The Hub

The latest builds, repairs, and conversations from across Looth. Activity
Filters AND Search archtop× Type Discussions× Type Documents× Reset all
Private member DiscussionDiscussions

Anyone know where I can find a Thumbwheel tone control assembly like this?

Client wants me to add a Tone control similar to this (pic) to his archtop. where can I get one? Thx!

4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
Private member
I get them from Mouser Electronics but you can also get them from WD Music Products https://www.wdmusic.com/alpha-thumbwheel-potentiometer-250-kohm-500-kohm-details.html#menu
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

1960s Silvertone archtop neck pull

Dovetail was 9/16” deep, and 1 9/16” wide at the back. 15th fret was 1 mm tail side of the end of the dovetail socket but a slight angulation towards the headstock landed in the right place. Hide glue, released easily. Nice everyday player, finish and binding beautiful, good spruce top, warped poplar neck.

LikeShare
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Thoughts on Restauration Roger Archtop

Hey everybody, I should restore this Roger Rossmeissl Archtop. There is a lot of work to do. The owner is aware of the possibly-much-more-work-than-value situation. I am still thinking about how to aproach it, I want to start working on the guitar in August. It seems that there is not much warping in the top, few wood is lost. I do not know what happened to the guitar, but sometimes I hear a voice coming out the corner of my workshop mumb…

2 replies
2 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Thanks Ian! There are no splines, I think it will be it s first real repair. Some breaks have old transparent tape that is already corroded into the finish. The customer said something like money is n…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Mandocello neck block

I am building an archtop mandocello (A style) and I'm trying to find out how to make the neck block. It would be more or less like an A style mandolin neck block, but obviously quite a lot bigger. More or less like the image attached. The blank should be aprox 10 x 8 x 12 cm. I'm trying to find a piece of hardwood big enough for this, would it be acceptable if I made some kind of laminated piece? And how should the grain direction be idea…

2 replies
2 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
The traditional A style mandocello neckblocks were mahogany. There are some really good reasons for laminating them because there are forces on the block that make any single grain orientation a damne…
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Heating Pad (or other) Recommendation for Backbow?

Have an electric archtop that has a .012" backbow strung with 12-48s with truss rod completely loosened. 3 piece maple neck with a Ziricote fingerboard... Any tips or recommendations to straighten this neck would be appreciated... Currently trying humidity (in the case). Thank you! David O'

6 replies
6 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Hi Tom and John. We're trying to slip the glue joint and heat the lignin in the fingerboard. Lignin is a natural glue in wood that holds the cell structure together and acts much like glue we use and w…
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Gretsch Rally Hell

Just sharing some info to procrastinate my nth attempt at getting this thing together. and some venting. If you get one of these in with electronic issues, estimate high. Customer brought in a Gretsch Rally in pieces that he picked up from the last repairman (who died), and just wants it to play. Minor binding repair and a weirdly-angled zero fret were relatively easy to deal with. The dead electronics are the main problem.…

4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
Private member
I would even consider using 2.5mm TRS or TRRS connectors. (Similar to what Guitar Fetish uses on their pickups.) That would allow modularity of the components, and even easier installation. Only drawb…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Gibson L-50 archtop with loose back braces

Anyone have success re-gluing back braces on a Gibson f-hole arch top? I've got an L-50 in the shop with very small f holes. My jack braces won't even fit through the holes. The back is flat like a standard guitar with transverse ladder bracing. All 4 back braces are loose on the ends. I think I can get a go-bar on the lower 2, but the upper 2 will be very difficult to reach. I'd rather not take the back off if possible. I wish I h…

4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
Do you know the move of flipping the the feet on the bridge gluing clamps to do tight to get to back braces ?
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Mandocello top tap tuning

Hi all, I am building a mandocello, Gibson style but with f holes, currently working on the top. I got to a point where I carved it to about 5 mm in the center and about 3,3 around the edges. If has some flexibility but still feels quite stiff. I tap and listen but having experience only with flat top guitars I don't really know what I'm looking for in terms of tap tone and flexibility. I know there is no correct answer to this, but anyo…

12 replies
12 replies
LikeShare
Private member
One more update. I have been generating Chladni patterns for the top. I normally do this with the closed box, as most luthiers seem to think that on free plates it's not very useful, but I found this…
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Epiphone archtop neck reset difficulty

I have an old epiphone archtop on my bench that I am struggling to get the neck off of. I think it's a 50's Zephyr (non cutaway, single NY pickup in neck position). Anyone have any experience with these? Is the neck not a dovetail joint? I'm no stranger to neck resets but this is putting up a fight as if it's been epoxied in place.

