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Private member DiscussionDiscussions

Magnifiers - inexpensive and invaluable tools

I am a retired dentist. One saying we had was, “You can’t fix what you can’t see.” And another was, “The day you start working with magnification will be the best and worst day of your practice.” The worst because you will see what you have been missing, and the best because you will never miss it again. So even though I have my Dan E. Model visor loupes, and my retired dental loupes on throughout the day, sometimes, it’s not enough. I pi…

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P.S. - I used it this morning to assess how complete my epoxy pore filling was. There was no guessing - I could see the evidence. You could also use your iPhone to magnify - I think on mine the magnifi…
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

1960s Silvertone archtop neck pull

Dovetail was 9/16” deep, and 1 9/16” wide at the back. 15th fret was 1 mm tail side of the end of the dovetail socket but a slight angulation towards the headstock landed in the right place. Hide glue, released easily. Nice everyday player, finish and binding beautiful, good spruce top, warped poplar neck.

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Private member DiscussionTools and Jigs

Suggest an alternative to concave fret file

(for background context, I'm probably in the dozens of fret jobs so far, and no I don't let frets leave my house like this) When I got started getting interested in building guitars, I got the StewMac bundle of fret files/book, which comes with the concave toothed file. Over time, I ended up getting both the Narrow/Medium and Wide/Jumbo files. I don't do it often, but occasionally I do something like shown in the picture, where I'm clearl…

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What you're depicting in the picture above is what typically happens when a hollow (toothed or diamond grit) file that is too small for the size of fret us used to try and introduce a crown to fret th…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Nominal Normal Thickness of Barb Thickness for a .022” Tang Wire?

Let me start with this; I'm trying to find the root cause of difficult fret wire installation of two different SM fret wires. I've spent a lot of time gathering dimensions and experimenting with techniques wich could cause the problem. I enlisted the help of a colleague who arrived at a similar poor performance. His solution was to glue the fret ends/ beat the frets in. My "rather" is to find the root cause so I don't have to go thr…

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Matching the fretwire to the fret slots (and visa-versa) is a huge subject. Dan and I did an entire episode of the Dan and Doug Show just on fret slots. I'll be revisiting the subject of fretwork in…
Private member DiscussionGeneral

When taking the ends of fret tangs off how do you guarantee not to file into fret causing perceived lift when making them flush?

Hi There, I've seen a number of jigs, Some seem like they might work with specific size frets but we all know that even same sized frets have some variances depending batch and where on the line it came off the spool. No matter how i do it I seem to scrape the bottom of the fret trying to make it perfectly flush. I've considered using small rotary round burr or cylinder and only touching the tang so if it does go to deep its…

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Here we go! The UnTangler was created exactly to deal with this issue. If you look in the loothprints library there is a LITE version you can download and print yourself, or have somebody print for yo…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Confounding Refret....

Well, I am pulling my hair out here... just did a compression fret job on a 2017 D18 Authentic 1939. Neck had severe excess relief, so I pulled the frets, planed the board flat, and got to work....done this a handfull of times, so I wasnt expecting anything out of the ordinary...... I got a handful of frets in, checked my relief by stringing up the guitar, and decided I need to keep pushing, so I got a full set of frets in and som…

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Hi Jonathan, I can feel the frustration in your original question posted. We've all had guitars that were uncooperative on our benches and it can be exasperating.Unless I mis-read your original pos…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Help needed to pinpoint my mistakes please!

Hi all, I am a newer guitar tech and after dozens of repairs this particular Simon & Patrick Luthier Cedar top SP6 acoustic dreadnought from the 90-ies with a bolt-on maple neck has been an incredible challenge. It came with a maxed out and stuck truss rod with a considerable up bow in the neck, extremely low saddle with barely any string break angle, so it needed a neck reset. Later on I figured out that it also has a pretty dras…

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Ian Davlin
I never got the video.
Private member DiscussionSELL! SELL! SELL!

Fret press for sale

I bought the StewMac fret jaws and am hoping to sell the heavy press. I can't imagine shipping it but if you're in Northwest Alabama come by and buy this from me. Buddy Guy is playing here at the end of the month and we have Jason Isbel and the Drive By Truckers playing here for Shoals Fest some time this summer.

