The Hub

This is a simple but effective setup for cutting fret slots quickly and accurately. Ryobi table saw with a crosscut sled and saw blade with a kerf to match fret slot thickness. The sled has an indexing pin for using fret scale templates with notches. The blade alone sells for $163 on Stew Mac. I also have another blade for sale.

I'm fairly new to CNC and am attempting to set up for a fretboard carve. I'm using a one year old ShopBot Desktop Max. This is the first I've found a problem like this. I made some practice blanks and thought I had everything the way I wanted it until I measured me fret distances. Using calipers from the nut to the center for the first fret slot I get 1.399" and I'm expecting 1.4346. I brought up the file and used the measuring too…

This thing had a conveniently placed hole in the neck pickup cavity that ran all the way to the end of the tenon, presumably the entry point for the long drill bit that drilled the access from pickup cavity to control cavity before the neck was originally fitted. I injected several pipettes of hot water into this hole while heating the fretboard extension area with a silicone blanket to loosen the extension from the body. Reactivated hi…

So this 46' J-45 came to me at a very very low price as it needs extensive repair. Much that I am confident in, cracks, bridge/bridge plate issues, loose braces and the like. There are however a few points that id like the groups opinions on. The neck angle is pretty great and theres a good amount of fret, however, at some point in its past, someone shaved down the neck to a dangerous point, and the back of the neck has toms cracks along…

1952 Gibson Southern Jumbo. I drilled 2 holes 1 cm from the edge through the 15th fret slot for the wire heaters. This one didn’t require any steam just a lot of boiling water. Be weary of the celluloid inlays and binding. They melt fairly easily. (Oops) It happened to a friend once! lol

This is an early 80's Jester. The only identification is the label inside which appears to show the model number as ACW160, though I've only seen reference to model W160 online. There is scant information about Jester guitars online, and some of it seems inconsistent. This was most likely made in either Holland or Romania. Online information indicated that this would have a dowelled neck joint, but it clearly doesn't. This was a very di…

Hey everyone, I’m working on a 70’s d-35 and while refreting it have run into an issue of extremely narrow fret slots. They are a tight fit with a 16 thou feeler gauge. I think that even thinning out fret wire with the barber won’t be enough as the pre barb tang thickness is around 20 thou. What bits do you guys like to use to clean/size fret slots? Thanks!

I have access to a nova thunderlaser 5-something and I saw a video of somebody cutting out a fret board as well as the fret slots, as well as an entire neck out of a blank with a laser cutter, and I’m wondering if this is a reasonable thing to do and if anybody has experience with the kind of shrinkage that would probably happen with such a deep cut in the neck blank. Any insight at all is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Doing some workshop organization and found some tools I don't use. All are in excellent shape with very minimal use. Each item linked to the relevant product page: Japanese nut files. Mine have a bit of surface rust but they were used for maybe 2 guitars. $80 new, selling for $40 StewMac Gauged Nut Slotting File Set for Electric Guitar (for medium strings) and one of each nut file backer. Used on one guitar. $113 new for the files and $19…

Hey guys, Sorry, this may be a dumb question. I'm cutting some new frets for this D-28 with a bound fretboard. Does anyone know of a good way to prevent the fret ends from twisting when cutting the tangs? They're stainless steel frets, not sure if that would matter. I'm using a fret tang nipper from StewMac. It seems like no matter how little material I try to bite off at a time, the tang nipper twists the fret, which leads to the ends s…

I've done a few neck resets lately, (new territory for me) using the StewMac Heat Stick. It does a fine job releasing the glue, my problem is filling the hole in the 15th fret slot so that it isn't noticeable. I did a lighter colored rosewood board lately that certainly could have been better. I'm thinking of trying the needle/ steam method instead but haven't found a controllable source for steam. I would appreciate any advice with…