The Hub

The latest builds, repairs, and conversations from across Looth. Activity
Filters AND Search Methods× Type Loothcuts× Type Discussions× In Repair & Restoration× Reset all
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Splines: When are they necessary?

Question about splines: At what point are they necessary? My question is primarily regarding the crack to the left between the bridge and the sound hole as well as the crack at the upper bout that runs along the fingerboard extension. I have already glued them both and used the TJ cleats that run the full length of the cracks. I have already splined the lower bout crack that runs from the bridge to the binding as it was super gappy and d…

1 reply
1 reply
LikeShare
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

Washburn Neck Reset

I am working on a neck reset on a Washburn Parlor - SN 283552. I have read that the 28 in the SN indicates that is was built in 1928, but the owner thinks based on her research that it was built before 1920. I am assuming a dovetail joint and that I can get into the neck joint for steaming by drilling into the 13th fret slot, but if anyone knows differently please let me know. The fingerboard extension has already separated slightly…

8 replies
8 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
Love the truss rod let in to the top!
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Open string sitar buzz after nut slot work

Hi all, new to nut slot work world, please can you help me with this mystery? fret levelling, neck relief and string action adjustment all completed to Fender 9.5" radius spec. very happy with that. the next step: 0.011” High E string’s nut slot was a bit low. I used Dave Johnson’s (MI Guitar Craft Academy) “q-tip slot raising method”: the pulled cotton strand, plus extra thin CA glue, to fill the slot, then trim it off once dry,…

5 replies
5 replies
LikeShare
Private member
i always use a nut file that is the closest size up from the string gauge. i used a 13 gauge file for an 11 gauge string, and 16 gauge file for a 14 gauge string
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Cleaning methods and products.

Hi to everyone does anybody knows about products related to the setup. I mean cleaning products that you can use instead of only use the Maguires products or any other products related to the cleaning process. For example I usually use the yellow shampoo from maguires and also the Triplex Carnaubba Wax from the chemical guys. Any clues ?

3 replies
3 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Trogly shared his method for cleaning the guitars that he has on his YouTube channel. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6aKEj3v2xzE I don't recall what products he uses, but he does get good results.
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Methods for aging a new acoustic bridge?

Hey all, Anyone have any go-to methods for making new replacement bridges look old? I’m about to make a new bridge for a relatively beat up 40’s Martin and contemplating ways to make it look more the part. With the replacements I’ve made up to this point I’ve always just sanded em real smooth, micromesh, oil, wax etc. I’m thinking maybe a wire brush prior to sanding for that shrunken grain look? The new bridge will be Indian rosewood. T…

2 replies
2 replies
LikeShare
Private member
You can try raising the grain a little with a damp paper towel. I wouldn't got too wet. Mirlon 2500 pad is my go to for knocking down the sheen. Add dents to your liking. Find a reference photo a…
Private member DiscussionFinish Repair

Binding Repair & Polish Followup

Need some guidance for binding repairs. I'm using the "Martin method" using CA glue and tape for re-attaching the binding. From there: Scrape glue 400 grit to level Brushing on Lacquer 400 grit to level Meguiars #1 Meguiars #3 Meguiars #7 All by hand. But I recently purchased a Proxxon hand polisher. I'm still getting big marks. Its usually "ok", but I'm noticing huge swirls. Not pro. I do not have the money/space for…

4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
Private member
I suspect your issue stems from not sanding to a high enough grit before polishing. Check out Eagle Abrasives "Assilex" dry papers. Stew Mac has them. Not cheap, but they last a long time. You can…
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Neck Spline jig recommendations

Hey all - I've got a couple Gibson headstock repair investments that I'd like to practice inserting splines for reinforcement (or I may go the backstrap method..tbd). Do you have any jig recommendations or preferences? I've only seen the G&W option (which looks awesome), several ebay knock-offs and lots of DIY jigs. I welcome your feedback. Thanks and all the best, Chris

2 replies
2 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
I think this is my favorite. It's not my favorite technique overall, but this version, with the long splines that extend WAY past the transition of the neck is the best. https://mcconvilleguitars.blo…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

1950s Gibson LG-3

Hi, I have a 1950's Gibson LG-3 that's had some poor work done to the spruce under the area of the bridge where the spruce has pulled away and or been sanded excessively. It's missing about .020-0.30 thou of spruce and I'm wondering/looking for advice about how to go about splicing in a thin piece of spruce before I re-glue the bridge. Please see pictures attached. My main questions are: glues for the patch, should the patch be mitered…

8 replies
8 replies
LikeShare
Private member
When faced with a similar job recently, I chose to glue the patch in place with epoxy, then used hide glue to reset the bridge. The logic being that 20 years from now when someone needs to reset the…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

