. Anything that could trip up an unsu…