The Hub

The latest builds, repairs, and conversations from across Looth. Activity
Filters AND Search fretting× Type Discussions× Type Videos× Reset all
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Open string sitar buzz after nut slot work

Hi all, new to nut slot work world, please can you help me with this mystery? fret levelling, neck relief and string action adjustment all completed to Fender 9.5" radius spec. very happy with that. the next step: 0.011” High E string’s nut slot was a bit low. I used Dave Johnson’s (MI Guitar Craft Academy) “q-tip slot raising method”: the pulled cotton strand, plus extra thin CA glue, to fill the slot, then trim it off once dry,…

5 replies
5 replies
LikeShare
Private member
i always use a nut file that is the closest size up from the string gauge. i used a 13 gauge file for an 11 gauge string, and 16 gauge file for a 14 gauge string
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Schecter Banshee Mach 6 Intonation at the second fret

I have a customer with a guitar that has an intonation issue. It plays flat at the first and second fret on the D and G string. The factory spec says its a 25.5 scale but I measure from the nut to the 12th fret 12 5/8. I plugged the number for a 25.25 scale into the Stew Mac fret board calculator and the measurement is off from the nut to the first fret. Unfortunately I now longer have the guitar in my possession so I cant tell you exac…

5 replies
5 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
Any way for you to get the instrument back for those measurements? One thing about the compensated nut, is it suggests some factory tinkering with intonation more broadly. It's not uncommon for intona…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Do I need a refret?

Hi, thanks for this great resource. This is my first post here. I work on my own instruments and have little experience with advanced repairs. Recently I acquired a ca. 78 Sigma DR28H. I bought it because it sounded great and came with a pickup installed. I wanted something for open mics and gigging. With light strumming it sounded fine but I found some buzzing when I took it to a jam. I made a nut and saddle , adjusted the truss…

3 replies
3 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Someone was just asking this recently and you may find the answers insightful: https://dev2.loothgroup.com/all-forums-all-topics/topic/fret-levelling-how-low-is-too-low/ It sounds to me like a good idea…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Yamaha FG410A with very fragile fretboard

Hello everyone, I hope you're doing good. I'm very much a new guitar repair enthusiast, any advice or feedback would really appreciated. I'm working on this Yamaha FG410A, as you can see, it's in rough shape. The guitar lived in a case in a storage container since the 90s. The guitar was really dry when I got it, so I started my slowly introducing moisture. I removed the frets and then put the guitar in a bag, with a hygrometer…

10 replies
10 replies
LikeShare
Private member
I think your approach makes sense. You will learn much from this project. I am sure you will discover creative ways to fix problems. I have used the saw dust CA glue method to fix divots in the fin…
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Replacement for SC Johnson's Paste Wax?

Can anyone recommend a good substitute for Johnson's Paste Wax? We're down to about 1/3 of a can, and it appears that it's no longer being manufactured, and I'm not too keen on paying some of the prices I've seen around online.

5 replies
5 replies
LikeShare
Private member
We use it on fingerboards and bridges for conditioning. It also repels glue when you're doing a refret (just don't let it in the slots).
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

First ebony fingerboard - any advice?

I’m about to do my first ebony fingerboard replacement and wondered if there was any advice, compared with rosewood fingerboard construction. I plan to use the small aluminum jig and fret saw to cut the slots manually, indexing off the old fingerboard. Thanks for any advice or encouragement!

7 replies
7 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Dan, your generous advice is much appreciated. I'm all repair at this point, and have refretted a couple of dozen necks but still feel like an amateur! If you have time, can you mention which glues you…
Private member DiscussionRepair and Restoration

Fret levelling: How low is too low?

I finished levelling frets on a mandolin last week, and was surprised that the frets with the worst divots worked down to .020" Had I known that I'd go that low, I might have replaced them, but it's hard to measure divot height, especially those caused by thin strings. I haven't seen much discussion on standards for fret height or guidelines to know at what point should I switch from levelling to replacement. What standards are peop…

4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
Private member
I’ve found for most guitar players anything below .030” starts to get into refret territory. Might be different for mandolins though, I don’t work on many of those. I have a client that loves the fret…
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

Rozawood RB-11

I don't know when it's from. This one differs from the other one I did, which was much more traditional looking (down to the 70s martin hollow tube neck support). Nothing surprising... pocket is directly under the fret slot.

LikeShare
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Semi-hemi fret question

For those of you who regularly do semi-hemispherical frets -- how long do you make your frets? Specifically for a bound fretboard (although I suppose this would apply to either bound or unbound) do your frets come up a little short of the outside edge of the binding? And if so, how much gap do you leave? I did my first semi-hemis on a new build and made them end flush with the outside edge of the bindings, but it doesn't feel right.…

7 replies
7 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Thanks for adding the visual. So if there weren't a chamfer there, you'd be about 0.02" inches short of the edge, right? That "feels" right to me....
Private member DiscussionNew Builds

Neck Set w/o frets...

I have a 74' D-28 im working on, just curious what you guys do in terms of process steps. Right now, im setting the angle, without frets(I reinforced the square tube rod with carbon fiber and will need to refret once put back together.) Do you guys shoot for the straight edge hitting the top of the bridge with, or without frets? Im wondering if I should undershoot my bridge just a touch so that then I can fret and have a good saddle hei…

7 replies
7 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

Yamaha FG 75 Heat Probe Locating

I added measurements for the Yamaha FG red label FG 75's some time ago. I Keep getting these in for neck resets. I wanted to add photo's from the first one because they show that the dovetail joint does not align with the first fret beyond the neck/side to make folks aware so that one knows to slightly angle the drill to hit the pocket. I do the same on the holes drilled at the fret at the side/neck fret. I slightly angle the drill…

1 reply
1 reply
LikeShare
Private member
Yeah I've done almost or around 10 of these Red Labels. Most people think it's not possible and might be epoxy. Not the case, right! Hide glue, dovetails totally doable. I think I posted some picks ea…
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Tiny fret slot blues

Hey lads I'm in a bit of an indecisive spot with a 70's yamaha acoustic refret. Pulled the original frets and the tang is .018" with no barbs just divots pressed into the lower edge. The slot is measuring .018". Struggled to find any suitable sized fretwire in stock in the UK that match what the customer wants that'll fit in the slot. Sintoms looked ideal but couldn't find any, so went with something with 0.20 tang and they're not pressi…

5 replies
5 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Yes, a dremel is not ideal. Ideally you want an air tool with tighter tolerances. Do you have any pawn shops or junk around your shop? Practice on something, you will get a feel for it.
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

Gagliano 701 Jumbo Neck Joint

A Gagliano Jumbo probably made by Kay in the 1950's. It looks like this had a previous neck reset based on the shims and some sloppy chisel work. I removed the 14th and 15th frets because I had read that these might have a straight tenon. I didn't need to drill any holes for heat, as the spruce shims both split in half after the fretboard extension was released. The dovetail is about 11mm long, the pocket is 14mm deep, and the 15th fret…

1 reply
1 reply
LikeShare
Private member
So it's a traditional dovetail joint then? Hard to tell if there is a taper from photos. The Galiano-labeled guitars made by the Italian luthiers working in NYC in the first half of the 20th century…