I added measurements for the Yamaha FG red label FG 75's some time ago. I Keep getting these in for neck resets. I wanted to add photo's from the first one because they show that the dovetail joint does not align with the first fret beyond the neck/side to make folks aware so that one knows to slightly angle the drill to hit the pocket. I do the same on the holes drilled at the fret at the side/neck fret. I slightly angle the drill…
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Yeah I've done almost or around 10 of these Red Labels. Most people think it's not possible and might be epoxy. Not the case, right! Hide glue, dovetails totally doable. I think I posted some picks ea…
Hey lads I'm in a bit of an indecisive spot with a 70's yamaha acoustic refret. Pulled the original frets and the tang is .018" with no barbs just divots pressed into the lower edge. The slot is measuring .018". Struggled to find any suitable sized fretwire in stock in the UK that match what the customer wants that'll fit in the slot. Sintoms looked ideal but couldn't find any, so went with something with 0.20 tang and they're not pressi…
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Yes, a dremel is not ideal. Ideally you want an air tool with tighter tolerances. Do you have any pawn shops or junk around your shop? Practice on something, you will get a feel for it.
Hey everyone, recently I've been getting more requests for neck resets from customers, and up until this point I haven't been offering them since I don't have the practical experience. I'm keen to change this, and I've borrowed my fathers Harmony H167 that has seen better days. I've done an initial cleaning and assessment, the truss rod works although I may need to force it into a backbow to have a fully adjustable neck. This shouldn't…
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Also you have to take into account how much flex the top has. If you could set the neck dry then clamp it and string it up you can start the calculations about how much you to take off of the heal. In…
A Gagliano Jumbo probably made by Kay in the 1950's. It looks like this had a previous neck reset based on the shims and some sloppy chisel work. I removed the 14th and 15th frets because I had read that these might have a straight tenon. I didn't need to drill any holes for heat, as the spruce shims both split in half after the fretboard extension was released. The dovetail is about 11mm long, the pocket is 14mm deep, and the 15th fret…
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So it's a traditional dovetail joint then? Hard to tell if there is a taper from photos. The Galiano-labeled guitars made by the Italian luthiers working in NYC in the first half of the 20th century…
I recently picked up a used custom guitar that the seller said he bought in Vietnam Nam many years ago. I bought it as a wall hanger due to the wonderful Mother of Pearl work, especially on the back. It was very apparent that the top on this instrument was sunken at least 3/8 of an inch, as the weird bridge setup was heightened to the max and there was barely any action height. Once I took it apart and removed the foam inside, I was…
Hello, One of my commissions is coming down the pike and it's going to be my first time using bar frets. I could use a once over for any helpful tips if you have any. About the guitar: Aged HD-28 but mahogany back and sides. I think Martin called this a HD-28 M? Skipping the truss-rod and using two carbon fiber strips. My process for Frets: 1: I CNC my fingerboards to a 16" radius and for T-frets I use a .023" to cut slots with a mat…
Depending on the carbon fiber strips and the gauge of string, you're compression may be moot, or at the very least, a fairly subtle factor. I would do a lot of testing before you glue the neck on to t…
Any suggestions if this can be saved? It is a neck I received for free upon replacing it for a customer. The wood was missing and the rod is missing the adjusting nut. The truss rod had pushed the inlay out as well as the wood damage . I wasn't sure if it could be a structurally sound repair. I have no idea of the neck rigidity or action with strings. I wont be online because of a previous dr. appointment but I figured it would be a go…
The Elders are correct .It is a 1976 neck. I was presently working on a different neck , a 1965, so it was on my mind. Thanks to all for the suggestions. My initial instincts were what Doug had reco…
So, I've stained the body and neck and I'm in the process of applying several (3 or 4) coats of epoxy to them for pore filling. I watched Michaels video on the subject. My question is:
When sanding the epoxy I beleive I should stay above the wood (stay in the epoxy) since it is stained, right???
