I am building an archtop mandocello (A style) and I'm trying to find out how to make the neck block. It would be more or less like an A style mandolin neck block, but obviously quite a lot bigger. More or less like the image attached. The blank should be aprox 10 x 8 x 12 cm. I'm trying to find a piece of hardwood big enough for this, would it be acceptable if I made some kind of laminated piece? And how should the grain direction be idea…
The traditional A style mandocello neckblocks were mahogany. There are some really good reasons for laminating them because there are forces on the block that make any single grain orientation a damne…
So it seems that a drum sander would be very handy for many parts of a "build from scratch". There are a few out there that cost under $3000.00 that can handle wood up to 4" thick and are wide enough to sand a back or top after the halves have been joined. Jet JWD-22-44 open stand, 22"width Jet JWDS-2550 open stand, 25" width SuperMax 19-38 opend stand, 19" width SuperMas 25-50 closed stand, 25" width Questions: Any recomendations on the sa…
I have the SuperMax 16-32. Works very well. I have experience using an older Jet model. A few things about the SuperMax: The paper changing system is much easier. The quick release feature to raise/l…
(for background context, I'm probably in the dozens of fret jobs so far, and no I don't let frets leave my house like this) When I got started getting interested in building guitars, I got the StewMac bundle of fret files/book, which comes with the concave toothed file. Over time, I ended up getting both the Narrow/Medium and Wide/Jumbo files. I don't do it often, but occasionally I do something like shown in the picture, where I'm clearl…
What you're depicting in the picture above is what typically happens when a hollow (toothed or diamond grit) file that is too small for the size of fret us used to try and introduce a crown to fret th…
Just posted a full build video for the last mandolin batch over on YouTube. Give it a watch folks, its 25 mins long. And there should be a few woodworking tips there for some of you, and some lovely tunes all played on my work.
I'm using hide glue on this 1st build. So far I've glued up the kerfing, back braces, and the top "X" brace. I'm using the 190 grade glue. Working time is short at best. I heated the top "X" brace surfaces (brace & top) with a blow dryer and that seemed to help, a little.
How can I get enough working time to glue the top, and then later the back, without having to rush and creating a real mess in the process?
Suggestions and reco…
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I make a "hot hut" out of my go-bar deck by draping a large piece of vapor barrier plastic over it. Use clothes pins, or spring clamps to clamp areas shut around it. I then place a small space heate…
So the first real "full build" I'm doing is a Stewmac 000 kit. I was wondering about the back brace shape.
I'll was planning to taper the ends at the side joint to about 1.5mm.
Should I do some scalloping of the braces?
Suggestions and comments are welcomed and appreciated.
Regards,
Gerry
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There's nothing "wrong" with what you have pictured but it lacks some finesse. There are soooo many variables in play to worry about for a first build. If you want to practice some skills in this st…
Good evening folks,
lately I'm experiencing some sanding methods/mechanism frustration. Can't explain better than look like I'm regressing at doing it.
The only thing changed in my building routine is that I'm currently using a CNC (I haven't used one for some years) for both bodies and necks. I have no problems with necks, but sanding bodies has become incredibly frustrating, specially around the edges.
While I keep improving my c…
Hey all.
I apologize if this type of post isn't allowed here but wanted to share anyway.
I've been building a tool called Looth specifically for luthiers and repair techs, and I'm looking for a small group of interested looths to help shape it a bit more before it goes public.
I got tired of managing spreadsheets and decided that it could be simpler and more automated.
The core idea is simple: one place to track every build…
Greetings fellow Looths! I recently received a request from a customer to replicate Kurt Cobains 59 Martin, starting with a Sigma DM3. I have pasted the customers email to me below. While I have been a looth hobbyist for many years, I just recently opened my official business, Finger Lakes Guitar Works, and am just getting off the ground and a good flow of repair work is already coming in. While I feel 100% confident in my abilities to…
Seems kinda annoying to me. The guy wants to spend a ton of money building a replica of a guitar but he's going to not use a guitar by the actual brand to do it? I'm going to go with this is going t…
Guitar neck topology is worth going microscopic. 🔬🦠 After building my starting surface from a wireframe network in the sketch environment; a system of 4-degree control point spline rails, tangent to projected isoparametric curves along the shaft — I can convert the NURBS surface to a T-Spline and start cleaning up the artifacts left behind by the original loft. In this demo I’m turning on Box Display, which feels strange at first because…
Greetings and thanks in advance for your help.
I live in one of the most inhospitable places in the world for wood storage (Mojave Desert CA) and later this year will be moving to another more inhospitable place (Sonoran Desert, Buckeye AZ). The realative humidity is currently 16% and that will drop when summer comes.
I'm attempting to collect and store wood for future builds and today I spent some time wrapping all of it in seran…
Where is the wood at in cure right now ? Is it ready to build ? One thing we did at Breedlove (Oregon desert and quite dry) was wax the end grain before stickering. I'm not an expert on wood storage, b…