Great video @member Hello People! Thanks for joining me for this binding repair video! We're working on a '72 Chet Atkins Nashville and a '60 Chet Atkins Country Gentleman. Cheers, Scotty D., Harpeth Guitar Restoration, LLC. Nashville, Tennessee
The archived video and recent Council of Elders were very helpful in upping my binding reattachment game. Now I need to correct how much I've been charging! Someone mentioned that Martin pays $90/individual separation, I believe regardless of the length of the separation. Does this include finish repair, if needed? Any other guidelines on pricing for binding reattachment will be appreciated. Thanks! Neil
They pay $90 for binding repair “with touchup” and $80 without. Basically they always send the authorization for “with touchup” and never ask if it actually needs touchup. I tell customers “you dont w…
Hi all, I got a Do Santos DSMSCC RC in shop, the Spanish heel has failed , or rather collapsed into the soundboard, splitting it on both sides along the grain, a broken brace just under the fingerboard extension , cracks on both sides on the top/side bindings, I measured wood humidity on the fingerboard 9% and inside the (very inaccessible) body 11% The normal procedure would be to re-humidify before jacking or clamping back into place ,…
Question about splines: At what point are they necessary? My question is primarily regarding the crack to the left between the bridge and the sound hole as well as the crack at the upper bout that runs along the fingerboard extension. I have already glued them both and used the TJ cleats that run the full length of the cracks. I have already splined the lower bout crack that runs from the bridge to the binding as it was super gappy and d…
I have a Kalamazoo made epiphone with the most extreme fingerboard ramp I have seen. I have the neck dead straight from 1st fret to body joint and get a 1/16 of gap when I run a straight edge from 1st fret to the last fret. The frets average .040" but someone leveled the extension and those frets are half the height.
Does anyone have any suggestions for flattening the extension. Clamping a block on it? If I level the board during a r…
I found a pic which helped me see the situation. I think what I was mentioning before would work well. It looks like it would be easy to separate the short length of the fingerboard from the extensio…
Hello again folks, how is everyone!
So I'm curious about what people here think about re-tops, who's done them, and what sorta ballpark rates you've charged for past completed jobs.
I've got a bit of a wild one here, so strap in if you've got a couple minutes for story time!
Back in 2012, I traded an HD28V of mine for a cool 1966 D-35 that needed some work. Basically, the body and neck of the guitar were fine apart from…
Oh yes, it is absolutely not down to financial matters here, or I'd have abandoned it completely hahaha, I've been thinking more about it, perhaps I will take the plunge, and have a bit of silly fun w…
Just sharing some info to procrastinate my nth attempt at getting this thing together. and some venting. If you get one of these in with electronic issues, estimate high.
Customer brought in a Gretsch Rally in pieces that he picked up from the last repairman (who died), and just wants it to play. Minor binding repair and a weirdly-angled zero fret were relatively easy to deal with. The dead electronics are the main problem.…
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I would even consider using 2.5mm TRS or TRRS connectors. (Similar to what Guitar Fetish uses on their pickups.) That would allow modularity of the components, and even easier installation. Only drawb…
Someone recently contacted me about a Gretsch in need of some finish repairs on the binding. This looks to be nitro that has chipped/flaked off over the years and possibly yellowed by nicotine. I'm curious if any of you have experience with this type of repair and what the best way would be to go about it. I'm not anticipating taking this on but I would be interested in knowing the procedure. Thanks!
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Need some guidance for binding repairs.
I'm using the "Martin method" using CA glue and tape for re-attaching the binding.
From there:
Scrape glue
400 grit to level
Brushing on Lacquer
400 grit to level
Meguiars #1
Meguiars #3
Meguiars #7
All by hand.
But I recently purchased a Proxxon hand polisher.
I'm still getting big marks. Its usually "ok", but I'm noticing huge swirls. Not pro.
I do not have the money/space for…
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I suspect your issue stems from not sanding to a high enough grit before polishing. Check out Eagle Abrasives "Assilex" dry papers. Stew Mac has them. Not cheap, but they last a long time. You can…
I'm replacing the top on an old Stella with white painted "binding." Wondering what kind of paint I should use to come close to the original and be stable under finish.
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+1 to what Erik said about mixol. You can dirty it up by adding a little brown (lightly) pigment here and there and some dye ambered lacquer to simulate the aged clear coat.
Doug Proper - Guitar Specialist, Inc.VideoRepair and RestorationLite
I had someone comment on my Instagram page that they are having trouble finding anyone to do a Martin binding repair for them. I told him I'd post something here. Please comment if you would do that and I'll send your info to him.
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I should be able to do it. Chalmers Guitar Repair. Citrus Heights, about 1/2 hr from Sacramento. Thanks- Carl
Im going to attach some photos of a 000-style guitar from Potomac(I believe an Eastman product) that has some top cracks and deformation around the neck block from what I assume to be a shift of the neck block. How do you all approach repairs like this. Im thinking that pulling the neck and somehow pushing the block back into place from the inside is about the right course of action, but if anyone has some advice, Id appreciate it! In th…
Pulling the neck would probably be the best move for absolute bullet proofedness. Chances are high that this was put together with some kind of titebond variant and the joint between the top and the n…