The Hub

Dovetail was 9/16” deep, and 1 9/16” wide at the back. 15th fret was 1 mm tail side of the end of the dovetail socket but a slight angulation towards the headstock landed in the right place. Hide glue, released easily. Nice everyday player, finish and binding beautiful, good spruce top, warped poplar neck.

The archived video and recent Council of Elders were very helpful in upping my binding reattachment game. Now I need to correct how much I've been charging! Someone mentioned that Martin pays $90/individual separation, I believe regardless of the length of the separation. Does this include finish repair, if needed? Any other guidelines on pricing for binding reattachment will be appreciated. Thanks! Neil

Hi all, I got a Do Santos DSMSCC RC in shop, the Spanish heel has failed , or rather collapsed into the soundboard, splitting it on both sides along the grain, a broken brace just under the fingerboard extension , cracks on both sides on the top/side bindings, I measured wood humidity on the fingerboard 9% and inside the (very inaccessible) body 11% The normal procedure would be to re-humidify before jacking or clamping back into place ,…

Question about splines: At what point are they necessary? My question is primarily regarding the crack to the left between the bridge and the sound hole as well as the crack at the upper bout that runs along the fingerboard extension. I have already glued them both and used the TJ cleats that run the full length of the cracks. I have already splined the lower bout crack that runs from the bridge to the binding as it was super gappy and d…

I have a Kalamazoo made epiphone with the most extreme fingerboard ramp I have seen. I have the neck dead straight from 1st fret to body joint and get a 1/16 of gap when I run a straight edge from 1st fret to the last fret. The frets average .040" but someone leveled the extension and those frets are half the height. Does anyone have any suggestions for flattening the extension. Clamping a block on it? If I level the board during a r…

Hello again folks, how is everyone! So I'm curious about what people here think about re-tops, who's done them, and what sorta ballpark rates you've charged for past completed jobs. I've got a bit of a wild one here, so strap in if you've got a couple minutes for story time! Back in 2012, I traded an HD28V of mine for a cool 1966 D-35 that needed some work. Basically, the body and neck of the guitar were fine apart from…

Good afternoon all. I have started the process of removing all the binding from the old Country Gentleman and it's going well. I did discover after removing the strings that the neck is pretty loose and moves around quite a bit (no surprises there). I removed the black plug on the back side of the body then removed the large regular (slot) screw that holds the neck in place. I thought the neck would just slide out considering how loose…

Just sharing some info to procrastinate my nth attempt at getting this thing together. and some venting. If you get one of these in with electronic issues, estimate high. Customer brought in a Gretsch Rally in pieces that he picked up from the last repairman (who died), and just wants it to play. Minor binding repair and a weirdly-angled zero fret were relatively easy to deal with. The dead electronics are the main problem.…

Someone recently contacted me about a Gretsch in need of some finish repairs on the binding. This looks to be nitro that has chipped/flaked off over the years and possibly yellowed by nicotine. I'm curious if any of you have experience with this type of repair and what the best way would be to go about it. I'm not anticipating taking this on but I would be interested in knowing the procedure. Thanks! Images

Need some guidance for binding repairs. I'm using the "Martin method" using CA glue and tape for re-attaching the binding. From there: Scrape glue 400 grit to level Brushing on Lacquer 400 grit to level Meguiars #1 Meguiars #3 Meguiars #7 All by hand. But I recently purchased a Proxxon hand polisher. I'm still getting big marks. Its usually "ok", but I'm noticing huge swirls. Not pro. I do not have the money/space for…

I'm replacing the top on an old Stella with white painted "binding." Wondering what kind of paint I should use to come close to the original and be stable under finish. Images

Hello, I accidentally sawed through a binding during a refret. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Hello everyone, I use a Stewmac japanese fretsaw (which produces .023" wide fretslots, matching the width of the tang of stewmac wire) to recut my slots on refrets. The saw does a good job making the slots deeper, but struggles to make them wider and binds like crazy throughout the process. I think that is due to it not having enough (or any) set, so in theory it only cut downwards and does a poor job removing material from the slot wall…

Looking for some guidance here – I have a 1973 Jazz Bass with maple fretboard and fretboard binding in for a re-fret. The finish is of course built up thick and crackly along the frets, and although they’re not seated too nicely, the first few came out really tough and chippy even after scoring the finish really well. I’m aware that Fenders were fretted sideways until 1982, but because of the binding, pushing them out sideways is not an…

New Youtube video tutorial on how to thoroughly repair Martin Binding failures.

I had someone comment on my Instagram page that they are having trouble finding anyone to do a Martin binding repair for them. I told him I'd post something here. Please comment if you would do that and I'll send your info to him.