The Hub

Love the new look and navigation. Good work. I do miss the Video Archive Page as it was a constant reference source for me. Is there a way to those links that I am not seeing.

Hey everyone, I'm a technician at a music production school in London. As the most 'guitariest' technician on staff, I've become the de facto guitar maintenance person. A big part of my work is taking a look at each guitar once a week. Usually my "routine" is to check action and intonation, making adjustments if needed, then cleaning/polishing. The thing I struggle with the most is getting strings feeling good. We use D'Addario…

My wall worksheet I look at everyday. If you can think of any other common info that would be helpful to add let me know. Also, i can email the PDF if you message me. It wouldn't allow me to upload it here.

Hey everyone, I wanted to do a bit of a follow up on a repair I'm doing. A customer brought in a Seagull acoustic guitar that had been dropped, causing the heel block to separate. I managed to get that glued back together with pleasing results, however I did need to take the neck off by removing the two bolts which thread into the heel block, and unglued the fretboard extension. All went well here, although I'm left with a situation whe…

Does anybody have any cool tricks to get a closer rough in saddle height when making a new saddle without the option of referencing the old one? Ex: replacing a lost saddle, making a saddle after a neck reset, making a saddle for a new bridge

Hey guys, a little help? I'm trying to recreate the old PRS wiring (rotary switch) but instead of the rotary, on a 5-way superswitch. I managed to get almost everything but I can't seem to figure out the series/parallel positions and it's starting to hurt the brain. I've looked everywhere online but I can't find exactly what I need. Here's the image of the positions I need, for reference.

So, I made a modular clamp based on the split clamp idea. Started on a prototype about two months ago and finished it. What I was aiming for was a clamp that I could use on the BOTTOM of acoustic guitars as well as tops to clamp cracks, cleats, braces, patches etc. Especially a clamp that would access small openings like "F" holes, small sound holes etc. Essentially a way to get a clamp to areas not accessible to jacks, wedges etc.,…

Wondering what methods people use for tracing the shape of a cavity to make new covers, backplates, or switch-plates? Attaching a photo example of a battery cavity that's missing a cover and wondering what the best way would be to trace and reference the size so I can transfer it to a cardboard cutout and eventually cut a piece of wood to cover the cavity?

Hey y’all, I’m looking for a looth in the Los Angeles area to take on a Martin neck reset. I took it in from a friend but I don’t have enough practice doing neck resets and would like to refer it to someone who knows Martins well. Who would you guys recommend? Thanks

Hey Looths! I've got a potential customer in New Mexico who wants to ship me his Carvin bass to my area, Nashville, TN, for some repair work. He was referred by another customer. He reached out to me because he lives in a very rural area and guitar repair folks are scarce. I'll gladly accept the job, but I'm hoping we may have a local solution for him. Is there anyone in this amazing group close to Artesia, New Mexico? Thanks!

I’m working on a 1920’s Regal with an ebonized fingerboard. I’ve seen these referred to as “ebonized pearwood,” but all I know is it’s worn through to a light wood, definitely much softer and grainier than maple. I want to keep the finger wear through the ebonizing, but build up a little layer of protection. Boiled linseed oil seems ideal for this. However, I’ve heard boiled linseed oil doesn’t react well with tannins. Tannins may be pa…

Hello, Help needed please! 🙏 It’s a Washburn g10v that I am trying to source parts for. The owner wants to do a full restore but we can’t move forward with the job as the trem is missing the micro tuner thumb nuts. The trem is a big old rare thing with 2001 on the edge of it. Please see picture for reference. (Taken from reditt, a common problem it looks like) I have one of the thumb nuts here and I think it’s a #no.5 -44 UNF thread. But it’s…

First time here on the forums, not sure how often I'll check in, but thought this the best place to post it. Was playing with an idea proposed by Buck Van Laarhoven on a parametric model for bolt-on neck shims, and found the formulas I wrote up translated easily to Taylor and conventional acoustic neck joints so decided to add boxes for those as well. I'm not well versed in Google Sheets, but couldn't see a way to upload the file direct…

This is an early 80's Jester. The only identification is the label inside which appears to show the model number as ACW160, though I've only seen reference to model W160 online. There is scant information about Jester guitars online, and some of it seems inconsistent. This was most likely made in either Holland or Romania. Online information indicated that this would have a dowelled neck joint, but it clearly doesn't. This was a very di…

Dear ladies and gentlemen, I was assembling the latest build early this evening, and I could not stop thinking about how could I do better. Which is a good thing you may think, but in the today era of social media where you can basically follow every of your inspiration as a guitar builder you, well at least certainly me, cannot stop thinking about 'how X can be so damn consistent on every build?' So I started to wondering if its actually…