The Hub

I have a "fender", which I believe is a knock off, in my shop. I didn't immediately catch that it was a fake, but as I worked on it it's become fairly undeniable, in my opinion. For the neck — the fretboard is made from two pieces of rosewood, the headstock decal doesn't look right, the truss rod is metric, the tuners don't look like a MIA Fender, and there's no walnut plug on the truss access. The model name being wrong is suspicio…

Greetings fellow Looths! I recently received a request from a customer to replicate Kurt Cobains 59 Martin, starting with a Sigma DM3. I have pasted the customers email to me below. While I have been a looth hobbyist for many years, I just recently opened my official business, Finger Lakes Guitar Works, and am just getting off the ground and a good flow of repair work is already coming in. While I feel 100% confident in my abilities to…

I had a vintage Gretsch semi hollow come through the shop this week and it's left me with some questions. First off identifying the instrument's model has been a trick so far. The only information I can find is that is was likely built in and around the early 50's Second, it's in need of a neck reset. I'm not particularly well versed in resets for hollow and semi hollow guitars, especially one of this age and design. I'm very curious…

Hi, I should do a neck reset on a Guild 512B from probably 1973. I have done neck resets before, but this is the first on a guitar that has some value. I want to look out for information about this specific model before i start working. Has anyone done a neck reset on a simular model? What kind of neck joint did they use, and what are the dimensions? Is there anything specific to look out for? I will probably not start working on the guitar…

This is a Kamouraska classical guitar, model 111, made in Canada in 1979. Internet information says it was made in La Patrie, Quebec, and later the line became La Patrie guitars. It looks like someone has been into this one before as the dovetail fit was poor, the gluing is very sloppy, and there are some rough chisel marks on the face of the heel. Note that if you drilled holes at the 13th fret you would miss the pocket by a few mm. Th…

Is it a common problem for the fretboard on an acoustic to develop a hump around Fret #12 and higher, where the neck meets the body? If so, what is the cause, and is there something that can be done, or avoided, during the initial build process? I have two quality Zager brand guitars that both have the problem, with the problem being worse on the cheaper model. I am a newbie to fret dressing and lowering, so I first tried adjusting the…

Dear looth community/colleagues around the world, During 2023/24 I have developed a digital gauge to measure so-called longitudinal twist of (bass) guitar necks: the LTwist® gauge. Just to be clear, this is about the "cork screw" type of deviation along the length of a neck, not the bow of a neck. I think there is no need to explain how a too severe neck twist can make it difficult or even impossible to set up a stringed instrument (guita…

Model is "The '80". Daion built some nice guitars in the 70's and 80's out of a small shop in Japan. Nice old all mahogany 12 string. It's my instrument so doing a bolt on conversion. Forget about trying to get the neck off one of these (apart from Kung Fu) - neck construction seems to be based on multiple dowels (a bit like some Japanese furniture I suppose)

First time here on the forums, not sure how often I'll check in, but thought this the best place to post it. Was playing with an idea proposed by Buck Van Laarhoven on a parametric model for bolt-on neck shims, and found the formulas I wrote up translated easily to Taylor and conventional acoustic neck joints so decided to add boxes for those as well. I'm not well versed in Google Sheets, but couldn't see a way to upload the file direct…

Anyone use a 3D scanner to make models for printing, or CNC? I've noticed a number of inexpensive scanners on the market that appear to be an able to scan with fine detail and accuracy. I've wondered if they could be used to scan a guitar neck, or arch top mandolin plate to then cut on a CNC after tweaking in a CAD program.

https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-design-validate-document/need-lofting-advice-or-is-there-a-better-way-for-this/m-p/13219436

This is an early 80's Jester. The only identification is the label inside which appears to show the model number as ACW160, though I've only seen reference to model W160 online. There is scant information about Jester guitars online, and some of it seems inconsistent. This was most likely made in either Holland or Romania. Online information indicated that this would have a dowelled neck joint, but it clearly doesn't. This was a very di…

Hey Everyone- I have a Martin 000c-16 that is in bad need of a neck reset- Anyone have any experience with this particular model? It’s a mortise and tenon. Will I have more luck using steam or foam cutters? Anything to watch out for? UPDATE-So I think i’m good now. I found a in-depth write up on this model M&T reset process in the new Martin Repair Guide - by Patrick DiBurro Great book BTW- Thanks!

This came to me all smashed up and I rebuilt it with a new sitka top. The neck was bolted on with the fingerboard extension glued to the (original) cedar top. There is a block under the extension with the end of the truss rod running through it. The bolt heads are recessed in the neck block and in another example, I've seen there is a label over the neck block to hide the bolt heads. I don't know if the two brass shims next to the bolt…