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More pics
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Semi-hemi fret question

For those of you who regularly do semi-hemispherical frets -- how long do you make your frets? Specifically for a bound fretboard (although I suppose this would apply to either bound or unbound) do your frets come up a little short of the outside edge of the binding? And if so, how much gap do you leave? I did my first semi-hemis on a new build and made them end flush with the outside edge of the bindings, but it doesn't feel right.…

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Thanks for adding the visual. So if there weren't a chamfer there, you'd be about 0.02" inches short of the edge, right? That "feels" right to me....
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Fret leveling questions

Hi everyone! I'm trying to wrap my head around this problem. I was doing some fret on a throwaway neck and found a couple of uneven frets in the middle of the neck. (I made sure to seat them down before levelling too!) While levelling, I came across an issue where the first few frets and the last few frets were being sanded down before the middle frets. I did make sure the neck was straight with a notched straight edge and the StewMac n…

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Ian Davlin
The notched straight edges isn't the best tool for finding the starting position before a fret leveling. Primarily what you need to know is, without the truss rod being either completely loose or rea…
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Widening fretslots

Hello everyone, I use a Stewmac japanese fretsaw (which produces .023" wide fretslots, matching the width of the tang of stewmac wire) to recut my slots on refrets. The saw does a good job making the slots deeper, but struggles to make them wider and binds like crazy throughout the process. I think that is due to it not having enough (or any) set, so in theory it only cut downwards and does a poor job removing material from the slot wall…

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My fretboards are done with a table saw & correct SM blade, if i need to touch them up after radius i go between the jap saw & regular one sm sells. yellow wax to stop them from sticking when cutting…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Classical intonation puzzler.

I have a Yamaha Classical on my bench that's giving me a run for my money with a mystery intonation issue. All but the B string are perfectly intonated with the usual compensations we see. The B string however is almost an entire 1/2 step off (sharp) at the 12th. Right from the get go the scale starts going sharp incrementally at every fret. I can find the fundamental harmonic on that string but it's sitting halfway between the 11th and…

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I recently had a similar experience with a Yamaha classical, only in my case the B string was flat at the 12 fret. This was with a new set of name-brand strings. The harmonic was almost halfway to the…
Private member DiscussionFinish Repair

When chips happen--customers, expectations, and responsibility

Hey all, I am really enjoying digging through the looth group. I have not yet watched all the ding kings vids or read all the amazing comments and articles here, but I've been appreciating some of the loothing for dollars stuff, seeing other people's intake sheets, discussions about dealing with customers, and it led me to this question: How do people deal with customer expectations, liability, and the inevitable accidents that can happ…

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@member some really solid perspective here, thank you. You're so right regarding the bit about some of the more abusive customers being the most obsessed with cosmetics, to paraphr…
Private member DiscussionGeneral

Martin D-18VM No truss rod?

In the process of evaluating the repairs needed on this guitar I checked to see if the truss rod was working. There is hole in the transverse brace where you would normally insert a truss rod, but all I see is the end of a metal bar with a smallish hole in the center. I tried several allen wrenches that would fit in the hole, but nothing seems to grab. Did they really eliminate the adjustable truss rod on this vintage reproduction? Here'…

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A reproduction with that much wrong?!?! Did the thing go of a cliff in the back of a car without a seat belt, get thrown, and wash up 10 miles south?
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Fingerboard extension gap - new build

I'm nearing the end of my first build. I have about 1 mm gap above the top at the end of the fingerboard extension. I've read and seen some guidance to clamp that down while gluing the extension. Others seem to build in a wedge-shaped shim - although it seems that is mostly done with neck resets and not new builds. A straight edge on the frets is just slightly above the top of the bridge so I think my neck angle is good. What are your t…

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Brad, congrats on nearing the end. It's a good practice to put a straight edge on the part of the top under the FB extension to verify that the top is flat in the fingerboard plane. I learned from R…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Fret pressing at heel transition

Please can I see some quick cauls for dealing with fret pressing at heel transitions? For pressed / glued in frets or clamping down lifting fret ends in this area. I’ve tried a few different methods now and not entirely happy with any of them

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UK based fret pressing system, with 3d printed caul to add a little more stability.
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

1970s Guild S-90

This thing had a conveniently placed hole in the neck pickup cavity that ran all the way to the end of the tenon, presumably the entry point for the long drill bit that drilled the access from pickup cavity to control cavity before the neck was originally fitted. I injected several pipettes of hot water into this hole while heating the fretboard extension area with a silicone blanket to loosen the extension from the body. Reactivated hi…

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Ian Davlin
That is crazy looking. Thanks for sharing !
Private member DiscussionNeck Reset Database

Jester W160 neck joint

This is an early 80's Jester. The only identification is the label inside which appears to show the model number as ACW160, though I've only seen reference to model W160 online. There is scant information about Jester guitars online, and some of it seems inconsistent. This was most likely made in either Holland or Romania. Online information indicated that this would have a dowelled neck joint, but it clearly doesn't. This was a very di…

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Neck block side