I have repaired numerous top crack on this instrument built by a customer at a guitar building camp. The bridge was off and warped. That has been addressed. After gluing with hide glue and splining the crack these top two did not closed as much as I would have liked. The bigger is about 1/32 at the widest and the other about 1/64. The crack is tight at the bottom. If I can help it I would like to fill it rather than spline it as I have…
I am pretty good at touch up on darker to med woods and air brushing some solid color touchups on electrics but as you said spruce tops with gloss are near impossible. I was hoping to maybe clean it…
Hi all. Brand new member. I’ve been building a classical guitar via kit from LMI for a couple of years now. I keep putting it off but recently became motivated to get back to it. Unfortunately LMI is out of business so I now have no one to go to to ask questions. I’m at the stage where I’m putting the sides together in the form. I followed the dimensions for the form based on the plans as I measured them, but the sides overlap pretty ba…
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Structurally you are fine. When you glue this up (this is important), make sure your sides are clamped in the form VERY snug so there are no gaps between the sides and the forms. This will leave the…
I'm fast approaching the finish coating of 2 acousitcs. The sitka spruce tops are really bright. I'd like to tone them down a little and have been scouring the web for methods. Seems like adding amber toner in either the sand sealer or more likely the first set of nitro lacquer coats might be the the ticket. I see Stewmac has a Colortone stain called "Vintage Amber" that can be mixed into the nitro. Anybody have expirience with this pro…
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Hi Gerry, I recommend spraying a sealer chow it a light scuff and then one more sealer coat. If you are using lacquer, thin some 50% by volume and add TransTint or Colortone. Same dye and some of the…
Has anyone developed, or know of for sale, a fixture that can be installed in an acoustic body (dovetail neck) during finishing? I'm approaching the spraying stage of my build and would like to be able to have a "handle" on the body that I can use to hold & hang the body during that process. Regards,
Hello, Apologies if this has been answered before, I couldn’t find any posts covering it. I’m looking to get started with an airbrush for small finish repairs. AI is telling me to get a Fengda 186 with 3L tank and a Harder & Steenbeck brush (not cheap!). But would appreciate recommendations for a budget setup from actual human people also. Thanks!
most cheap ones will do you fine, what medium are you using? Nitro? 2k? Water based? 1k? you probably don't need to view more expensive options unless you're looking to get into detailed work. Iwata…
Hi -- I am planning to have a maple Thinline Tele top painted by an automotive paint shop. They've made a glossy and a matt sample for me and it looks great. I wonder if anyone has any experience with this, and specifically:
- if I bind the top first, will the paint stand very proud above the binding once I scrape the paint off the binding?
- the matt looks terrific, but it looks like it will burnish and get shiny in spots or line…
Hey, I've just had a go at repairing a cracked Epiphone Hummingbird and it all went well except burning through the colour of the finish when sanding it up to a gloss. Any ideas for patching this up?
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I had another pass over the micromesh pads on some particularly rough spots and did manage to get to a good state. It would make sense that Rogue Grit has paid me a visit on some of the lower grit san…
A customer recently brought in a Gibson J-185-EC for some setup work, and also wanted me to address some leakage from a humidity pack the was apparently left in the guitar before he bought it, and it leaked in a number of places. I was wondering what the best way to clean this up from the inside? There's also finish lifting on the back of the guitar where it's leaked through the wood. I'm curious to know the approach here. I believe it…
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We had dozens of those come back to Taylor. We tried everything under the sun with very little success. The salt impregnates itself into the wood and is impossible to remove. We stripped and refinishe…
I'm replacing the top on an old Stella with white painted "binding." Wondering what kind of paint I should use to come close to the original and be stable under finish.
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+1 to what Erik said about mixol. You can dirty it up by adding a little brown (lightly) pigment here and there and some dye ambered lacquer to simulate the aged clear coat.
Finish SanderLocation: Athens, Georgia Schedule: Flexible, Monday–Friday Pay: $16–$19 per hour (depending on experience) We are seeking a Finish Sander to join our small shop in Athens, Georgia. This role focuses primarily on dry scuff sanding and wet sanding as part of our finishing process. Buffing training will be provided as needed. This position is centered on learning the intricacies of sanding and surface preparation. Spraying is n…
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I worked for Matt for about 2 years. He's a wizard and I love him to death. Just being in that shop changed the way I will look at surfaces for the rest of my life. And his attention to detail is as h…
Hey guys, Up until now I've always tried to blend any repairs into the surrounding area when it comes to finishing and avoid refinishing as much as possible. However, im yet to be fully satisfied with the results or hit the elusive "invisible repair" So my question is, for this headstock fix in the image, would you simplly refinish over the splines or consider refinishing the whole neck to avoid the blending battle? For what its worth, its…
+1000 on Ian's comments. To add to that - I tend to avoid blending as much as possible. I underquote and takes "3 forever's" worth of effort to get a result that I AM HAPPY with. Now I quote a price f…
Hi, I have a 1950's Gibson LG-3 that's had some poor work done to the spruce under the area of the bridge where the spruce has pulled away and or been sanded excessively. It's missing about .020-0.30 thou of spruce and I'm wondering/looking for advice about how to go about splicing in a thin piece of spruce before I re-glue the bridge. Please see pictures attached. My main questions are: glues for the patch, should the patch be mitered…
When faced with a similar job recently, I chose to glue the patch in place with epoxy, then used hide glue to reset the bridge. The logic being that 20 years from now when someone needs to reset the…
Just wondering, anyone doing Ken Parker finishing on an acoustic with the bridge glued on? I've been using the finish for a while but I'd like to start glueing the bridge on before I finish so I can acoustic test everything in its final state. I can't see a reason why I couldn't wipe the epoxy and oil up into the bridge joint and then remove it by rubbing but I was wondering if anyone has done it already. It would mean finishing the…
Does anyone have experience and advice for touching up the color of a Les Paul Goldtop? It looks to be a light sparkle. Not looking to finish the entire top. Thanks!
Hi everyone - I recently ran into trouble making new nut for one of my necks that needed to be trued and re-fretted. I roughed in the nut as usual and then, with the bass guitar fully assembled and strung up, I started cutting the slots to depth. I use the StewMac digital nut slot depth gauge and have had good results in the past. I marked the nut's lowest points (radiused) using the guitar nut scribe tool (first time using this!) and c…
That's actually not how that tool was intended to be used. That is essentially plotting a like to the top of the fret. With a bass, you would need much more than that. When James and I came up with th…