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Private member DiscussionGeneral

Is an online course for guitar repair a good way to go?

Hi all. I've just joined the group....I'm pretty certain what I'm asking here has already been covered somewhere but not really sure at the moment how to search chat topics. If so, and it's easier to just point me to an older chat...please do so! I'm in my 50s, been playing guitar for as long as I can remember. I'm a trained wood-worker (amongst other things) and am looking to start a new journey into guitar repairs. At my age I can't a…

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Private member
I am not a repair guy but you can also just take a guitar making class. It's not the same thing but the inform each other. I would say like 75% of Canadian luthiers have passed through Sergei Dejong…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

So what about Re-tops then…. (on a vintage D-35)

Hello again folks, how is everyone! So I'm curious about what people here think about re-tops, who's done them, and what sorta ballpark rates you've charged for past completed jobs. I've got a bit of a wild one here, so strap in if you've got a couple minutes for story time! Back in 2012, I traded an HD28V of mine for a cool 1966 D-35 that needed some work. Basically, the body and neck of the guitar were fine apart from…

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Private member
Oh yes, it is absolutely not down to financial matters here, or I'd have abandoned it completely hahaha, I've been thinking more about it, perhaps I will take the plunge, and have a bit of silly fun w…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

check list

I’m a pretty recent guitar maker. When I retired in 2019, I had to keep very busy and making guitars was my answer. As time rolled on I became more and more involved (ie; anal). As I age , I realize I keep making little errors. I forget a step or don’t use the right procedure. My son, an MD, told me to do what pilots do. That is a check list in chronological order. It’s worked wonders. I think I’ve cut my error rate in half!

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Private member
About a hundred steps. Some just take a few seconds and some take all day. Like " sand back and sides to 320 grit."
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

1950's Gretsch Neck Reset

I had a vintage Gretsch semi hollow come through the shop this week and it's left me with some questions. First off identifying the instrument's model has been a trick so far. The only information I can find is that is was likely built in and around the early 50's Second, it's in need of a neck reset. I'm not particularly well versed in resets for hollow and semi hollow guitars, especially one of this age and design. I'm very curious…

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Ian Davlin
That neck is coming off because it wasn't put on very well when it was made. In my opinion, slipping some glue in there and trying to clamp it shut will result in the next guy (often you) having a har…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Methods for aging a new acoustic bridge?

Hey all, Anyone have any go-to methods for making new replacement bridges look old? I’m about to make a new bridge for a relatively beat up 40’s Martin and contemplating ways to make it look more the part. With the replacements I’ve made up to this point I’ve always just sanded em real smooth, micromesh, oil, wax etc. I’m thinking maybe a wire brush prior to sanding for that shrunken grain look? The new bridge will be Indian rosewood. T…

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Private member
You can try raising the grain a little with a damp paper towel. I wouldn't got too wet. Mirlon 2500 pad is my go to for knocking down the sheen. Add dents to your liking. Find a reference photo a…
Private member DiscussionFinish New Builds

Aging Toner on a Sitka Spruce Top

I'm fast approaching the finish coating of 2 acousitcs. The sitka spruce tops are really bright. I'd like to tone them down a little and have been scouring the web for methods. Seems like adding amber toner in either the sand sealer or more likely the first set of nitro lacquer coats might be the the ticket. I see Stewmac has a Colortone stain called "Vintage Amber" that can be mixed into the nitro. Anybody have expirience with this pro…

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Hi Gerry, I recommend spraying a sealer chow it a light scuff and then one more sealer coat. If you are using lacquer, thin some 50% by volume and add TransTint or Colortone. Same dye and some of the…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Any helpful tips with bar frets?

