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Private member DiscussionElectric Builds

Set-neck pocket and angle questions

Hi Everyone, I’m working through building my first set neck electric, an LP Jr. I had some build questions… - if you’ve built these Gibson style set necks before, did you cut the neck pocket straight and angle the heel of the neck? Or did you cut the pocket at the angle and keep the bottom of the heel straight? I’m attempting to cut the pocket at an angle, and it isn’t the easiest thing to do, I’m finding out. First, I’ve had some moveme…

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Private member
Hi Joe, I would recommend putting the taper in the neck pocket, not the neck. Maybe you need thinner shims to solve your router depth issue. I would glue the fingerboard onto the neck and have that as…
Private member DiscussionSELL! SELL! SELL!

Nut files and fretting tools

Doing some workshop organization and found some tools I don't use. All are in excellent shape with very minimal use. Each item linked to the relevant product page: Japanese nut files. Mine have a bit of surface rust but they were used for maybe 2 guitars. $80 new, selling for $40 StewMac Gauged Nut Slotting File Set for Electric Guitar (for medium strings) and one of each nut file backer. Used on one guitar. $113 new for the files and $19…

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Private member
Everything is sold except the fret cutting saw blade!
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Trouble radiusing ebony

Hello everyone, I'm currently radiusing out a flame ebony fretboard (using 100grit sandpaper), and is giving me some trouble. The radii is 16'' and it came perfectly straight along its lenght, but over the width, tough the radius already match the sanding beam, it keep developing along the lenght 2 long areas were it seam to eat more wood than other parts, leaving a gap easyly noticeable under inspection. At first I thought that since th…

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Ian Davlin
My prime guesses are heat or funk in the radius block. If you are using epoxy to glue the FB on, you might switch up to hide glue. It has better resiliency to heat unless you pony up for hi-temp epoxy…