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Private member DiscussionDiscussions

Finishing over Signatures

I was approached by a local music venue about finishing over the signatures on this Dean guitar. I have finished over signatures before, but never an entire guitar. The main challenges, as I see it, with this endeavor is prepping the existing finish. Cleaning the existing finish without disturbing the signatures will be time consuming enough, but abraiding/sanding the finish will be cost prohibitive. I have already experimented on a test…

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Why do you think they faded? Sunlight, chemical issue, abrasion?
Private member DiscussionElectric Builds

To fret or not to fret when finishing a neck

Hello, I just received an unfinished, slotted but not fretted maple neck from Warmoth. I believe standard practice is to fret then finish but I’m curious if it might be better finish before fretting? I understand one would want to prevent finish from entering the slots. I’m and going to use tru oil and do a light finish, maybe three or four light coats. Thoughts for this beginner? Dave

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My recent favorite neck finish is Boiled Linseed Oil. It gives a nice smooth, but not shiny finish when applied sparingly. As for fretting order, I would do the frets first so any potential damage to…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Neck block for adjustable neck -thoughts on design

I've built a number of classical guitars with an adjustable neck and they seem to gather quite a bit of interest, so i'm currently in the process of looking to refine the design and build. It's quite a simple construction where the neck is held together by string tension and hangs on a pivot. I developed a 3d printed "socket" which acts as the interface between the body and the guitar and allows for some fine tuning of the alignment of t…

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Not really answering your question but I've done a version of the Smallman/Gore joint (I think it's really just Smallman but whatever) on all my guitars (nylon/steel/gypsy). I'm not particularly conc…
Private member DiscussionFinish Repair

PBass has been stripped of it finish… looking for expertise, friends!

Hi friends, I just stumbled upon a 1966 P-Bass, nearly completely original. The owner bought it in 1971 and it had already been stripped of its original finish. That was a thing back then. You can guess that 55 years of gigging had the wood absorb much of the owner’s DNA and sweat. Maybe a few beers as well. Surface was quite tacky as you can expect. I cleaned it with naphta and StewMac’c brand-new cleaner (quite a great product I'd say…

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Ian Davlin
Ill chime in. Go with shellac first. It may be all you need and if you decide to go with something else, youve already applied the universal seal coat. Also, it has the best chance of sticking to any…
Private member DiscussionFinish New Builds

Tiny Bubbles

Here You'll seehere pin tip sized bubbles. Nitro finish. It got hot in a case. They'll need a light amagolmater mixture applied to melt'm back into the surface. Im looking for advice on the recipe for said amagolmater....Straight retarder? Im not sure if Id need lacquer in the mix that I apply....Thank you! Colin O'Brien LittleCreek Instrument Repair, Nashville. Images

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are those blisters from the heat? Have any of them popped?
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Repair

Do I need a refret?

Hi, thanks for this great resource. This is my first post here. I work on my own instruments and have little experience with advanced repairs. Recently I acquired a ca. 78 Sigma DR28H. I bought it because it sounded great and came with a pickup installed. I wanted something for open mics and gigging. With light strumming it sounded fine but I found some buzzing when I took it to a jam. I made a nut and saddle , adjusted the truss…

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Someone was just asking this recently and you may find the answers insightful: https://dev2.loothgroup.com/all-forums-all-topics/topic/fret-levelling-how-low-is-too-low/ It sounds to me like a good idea…
Private member DiscussionShop Organisation

Lessons Learned from building out a workspace

Hi all. I'm in the process of working with a landlord to customize a space for my growing repair and building business. The space is approximately 800 square feet and broken into a major space (around 400 square feet), and 2nd large space (around 300 square feet) that I'm thinking of as a machine/sawdust room, and 2 smaller areas that I'm considering as a spray booth and a wood/guitar storage closet. I'd love to hear about lessons learn…

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Here's some more tips. I recently remodeled my shop so this is all very fresh. I've been in this shop for almost 15 years and I have rented benches to other luthiers and apprentices in the shop so it…
Private member DiscussionAmps, Pickups, and Pedals

Help needed identifying real PAF

Hello estimable friends, A very long-term friend of mine left us on Christmas Eve after a long illness. His sister tasked me with evaluating, restoring, and selling his stuff. Today I'm preparing to restore a 2008 Longhorn GOM to its original EMGs. Pulling out the humbuckers I see a Pearly Gates and… what looks like an original short-magnet PAF. Correct shape brass screws for the bobbins, UV light confirms sticker and tape, tooling mark…

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Lindy Fralin quickly pointed to me that the pickup looks authentic all right, but the magnet is non-original. Having a second look at it myself, I realized very fast that it has been changed as it is…
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Goldtop Les Paul Color Match suggestions

Does anyone have experience and advice for touching up the color of a Les Paul Goldtop? It looks to be a light sparkle. Not looking to finish the entire top. Thanks!