Hello, One of my commissions is coming down the pike and it's going to be my first time using bar frets. I could use a once over for any helpful tips if you have any. About the guitar: Aged HD-28 but mahogany back and sides. I think Martin called this a HD-28 M? Skipping the truss-rod and using two carbon fiber strips. My process for Frets: 1: I CNC my fingerboards to a 16" radius and for T-frets I use a .023" to cut slots with a mat…

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Ian Davlin
Depending on the carbon fiber strips and the gauge of string, you're compression may be moot, or at the very least, a fairly subtle factor. I would do a lot of testing before you glue the neck on to t…
Private member DiscussionFinish Repair

Preserving Signature’s

Hey yall! I am thinking through multiple options for preserving a large signature for a customer that is on the Front of a white Strat. I have done this a few ways before but never got to see much how they aged. What’s the general consensus for doing this sort of job? Thanks in advance!

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Ian Davlin
I don't know about aging, but they always gave me the heebie geebies. I wouldn't do one unless they had the type of pen that was used so I could test it.
Private member DiscussionFinish New Builds

Sparkle Burgundy Gibson Finish

Hi, I'm wondering how to achieve this color on a guitar. It's Sparkle Burgundy. I suspect the clear varnish has yellowed with age, which is why it has a coppery effect depending on the light. Can you recommend a varnish to achieve this effect? ​​Should I use a UV lamp after varnishing to age the varnish? Thanks in advance for your help.

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Ian Davlin
This is a guess, but I think that is a red translucent finish over bronze powder. Probably gold top powder. Some of the red has done been UVed out and the clear coats have turned yellow.
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

Thoughts on Saddle and Bridge Heights During a Reset?

Hey all, I’m curious to know people’s general thoughts on the appropriate or ideal saddle height after a reset. And, when to replace a bridge that’s been shaved down. I know there are a lot of factors (for me anyhow) and this question could open a whole can of worms when it comes to the specifics of the guitar, its age, style of bridge and desired sound. I’m providing an example I encountered recently, but would also like to know people…

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^*Pics are after*^ in case it was unclear.
Private member DiscussionGeneral

1950's Gibson L48

I'm not sure this belongs in this subcategory, but not sure where else to post it. Could use another set of eyes and expertise on this. Customer came through yesterday wanting to sell a 1950 Gibson L-48. It's been played and loved quite a bit, but despite that it plays and sounds very well. The tuners are cheap replacements, the fingerboard being well worn, and the missing finish in areas, otherwise it seems like everything is structura…

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Private member DiscussionGeneral Business

Looking for Dan Armstrong plexiglass reissue brass saddles

my customer bought this used with the original saddles replaced by nylon saddles and would like to restore to the original brass saddle inserts. anybody got a set or an address where I can get them (made)? thx Age

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Private member
Ended up getting steel bearing rollers, diameter 4mm. Very precise, hard and perfect fit!
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Broken Neck Screws on Suhr JM

I had a client dropped off his Suhr JM Classic for a pot replacement yesterday. The fretboard extension hangs over the pickguard on these a little so I flipped it over to loosen the neck screws a tad. I found what looked like 3 missing neck screws and only one screwed in place. The one screwed in place was bright and shiny. I removed that screw and the neck would not budge at all. I focused a pin light into the neck pocket holes to find…

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Private member
I finally heard back from Suhr. They quickly admitted that they used to relique all the screw surfaces instead of just the heads, weakening them in the process. This is a known issue in their enterpri…
Private member DiscussionFolk, Bluegrass, Irish, Old Time Instruments

My first mandolin

Hi all, just sharing a couple of shots of my latest build, an A5-style mandolin with a goth soul 😉 Tonewoods Top: Alpine Spruce (Italy) Back & sides: Flame maple (France) Neck: Birch (Sweden) Fretboard & bridge: African Ebony Dimensions Scale length: 352.4 mm Nut width: 30 mm Fretboard radius: flat Total length: 660 mm Body width: 260 mm Finish Hand-rubbed stains and acrylic satin finish Features Hammered steel pickguard and truss rod cover Moose antl…

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Ian Davlin
It really looks stunning. Great work !