Hello looths! Long time lurker, first time poster here all the way from New Zealand. I have recently acquired this 2008 Martin D-35 for a very cheap price ($1000 NZD - around 600 US!) it's dried out in a very cold environment and has two substantial cracks running all the way across the top, one large side crack, and a previous side crack repair that's been done quite poorly. I'm only about 3 years in to this repair journey and this is d…
I thought I might add an outlier of an opinion here. I understand the temptation to close the cracks with higher humidity, but you're asking a lot of adhesives, reinforcements and human attention span…
Question about splines: At what point are they necessary? My question is primarily regarding the crack to the left between the bridge and the sound hole as well as the crack at the upper bout that runs along the fingerboard extension. I have already glued them both and used the TJ cleats that run the full length of the cracks. I have already splined the lower bout crack that runs from the bridge to the binding as it was super gappy and d…
Im 6'-6" with hands to match. I can squeeze my hands into most flattops, but a friend asked me to look at his 1930's Tiple. It has multiple back cracks that I can get to with props and TJ's crack system, but there are also plenty of loose braces. Looks like I've got to pop the back off, but I feel the long back cracks should be stabilized first. Would you hesitate removing the back? or is there a way to address the loose braces from out…
Those are pretty small, but I think you can get those glued with sound hole clamps. I would at least try it before taking the back off. Take all the hardware off a sound hole clamp and flip one of the…
Hello, One of my commissions is coming down the pike and it's going to be my first time using bar frets. I could use a once over for any helpful tips if you have any. About the guitar: Aged HD-28 but mahogany back and sides. I think Martin called this a HD-28 M? Skipping the truss-rod and using two carbon fiber strips. My process for Frets: 1: I CNC my fingerboards to a 16" radius and for T-frets I use a .023" to cut slots with a mat…
Depending on the carbon fiber strips and the gauge of string, you're compression may be moot, or at the very least, a fairly subtle factor. I would do a lot of testing before you glue the neck on to t…
So this 310 came into the shop and had a pretty gnarly crack that splinters some toward the lower left bout. Going to do a crack repair with the TJ Thompson crack corrector and some hide glue. The issue I'm inquiring about is the finish is delaminating around the area. I'm curious as to what type of finish it is. Seems a bit flexible and spongy to be a nitro alone. There's shards of finish missing, and dirt has found its way underneath…
I recently picked up an inexpensive acoustic with a belly bulge and lifting bridge for some repair practice. I got the bridge off and used the TJ Thompson belly reducer to reduce a lot of the bulge. However, some of the wood stuck to the bridge during removal and the wood left on the guitar is now uneven and has some chipping. Should I remove the wood from the bridge, carefully remove wood from the top of the guitar to get the bridge area…
I have a couple pallet knifes that I filed and abraded a long, thin edge just for situations like this. After the bridge is removed I clamp it to a flat plate with a damp paper towel between the bridge…
Gerry Hayes Haze GuitarsVideoRepair and RestorationLite