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Would you recommend spraying?
Private member DiscussionElectric Builds

Nut slot and action trouble

Hi everyone - I recently ran into trouble making new nut for one of my necks that needed to be trued and re-fretted. I roughed in the nut as usual and then, with the bass guitar fully assembled and strung up, I started cutting the slots to depth. I use the StewMac digital nut slot depth gauge and have had good results in the past. I marked the nut's lowest points (radiused) using the guitar nut scribe tool (first time using this!) and c…

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Ian Davlin
That's actually not how that tool was intended to be used. That is essentially plotting a like to the top of the fret. With a bass, you would need much more than that. When James and I came up with th…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Side bending - actual problem or isolated freak out?

Hello All! My first post and I'm very happy to be here and share the highs and lows of this pony ride. After years of bending sides on a hot pipe or bending machines belonging to 'other people', I finally built myself a bending machine. Functionally it is great, but the result on some test material was far from great. See pictures attached. What you see here is a doug fir 'test side' that certainly came out guitar shaped, but oh my, what…

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Hi Benn: My layers are: Metal slat heat blanket 1 wood heat blanket 2 Metal slat
Private member DiscussionFinish New Builds

Sparkle Burgundy Gibson Finish

Hi, I'm wondering how to achieve this color on a guitar. It's Sparkle Burgundy. I suspect the clear varnish has yellowed with age, which is why it has a coppery effect depending on the light. Can you recommend a varnish to achieve this effect? ​​Should I use a UV lamp after varnishing to age the varnish? Thanks in advance for your help.

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Ian Davlin
This is a guess, but I think that is a red translucent finish over bronze powder. Probably gold top powder. Some of the red has done been UVed out and the clear coats have turned yellow.
Private member DiscussionFinish Repair

Shoutout for LED Coatings

I was asked to turn this Fender American Natural Strat into a hard-tail. It would have taken a good while to finish this plug without LED Coatings. I used SM Colortone H2O base grain filler colored with MIxol Ochre; sanded it flat an hour later, then put on a finish with LED Clear Gloss colored with Colortone Stains (Straw, Light Yellow, and a touch of Med. Brown). The entire finish took 25 minutes. THen I glued it in with Epoxy colored…

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We recently switched over to UV cured coatings and it is absolutely worth it!
Private member DiscussionShare Your Repair Content

Weissenborn Top Separation

I had a very unique instrument come into the shop yesterday. It's an American built Weissonborn/lap guitar (*spelling). The top has separated from the kerfing and sides on the lower left bout, and was raised significantly while under string tension when the customer dropped it off. I have a two fold problem as I see it. Applying horizonal pressure to a very light and fragile instrument, and getting enough glue into the separation where…

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Hey KT, I do a few ideas about how to go about this one. If you'd like to discuss them, by all means reach out to me. Email is probably the best. My email is [email withheld]. we can set up…
Private member DiscussionElectric Builds

Issues pushing frets into ebony fretboard

I've only built a handful of necks and most of them have been roasted maple fretboards. This time around I am using a beautiful and incredibly stiff/hard piece of ebony. I am doing a light hammering in of the frets to get them seated and then using the hand-held vice clamps from Stewmac with the correct fretboard radius to push them down evenly the rest of the way. This process works just fine on roasted maple. It's just a softer wood t…

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Thanks all. I widened the slots with a bigger blade and deepened them a bit. It's to the point where they kinda slide in and I'm using CA glue to get them all the way there. Hammering them in just doe…
Private member DiscussionFinish New Builds

LED Coating Solutions

Wow! Sorry I missed the live version of this chat. Having used light cured dental materials for years, I can guess the answers to some of your questions. Beware, these are only guesses because the dental materials are similar, but likely a bit different. First, as far as wearing the orange glasses - it’s a darn good idea. Repeated exposure to a bright light, especially with blue components, will likely promote cataract formation. I do no…

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You've got to watch out for this stuff - it's probably lurking in your shop. Here's more information highlighting the dangers of this ubiquitous chemical: Dihydrogen Monoxide Research Division - dihydr…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Darkening Brazilian RW

Hi all, I was fortunate enough to have been gifted a Brazilian RW B&S set from a friend who inherited it. Unfortunately, while the back pieces were nicely bookmatched, the side pieces apparently were orphans. One of the sides matches the back closely enough, but the other is pretty light, and the contrast is....stark. I want to darken-up the lighter side, but I don't want to just hit it with my best guess for a stain, cross my fingers, a…

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Sunlight oxidation can darken wood. It could be that the way the guitar was stored, it had more light exposure on the dark side than the light side. You could test that by lightly sanding the top 4…
Private member DiscussionElectric Repair

Broken Neck Screws on Suhr JM

I had a client dropped off his Suhr JM Classic for a pot replacement yesterday. The fretboard extension hangs over the pickguard on these a little so I flipped it over to loosen the neck screws a tad. I found what looked like 3 missing neck screws and only one screwed in place. The one screwed in place was bright and shiny. I removed that screw and the neck would not budge at all. I focused a pin light into the neck pocket holes to find…

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I finally heard back from Suhr. They quickly admitted that they used to relique all the screw surfaces instead of just the heads, weakening them in the process. This is a known issue in their enterpri…