I am repairing a damaged Stella parlor guitar. The original top was birch, plain sawn at 0.100 inches thick, ladder braced with multiple beefy braces and irreparably split, warped and generally separated from the sides. I want to keep the instrument ladder braced with a movable bridge and upgraded tailpiece, all firsts for me. I would be grateful for input on 2 issues. 1. The new top is Adirondack spruce that I’ve reduced to about 0.110…
I don't have much to add but I am working on the exact same guitar at the moment and had a question. How did you get the neck off? I'm doing one of my first few neck removals on this and it isn't seem…
Let me start with this; I'm trying to find the root cause of difficult fret wire installation of two different SM fret wires. I've spent a lot of time gathering dimensions and experimenting with techniques wich could cause the problem. I enlisted the help of a colleague who arrived at a similar poor performance. His solution was to glue the fret ends/ beat the frets in. My "rather" is to find the root cause so I don't have to go thr…
Matching the fretwire to the fret slots (and visa-versa) is a huge subject. Dan and I did an entire episode of the Dan and Doug Show just on fret slots. I'll be revisiting the subject of fretwork in…
All - looking for recommendations on overall approach for repairing this nasty side crack right at the edge of the tail block. My initial thought is that either the top or the back needs to come off in order to properly glue and clamp the main split.
Thanks in advance.
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I use a file or a sanding block. I fit the new side by pulling sandpaper (like on a neck reset) to start and then finish with a little bit of chalk and futzing. You could pull the tailblock inlay and…
I'm using hide glue on this 1st build. So far I've glued up the kerfing, back braces, and the top "X" brace. I'm using the 190 grade glue. Working time is short at best. I heated the top "X" brace surfaces (brace & top) with a blow dryer and that seemed to help, a little.
How can I get enough working time to glue the top, and then later the back, without having to rush and creating a real mess in the process?
Suggestions and reco…
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I make a "hot hut" out of my go-bar deck by draping a large piece of vapor barrier plastic over it. Use clothes pins, or spring clamps to clamp areas shut around it. I then place a small space heate…
Good morning everyone,
it is been a while since I wanted to replace my glue (standard Titebond) with epoxy. The best I can find in EU, and specifically in Italy, is the West System 105 with 206 hardeners.
Is it any good for fretboard and top gluing or neck gluing? For all the other small task, like top jointing etc I'll still use Titebond or polyurethane glue.
Thanks!
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I mostly build flat tops and the occasional archtop. I use titebond to join tops and backs and have used the superbond to glue cocobolo in the past. I would have no objection to using the superbond…
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Hi all!
I was wondering if anyone knew how to source a Stelling tailpiece or knew of what would fit? I have a White Star model that came in with one that's broken. I tried their website and I just get errors and I understand Geoff Stelling retired a few years back.
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I have a Favilla Classical guitar on the bench, in for a bridge reglue. This is a low to mid-range classical guitar, made circa 1960, and it's an heirloom guitar for the customer, he basically wants it back in playing shape. The story is that he went away on vacation, and when he returned the bridge had delaminated from the top and took a fair amount of finish with it. It also appears that someone attempted to glob on superglue at some…
Good evening folks,
lately I'm experiencing some sanding methods/mechanism frustration. Can't explain better than look like I'm regressing at doing it.
The only thing changed in my building routine is that I'm currently using a CNC (I haven't used one for some years) for both bodies and necks. I have no problems with necks, but sanding bodies has become incredibly frustrating, specially around the edges.
While I keep improving my c…
Anyone know what glue type is appropriate for a Martin DXME fretboard extension to secure it to the plastic laminate top (or whatever it is)? I have one on the bench that has broken loose, and I’m not sure what to use. I tried contacting Martin, but they won’t help since I’m not an authorized Martin repair shop. 🫤 Thanks!
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When I was trying to glue HPL to the lining, someone recommended Titebond Melamine Glue. Not sure it is appropriate for you, but worth looking into further.
Hi all,
I am a newer guitar tech and after dozens of repairs this particular Simon & Patrick Luthier Cedar top SP6 acoustic dreadnought from the 90-ies with a bolt-on maple neck has been an incredible challenge.
It came with a maxed out and stuck truss rod with a considerable up bow in the neck, extremely low saddle with barely any string break angle, so it needed a neck reset. Later on I figured out that it also has a pretty dras…
Video on Top Mapping a Master Built Robert Ruck Classical Guitar with a Magic Probe- at the end I talk about the magic probes benefit to some repair work.
Hello again folks, how is everyone!
So I'm curious about what people here think about re-tops, who's done them, and what sorta ballpark rates you've charged for past completed jobs.
I've got a bit of a wild one here, so strap in if you've got a couple minutes for story time!
Back in 2012, I traded an HD28V of mine for a cool 1966 D-35 that needed some work. Basically, the body and neck of the guitar were fine apart from…
Oh yes, it is absolutely not down to financial matters here, or I'd have abandoned it completely hahaha, I've been thinking more about it, perhaps I will take the plunge, and have a bit of silly fun w…
Hey All! I hope everyone has been loothing and living as well as possible. I'm checking in to ask for an opinion.
I have been asked to fix or improve some top sinking/splitting of a Mahogany top 1930ish L-0 that sits between the bridge and the junction of the X-brace. It's showing signs of wanting to crack further but neither seems to be all the way through the top. I have removed the bridge plate cleanly and have tried wetting the…
Hi folks. I have a Martin DX1 in for crack repairs. I was feeling around and discovered two huge cedar plates glued to the top. Many gluey fingerprints and spots which leads me to believe they aren’t stock but want to make sure before I remove them. I looked online for a bracing diagram but no luck. Does anyone have any info on this? Much appreciated !
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I think it was a ham fisted attempt to address the cracks. I just want to make sure that it wasn't since this model was a ham fisted attempt a going green like Taylor. Laminated neck, bottom and sid…
Greetings and thanks in advance for your help.
I live in one of the most inhospitable places in the world for wood storage (Mojave Desert CA) and later this year will be moving to another more inhospitable place (Sonoran Desert, Buckeye AZ). The realative humidity is currently 16% and that will drop when summer comes.
I'm attempting to collect and store wood for future builds and today I spent some time wrapping all of it in seran…
Where is the wood at in cure right now ? Is it ready to build ? One thing we did at Breedlove (Oregon desert and quite dry) was wax the end grain before stickering. I'm not an expert on wood storage, b…
I am restoring an old Supertone with a thickened and heavily alligatored finish. The finish softens quickly with acetone, and it looks like it has had an overspray. I would like to keep the staining on the oak back and sides, and to preserve the decal on the headstock. The top I would like to strip and sand.
The questions are:
1. What more do I need to know about the finish?
2. How should I remove the finish or at least thin/smooth…
I don’t see much evidence of overspray. The headstock looks to be in decent shape. I’d just leave it unless the finish is actively falling off. One thing you might try on the top before refin is Mohaw…
I have repaired numerous top crack on this instrument built by a customer at a guitar building camp. The bridge was off and warped. That has been addressed. After gluing with hide glue and splining the crack these top two did not closed as much as I would have liked. The bigger is about 1/32 at the widest and the other about 1/64. The crack is tight at the bottom. If I can help it I would like to fill it rather than spline it as I have…
I am pretty good at touch up on darker to med woods and air brushing some solid color touchups on electrics but as you said spruce tops with gloss are near impossible. I was hoping to maybe clean it…