1975 Yamaha FG200J Neck Reset

Before I hack into the Yamaha, I would like to get the opinion of the experts on a method of steaming the upper end of the guitar and ‘pressing’ the neck down to adjust the angle back to factory. There are several you-tubers that have tried and recommend it. My novice intuition is that even though it may work, wont the steaming of other areas of the body such as upper braces, etc, end up weakening the construction (glue stability) to…

4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Thanks for all of the inputs. I am going to order the foam cutter package. I will try to post some pics of the FG200J. In the meantime, I just got done doing a neck reset of a crappy Fender that ha…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Cleaning under loose braces

I am looking for new ideas on tools or methods for cleaning under partially loose braces to insure a good glue joint. In the past I've tried flossing with sandpaper, using the metal cutting edge from a wax paper box, maybe some extra thin files. In this job, one of the loose braces is up against the bridge plate, so it's impossible to pass something all the way through. The loose parts are marked with the red ellipses.

6 replies
6 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Widening fretslots

Hello everyone, I use a Stewmac japanese fretsaw (which produces .023" wide fretslots, matching the width of the tang of stewmac wire) to recut my slots on refrets. The saw does a good job making the slots deeper, but struggles to make them wider and binds like crazy throughout the process. I think that is due to it not having enough (or any) set, so in theory it only cut downwards and does a poor job removing material from the slot wall…

11 replies
11 replies
LikeShare
Private member
My fretboards are done with a table saw & correct SM blade, if i need to touch them up after radius i go between the jap saw & regular one sm sells. yellow wax to stop them from sticking when cutting…
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Strange Fender neck with some problems.

Hello fellow looths! I recently had a customer come in with a '71 Fender neck that is a fusion of the 60s and 70s style. It has a veneer fretboard, no skunkstripe, 4 screwholes, 70s style tuners, 70s headstock logo, and it seems like it has a poly finish on the back of the neck, and nitro (with cracking) on the front of the headstock. Can anyone tell me if this combination is possible or could it be fake? Another thing is, even without th…

5 replies
5 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Hey Tony, thank you for your info, and sorry for the late reply. I don't spend much time in the loothgroup.. You have an amazing setup! The sheetmetal underneath is genius! I have to build something li…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

How would you approach a neck reset where the heel has already cracked?

I have a red-label Yamaha FG-180 that’s in overall nice condition, but the neck angle is poor and the heel is already cracked. I’d like to attempt a neck reset, but I’m unsure how to proceed given the existing crack. Should I approach the reset as usual, or plan an alternate method because of the damage? Has anyone here tackled a reset on a guitar with a pre-existing heel crack? I know a crack can develop during the reset process, but I…

4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Hi Nathan. Here are the dovetail measurements from the FG75. Don't know if they're the same but may get you in the ballpark.
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

71 SG Body/Neck Joint Cracks

It was only a matter of time before one of these arrived on my bench. The neck on this 71 SG Deluxe is caving through to the neck pickup cavity— In a similar fashion to what happens on old jr’s. Both sides of the cutaway have cracks that extend through to the pickup route and I can flex them easily. Problem is that the cracks are not straight and wander all over. I worry about being able to get enough glue in there because of this. Thin…

5 replies
5 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
I'm not sure what that would get you other than access to more gluing surface, which aint nothing, but unless you have some whack-a-doo grain orientation, isn't why that broke in the first place. Also…
Private member DiscussionShare Your Repair Content

Humbucker Cover Removal - An Alternative Method

In this video, I show an alternative way to remove humbucker covers with no soldering required. Check it out and enjoy!

LikeShare
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Tracing and Transferring Cavity Covers

Wondering what methods people use for tracing the shape of a cavity to make new covers, backplates, or switch-plates? Attaching a photo example of a battery cavity that's missing a cover and wondering what the best way would be to trace and reference the size so I can transfer it to a cardboard cutout and eventually cut a piece of wood to cover the cavity?

4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
Ian Davlin
In the old days I would have done an etching. Tape off the paper really tight and then use mechanical pencil to rub around the edge. Now I would lay that on my office printer with a 6 inch rule, scan…
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Repairing recessed jack hole 🕳️

Hello fellow looths ! I'm deciding on a repair method for the jack recessed/angled hole on this Aria Pro SB bass. What kind of direction would you take ?

4 replies
4 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Thanks guys ! I'll definitly add wood thickness and use a longer jack then !
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Please share your processes for cracks that need splints

Hello good people, My shop’s in Quebec City, so I get to repair an ungodly amount of cracks thanks to our brutal winter and customers being largely unaware of the requirements of maintaining proper RH. Now for the first time (call me lucky) I have two very good guitars in the shop whose cracks won't close up after having been rehumidified for a few weeks. I have tried over-humidifying and it does it, but once returned to proper RH (50%)…

14 replies
14 replies
LikeShare
Private member
Thanks Dave, I'll dive back into Pat's book to see if he covers his technique in there.