Hey guys, does anybody know of a good alternative to mixol? I use it in lacquer for mixing opaque colors and it's great but I've been on the lookout for something more affordable and haven't had much luck. Wondering if anybody here knows of anything.
Thanks!
It used to be the colortone pigments from stewmac that were quite good and didn't require a ton of material to go to opaque. It seems like we are left with just Mixol for guitar grade pigments that wo…
I am working on an article to post here on the Looth Group regarding the history, and problems, with scale temperament. In the process, I asked Claude about a particular point, and Claude gave me a quote that perfectly encapsulated the concept I was exploring. I asked Claude to provide the specific citation for the quote. Claude fessed up to outright misrepresentation. Probably nothing new here, but I thought it was worth sharing.…
P1 reply
1 reply
LikeShare
PPrivate member
There's a really cool book, not specifically about intonation but dives deeply into it, called Harmonic Experience by W.A Mathieu. Highly recommended. Cheapish used.
Hello — I would like to finish a mahogany electric neck and body with wipe on poly (probably Minwax satin) and would like to pore fill with Z-Poxy. I can’t find a definitive word on their compatibility.
- Can I just wipe on the poly coats after block sanding the 2-3 Z-Poxy coats?
- Should the Z-Poxy be sanded all the way back to wood or just smoothed/flattened?
- Is a coat of unwaxed shellac between the Z-Poxy and the wipe in…
PPP3 replies
3 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
I personally like to do a washout of shellac just in case.
Greetings fellow Looths! I recently received a request from a customer to replicate Kurt Cobains 59 Martin, starting with a Sigma DM3. I have pasted the customers email to me below. While I have been a looth hobbyist for many years, I just recently opened my official business, Finger Lakes Guitar Works, and am just getting off the ground and a good flow of repair work is already coming in. While I feel 100% confident in my abilities to…
Seems kinda annoying to me. The guy wants to spend a ton of money building a replica of a guitar but he's going to not use a guitar by the actual brand to do it? I'm going to go with this is going t…
Is anyone using the LuthierTool Neck Angle Jig. I have a quick question about setting up to cut the tenon and getting the correct angle dialed in for cutting the heel block. TIA for any help
Greetings and thanks in advance for your help.
I live in one of the most inhospitable places in the world for wood storage (Mojave Desert CA) and later this year will be moving to another more inhospitable place (Sonoran Desert, Buckeye AZ). The realative humidity is currently 16% and that will drop when summer comes.
I'm attempting to collect and store wood for future builds and today I spent some time wrapping all of it in seran…
Where is the wood at in cure right now ? Is it ready to build ? One thing we did at Breedlove (Oregon desert and quite dry) was wax the end grain before stickering. I'm not an expert on wood storage, b…
The Artisan Guitar Show this weekend gave me a kick in the behind to get back to more promoting of the builds I'm doing. Here's my first try doing multiply binding, and it turned out pretty well
PP4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
Thanks! I don't know if Ally from StewMac has an account here, but her talk at the AGS this past weekend gave me the motivation to get back to more content-as-marketing.
I’m a pretty recent guitar maker. When I retired in 2019, I had to keep very busy and making guitars was my answer. As time rolled on I became more and more involved (ie; anal). As I age , I realize I keep making little errors. I forget a step or don’t use the right procedure. My son, an MD, told me to do what pilots do. That is a check list in chronological order. It’s worked wonders. I think I’ve cut my error rate in half!
P2 replies
2 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
About a hundred steps. Some just take a few seconds and some take all day. Like " sand back and sides to 320 grit."
Hi everyone,
I'm Martino from Hub of Acoustics, a collaborative project created by luthiers for luthiers. Our goal is to explore and teach acoustic principles that are directly relevant to instrument making.
In 2026, we’ll be running four courses in different parts of the world, all focused on giving luthiers practical tools to better understand and control the acoustics of their instruments.
We’re excited to introduce our very…
I have a set of bubinga for an acoustic back, but one piece had a slight cup that made it difficult to work with for joining together. This is pre-thicknessed, with the piece at 4.5 mm thick. I tried wetting and heating it, as I do for sides, and pressed it flat during the process. I heated it to 300 degrees F, and then let it cool while pressed, and the cup got substantially worse.
I then pressed it into a reverse cup using a radius…
PPP9 replies
9 replies
LikeShare
PPrivate member
To get the nice figure in Bubinga, ordinarily the board is flat sawn. That greatly increases the likelihood of cupping. If you are able to flatten out the cup enough to joint the 2 pieces and thickn…