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Private member DiscussionGeneral

Stainless steel fretwire for compound radius

Hey! I have a friend who builds flat tops who wants to give stainless a try. I have done a handful of refrets and he was asking advice. He is using a compound radius from 14” to 20”. Jeskar sells the coils and they come in 10”. I have only done installs where the wire matches the board precisely. I bought pre cut pre radius bags for these re frets. Has anyone worked on a compound radius. Do you radius each fret on a bender or can you get…

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Here are some pictures of my bender. Pretty simple. just a few bearings washers and bolts.
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Newbie question on 12 string action

I recently picked up a Sterling Atlas 12 string that is in excellent shape except for some bellying, which once I get into setting action, may determine if I need to add a ‘bridge doctor’ to remediate some of it. However, I noticed that the saddle (adjustable but set to lowest point) has no curvature and there is not much down pressure on the center sets of strings which is causing some buzzing. My question is this (my first 12 string p…

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Thanks again to those that lended their wisdom. Bridge doctor just came in plus some bone saddle blanks so will get ready to tackle that project in near future.
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Frustrating Fret buzz

when setting up acoustic guitars, from time to time I have a lot of trouble with getting the G string to ring true when fretted. Starting from lower frets and at its worst at about the 5/6th fret, the G string buzzes when plucked "heavily" (when no other string does so)...most recently a Taylor 724 which had a neck adjustment to reduce action (to 5/64-4/64), relief about 0.003 or 0.004. Increasing relief to about 8-9 helps somewhat.…

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Depends on what you are calling a "buzz." The G3 at 196 Hz is going to be very near the T(1,1)2 main top resonance of the guitar. Notes fretted up higher on the G string could conceivably be near th…
Private member DiscussionElectric Builds

Issues pushing frets into ebony fretboard

I've only built a handful of necks and most of them have been roasted maple fretboards. This time around I am using a beautiful and incredibly stiff/hard piece of ebony. I am doing a light hammering in of the frets to get them seated and then using the hand-held vice clamps from Stewmac with the correct fretboard radius to push them down evenly the rest of the way. This process works just fine on roasted maple. It's just a softer wood t…

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Thanks all. I widened the slots with a bigger blade and deepened them a bit. It's to the point where they kinda slide in and I'm using CA glue to get them all the way there. Hammering them in just doe…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Seeking Mid 70's Martin D28 High Action Assesment Input And Recommendations

I inherited a 70's D28 that is a players instrument. The action is too high for me, but the saddle is bottomed out. There is no obvious belly bulge. The top of the bridge has been shaved. Bridge pin holes are uneven in diameter. However, the bridge placement seems pretty close; within 1/32". A straight edge on the fret board sits about 1/8" below the top of the bridge. The fret board has plenty of finger worn wells, there is virtually n…

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Ian Davlin
Looks like classic neck reset/typical martin stuff. Only exception is the fingerboard. Might be worth hopping on a zoom call to chat about this one. Would you have time for something like that ?
Private member DiscussionFolk, Bluegrass, Irish, Old Time Instruments

My first mandolin

Hi all, just sharing a couple of shots of my latest build, an A5-style mandolin with a goth soul 😉 Tonewoods Top: Alpine Spruce (Italy) Back & sides: Flame maple (France) Neck: Birch (Sweden) Fretboard & bridge: African Ebony Dimensions Scale length: 352.4 mm Nut width: 30 mm Fretboard radius: flat Total length: 660 mm Body width: 260 mm Finish Hand-rubbed stains and acrylic satin finish Features Hammered steel pickguard and truss rod cover Moose antl…

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Ian Davlin
It really looks stunning. Great work !
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

1930s Gibson L-7 Fretboard Radius 9.5" vs 12"

I'm refretting an all-original Gibson L-7 from 1934, and it has a 9.5" or so fretboard radius. However, the bridge, also original, has a 12" radius. I need to flatten the board, as it has a hump at the tenth, but I'm wondering if I go with the 9.5" radius, or try and get it to 12". I'm a little worried about sanding through the Nick Lucas style inlays, so I'd like some input here. If I kept the 9.5" radius, I'd likely have to radius the…

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Ian Davlin
It's probably going to make sense to keep the 9.5 radius. You'd definitely have to pull the inlays to modify the radius that much in the middle of the board and that would really suck with those inla…
Private member DiscussionElectric Builds

Set-neck pocket and angle questions

Hi Everyone, I’m working through building my first set neck electric, an LP Jr. I had some build questions… - if you’ve built these Gibson style set necks before, did you cut the neck pocket straight and angle the heel of the neck? Or did you cut the pocket at the angle and keep the bottom of the heel straight? I’m attempting to cut the pocket at an angle, and it isn’t the easiest thing to do, I’m finding out. First, I’ve had some moveme…

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Hi Joe, I would recommend putting the taper in the neck pocket, not the neck. Maybe you need thinner shims to solve your router depth issue. I would glue the fingerboard onto the neck and have that as…
Private member DiscussionSELL! SELL! SELL!

Nut files and fretting tools

Doing some workshop organization and found some tools I don't use. All are in excellent shape with very minimal use. Each item linked to the relevant product page: Japanese nut files. Mine have a bit of surface rust but they were used for maybe 2 guitars. $80 new, selling for $40 StewMac Gauged Nut Slotting File Set for Electric Guitar (for medium strings) and one of each nut file backer. Used on one guitar. $113 new for the files and $19…

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Everything is sold except the fret cutting saw blade!
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Trouble radiusing ebony

Hello everyone, I'm currently radiusing out a flame ebony fretboard (using 100grit sandpaper), and is giving me some trouble. The radii is 16'' and it came perfectly straight along its lenght, but over the width, tough the radius already match the sanding beam, it keep developing along the lenght 2 long areas were it seam to eat more wood than other parts, leaving a gap easyly noticeable under inspection. At first I thought that since th…

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Ian Davlin
My prime guesses are heat or funk in the radius block. If you are using epoxy to glue the FB on, you might switch up to hide glue. It has better resiliency to heat unless you pony up for hi-temp epoxy…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Replace broken back brace Gibson LG-1

Hello, This is my first discussion as I am new to this group. I am starting a restoration project on a 1957 Gibson LG-1. The first job on it that I want to tackle is to replace a broken back brace. It appears to be broken in half right on the center line (see pic one before the brace was removed). I have removed it and am gluing in back together (pic 2), just to get it strong enough to use as a template for fabricating a replacement…

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Hi John, welcome to the Looth Group. Yes, Doug Proper's radius-sanding tool is wonderful - he should have invented it 50 years ago, and that really annoys me. However it is one of the most "why din't…
Private member DiscussionCAD/CAM

Radius dish

Hi guys. I have a cnc machine but don’t know how to draw stuff. Can anyone share a file for a 15 and 30 foot radius dish please?

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What CAD CAM software are you using? I use Aspire and could provide a 15 and 28 foot radius file in that. Here they are as STL files