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Ian Davlin DiscussionElectric Builds

Shark Guitars

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Pushing boundaries!
Private member DiscussionGeneral Business

I was on a Podcast about my guitar business.

Here it is. I thought it turned out ok. Hopefully it's a help to someone. ☺️

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Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Please recommend someone or volunteer for inlay work

Hi friends, I was at a colleague's shop this morning. He’s a pretty well-known builder. A customer has asked for names (several… grandchildren, you know) being inlayed in abalone in a fingerboard and he’s feeling out of his depth for this task. I have volunteered to help find a colleague who'd be willing to do it. Anyone interested in doing this? Any recommendations for a talented colleague? Thanks friends.

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There’s a very talented young Looth in Trinidad & Tobago (yes not the nearest but boy is he talented for inlays especially) you can find him on FB under Beren Guitars ( I recommend he join the Loothgr…
Private member DiscussionCustomer Relations

Would any of the Council of Elders be willing to speak at a SIMSCal Meeting?

Hello to the Council of Elders! My name is Joe Byron, and I am president of the Stringed Instrument Makers of Southern California (SIMSCal). We have been around for over 30 years and have a large number of members and followers. Our membership includes both professional and non-professional luthiers. SIMSCal meets 4-8 times per year (both live and virtually), and we share tips, processes, stories, and show off our work. We frequently inclu…

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Ian Davlin
Speaking on behalf of myself, I already have. I had a great time too.
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Epoxy Pore Fill question

When using epoxy (either silvertip or epoxy), I try to sand back the epoxy on the surface and only leave it in the pores. I'll start the process with sanding to 320g or so then using an air compressor to blow out the pores. The challenge that I run into is opening new pores in the process. I use a block of wood and long strokes in an attempt to avoid uneven sanding. Ultimately I'll get a good pore fill but I tend to apply several coats…

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Ian Davlin
Are you having a hard time seeing when you have sanded just down to the wood ? If so, you might try a quick naphtha wipe. It should show off where the surface is still covered with epoxy. Due to the f…
Private member DiscussionElectric Builds

To fret or not to fret when finishing a neck

Hello, I just received an unfinished, slotted but not fretted maple neck from Warmoth. I believe standard practice is to fret then finish but I’m curious if it might be better finish before fretting? I understand one would want to prevent finish from entering the slots. I’m and going to use tru oil and do a light finish, maybe three or four light coats. Thoughts for this beginner? Dave

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My recent favorite neck finish is Boiled Linseed Oil. It gives a nice smooth, but not shiny finish when applied sparingly. As for fretting order, I would do the frets first so any potential damage to…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Neck block for adjustable neck -thoughts on design

I've built a number of classical guitars with an adjustable neck and they seem to gather quite a bit of interest, so i'm currently in the process of looking to refine the design and build. It's quite a simple construction where the neck is held together by string tension and hangs on a pivot. I developed a 3d printed "socket" which acts as the interface between the body and the guitar and allows for some fine tuning of the alignment of t…

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Not really answering your question but I've done a version of the Smallman/Gore joint (I think it's really just Smallman but whatever) on all my guitars (nylon/steel/gypsy). I'm not particularly conc…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Gibson Advanced Jumbo plans

Anyone have plans/drawings for a vintage spec AJ they can share, or a link where I can buy them? I haven't been able to find anything other than J45 plans with general notes on the differences that aren't clear enough to follow. Thanks!

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Ian Davlin
I just talked to Mark Stuttman and he's got a couple in the shop that he thought he might do some drawings from. I'm also thinking about getting a 3d scanner that the group can share and then shipping…
Private member DiscussionJob Postings

Looking for CAD expert

Hello all! My name is Jake and I run a repair shop out of my NYC apartment. I am looking for someone who's experienced in CAD to help me with a project. I am working on a 5 string headless bass build for a customer. The neck & body are to be CNCed by a local mill here in Brooklyn, NY. I have a 2D design (PDF and CRD), but I need help making some modifications, as well as translating it to 3D. Pay is negotiable. I will basically pay whate…

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Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Cheap-ish Brace Wood Source

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/bargainbag_spruce.php The air craft industry uses 1/4 sawn sitka and this is a box of their "Scrap wood" that is a good value to have on hand, (usually like 36 in long and various width) imo if anyone is in need. It's an odd ball source, but just spreading info. Be well.

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Very cool! Thanks. Bookmarked. That website has some other cool stuff as well.
Private member DiscussionGeneral Business

Appraisals

Friend brought his "old guitar in the basement" over for me to have a look at. Long story short, it's a 1945 D-18, it's all original and it's a beauty. He had no idea. I explained to him that it was worth somewhere between 15 and 25 thousand bucks, that it needed some fairly routine repairs and that he should get - among other things - an insurance rider and take a little more care of the guitar than he has been. Picture attached for fu…

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Ian Davlin
The VG price guide is a pretty good place to start. On something like that, I'd be tempted to pay for an appraisal from Gruhn's though. They used to do email appraisals that were reasonably priced. Re…

Experienced Builder and Red Wing Grad

Howdy folks, I'm a 2026 graduate of the two year guitar program at Red Wing (Minnesota State College Southeast). Between my two years at Red Wing I worked at Collings Guitars in Austin, TX for two years in the acoustic neck department, shaping and finish sanding ~2000 necks, radiusing and gluing ~750 fingerboards, and pressing ~100 sets of frets. I also spent a couple months in the finishing department level sanding and pore filling ~300…

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Lucas does great work.
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Mandocello neck block

I am building an archtop mandocello (A style) and I'm trying to find out how to make the neck block. It would be more or less like an A style mandolin neck block, but obviously quite a lot bigger. More or less like the image attached. The blank should be aprox 10 x 8 x 12 cm. I'm trying to find a piece of hardwood big enough for this, would it be acceptable if I made some kind of laminated piece? And how should the grain direction be idea…

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Ian Davlin
The traditional A style mandocello neckblocks were mahogany. There are some really good reasons for laminating them because there are forces on the block that make any single grain orientation a damne…
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

Drum Sanding Tops and Backs - When and which sander?

So it seems that a drum sander would be very handy for many parts of a "build from scratch". There are a few out there that cost under $3000.00 that can handle wood up to 4" thick and are wide enough to sand a back or top after the halves have been joined. Jet JWD-22-44 open stand, 22"width Jet JWDS-2550 open stand, 25" width SuperMax 19-38 opend stand, 19" width SuperMas 25-50 closed stand, 25" width Questions: Any recomendations on the sa…

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Tom Krebs
I have the SuperMax 16-32. Works very well. I have experience using an older Jet model. A few things about the SuperMax: The paper changing system is much easier. The quick release feature to raise/l…
Private member DiscussionDesign and Testing

Incoherence between CAD and test-piece

Good morning everyone, I was taking some measurement on production necks with scarf-joint (13° headstock angle) to add some machining process with the cnc. I so recreated the standard neck blank feature (100mm wide and 20mm thick), then drawed the 13° angle. Everything correspond the to the real piace but two measurement: the startingcut behind the break angle is ''off'' by 20mm +/- as well as the cut on the bottom, still off by 20mm…

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Is it possible that the angle of the scarf joint is different from the angle of the headstock on the real piece? Could be a manufacturing quirk
Private member DiscussionAcoustic Builds

black limba for eel block

I don't have a piece of mahogany that is wide enopugh to make the heel block on a dreadnaught guitar. Would black limba make a good heel block? I have a piece of black limbaquarter sawn and 5 inches wide.

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Thank you for taking the time to answer my question I appreciate it