3 replies
3 replies
LikeShare
Private member
I managed to get it off after about 7 total hours of fighting it. Thanks for the link to the other repair, I really just needed confirmation that it was a dovetail. I ended up using a combination of d…
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Glue failure, what to do?

Hello, (First post) I'm a newer builder and I'm rebuilding an old destroyed archtop as a learning experience. I am using WEST System epoxy to glue in the new braces. I successfully got the first one in and the problem is with the second. It appears that the epoxy for the second brace did not set or cure. The leftover glue in the little cup is still flexible and sticky after a few days. I suspect the issue is I didn't have enough hardener…

7 replies
7 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
Removal, clean up and a do over is probably in order. Can I ask how you mixed it ? Did you use the pumps, by weight, or by volume ?
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Stella E-201 Archtop

This came into the shop. I did some research and the intranet said either "mis-identified" or "extremely rare". I'm going with extremely rare because I believe the label is legit and is extremely clear. Any other Japanese guitar collectors like me? Anybody else see anything like this? It's pretty cool. Made between 1958 and 1961.

1 reply
1 reply
LikeShare
Private member
Another pic......
Private member DiscussionTools and Jigs

Jointing archtop guitar tops

I usually build flat top guitars and usually joint the tops and backs with a Stanley no 5 style of hand plane ( only different brand). I want to build an archtop instrument, and the wood blanks I have are longer than usual and, of course, a lot thicker. What size plane do you use for kind of job? Would it be easier with a longer plane (6 or 7)? Thanks! Jorge

1 reply
1 reply
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
I used a no 7 when joining mandolin tops. It's just an all around handy plane. Also looks great on a bench or shelf. Really bumps up the looth cred.
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Archtop f-hole placement: how precise?

I was finally able to model something like a Gibson L7 top plate! Now I'm trying to build my f-holes... My only reference is the Benedetto archtop book, where it puts a few rules of thumb about how the f-holes should be placed. My question is, how precise are we talking here? One of the rules of thumb is that the bridge intersects at the midway point of the f-holes. Does this imply that the f-holes are at a certain location on the plate,…

4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Possibly answering my own question...given my current drawing, there is 11.157" from the f-hole point I chose to the end of the body. If you assume that's the 14th fret, it implies a 26" scale length…
Private member Discussion3D Printing

F Hole Plugs for Archtop

I drew up and printed these F hole plugs for a customer a little while back, felt like showing them off here. The bottom diamond shaped piece has a M4 nut in it, and is super glued to the body of the plug at its two tips. An M4 screw threads into the nut through the counter-sunk hole in the top of the plug. The entire plug drops into the F hole, and then you can tighten the screw slightly to expand the plug so it clamps itself into plac…

2 replies
2 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Great idea, and I love the idea of comically oversized F holes.
Private member DiscussionGeneral

1911 Gibson archtop pickguard repair

Hoping to repair the original pickguard. Customer isn’t fussy about methodology and understands that a new pickguard might be the ultimate outcome. Anyone have ideas of how to repair this one?

7 replies
7 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
Make sure to post pictures of the one you made. It looks fantastic.
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

Airline Archtop L2987

Sometimes I wonder if I am the only one that works on guitars like this. Thought I would post it anyway since I have worked on a number of Harmony's too. Seems like there is some interest out there in buying up the 50-60's budget guitars in my area. Drilled into the 15th fret as usual, but the 15th fret is actually about 1/4" behind the neck pocket. On this guitar there was no glue on the sides of the dovetail. The only glue was between…

3 replies
3 replies
LikeShare
Private member
This is an archtop.
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Hivemind suggestions for a wrecked archtop

So this one is a real doozy. Gorgeous Heritage hollowbody, destroyed in shipping. Owner got a full refund and they didn't want the guitar back, so he has no money in it currently. He's a collector and longtime friend/client/student of mine, which is the only reason I'm even considering it, he understands the potential nightmare this could be, and he builds very serious race cars for a living, so I can have in-depth and frank conversa…

7 replies
7 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
Hey, can we schedule a time to talk about this on a zoom call ?
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Trussrod and refret

Hallo, I have an old archtop (plywood) that needed a refret. There is no trussrod. I talked to the owner, he knows that my work will maybe/eventually more expensive than the value of the guitar. But it was only after leveling the fretboard that I realized that the fret slots are completely off. I talked to the customer again, and we agreed, that I should put a new fretboard on the guitar. I have one, that I took of an old guitar, and reuse…

2 replies
2 replies
LikeShare
Private member
just for giggels: from fret to fret in mm: 33,8 32,8 28,9 29,9 28,6 24,3 24,8 23,8 22,0 19,6 19,6 19,6 (!!) 16,4 16,4 14,5 14,3 13,9 13