When doing this same process on a body and neck that is not stained, I could sand back to the wood without consequence if I'm consistent…
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Hi Gerry: Since you are starting over I would ask yourself if you really need to apply the stain to bare wood. It certainly can be done but more commonly the color is applied after the guitar is pore…
can anyone help me determine the neck angle on a 12 fret to the body neck Robbie Obrien says the gap betwwen the plane of a 14fret neck and the top of the soundboard at the bridge should be3.5 mm. does that hold true for 12 fret necks
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The 3.5 mm elevation is fine, but the point where you measure the 3.5 will be slightly further back on the top (the distance between the 12th and 14th frets). Assume you want a 14 mm string height.…
Has anyone developed, or know of for sale, a fixture that can be installed in an acoustic body (dovetail neck) during finishing? I'm approaching the spraying stage of my build and would like to be able to have a "handle" on the body that I can use to hold & hang the body during that process. Regards,
Hello, I replaced a nut with a tusq nut. Nut slot height is correct, neck relief is good, action is good. But I’m still getting buzzing on low E and A strings on frets 1-3 primarily. I checked the fret height on fret 1 and it is sitting lower in that area specifically .038 inches. Vs .040 inches for the rest of the frets. I’m thinking this is what’s causing the buzz. Is my thinking correct? Is there something I can do other than a fret lev…
I replaced a broken trussrod in a mandolin today, and after gluing the fingerboard back on I was surprised to feel a small ledge on either side of the board suggesting that in the 3-hour period since removing it, the board had shrunk over its width. It was definitely flush before I removed it, and I used the same locating pins as the original builder, so it can't have shifted. Is it possible that the board could have shrunk that quick…
I just pulled the neck off a Vega Arthur Godfrey Solo Lute baritone ukulele. It was pretty easy. First I heated and loosened the short fretboard extension. I already knew the neck was attached with a glued butt joint and small straight tenon. The picture show where I drilled three holes for foam cutter heaters. I only used the two on either side of the tenon, at the 16th fret (Note: neck joins body at 16th) and didn't need the hole at…
Hey everyone, I wanted to do a bit of a follow up on a repair I'm doing. A customer brought in a Seagull acoustic guitar that had been dropped, causing the heel block to separate. I managed to get that glued back together with pleasing results, however I did need to take the neck off by removing the two bolts which thread into the heel block, and unglued the fretboard extension. All went well here, although I'm left with a situation whe…
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One other issue with the guitar that I wanted to mention was a fairly sizeable split in the back. At its widest, there is a gap of about .015" and I'm curious to know how you all would handle this? I…
To the builders out there, how/where do you store wood for builds? Is it different for back+sides vs tops vs neck blanks? Any periodic maintenance required? Thanks in advance!
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When I first started I was not in a tightly humidity controlled environment, so I stickered all sides/backs/tops. A real PITA and used up lots of room. But when I moved to a controlled environment (…
Customer has this Martin 000-RS1 that needs a neck reset. He's looking to me for advice because he knows the guitar isn't really worth that much. But it's unplayable at the moment. What are you chaps doing for guitars like this? A real cheap, old guitar, I'd just hack the neck off, but this doesn't really fall into that bracket either. Are you doing proper resets on Mexican Martins?
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It's most likely a mortise and tenon joint. But to be certain you should buy Pat's book. It details every Martin neck joint, how to identify and reset. https://www.amazon.com/C-F-Martin-Guitars-Patrick…
Hi everyone! I'm trying to wrap my head around this problem. I was doing some fret on a throwaway neck and found a couple of uneven frets in the middle of the neck. (I made sure to seat them down before levelling too!) While levelling, I came across an issue where the first few frets and the last few frets were being sanded down before the middle frets. I did make sure the neck was straight with a notched straight edge and the StewMac n…
The notched straight edges isn't the best tool for finding the starting position before a fret leveling. Primarily what you need to know is, without the truss rod being either completely loose or rea…
Hey all - I've got a couple Gibson headstock repair investments that I'd like to practice inserting splines for reinforcement (or I may go the backstrap method..tbd).
Do you have any jig recommendations or preferences? I've only seen the G&W option (which looks awesome), several ebay knock-offs and lots of DIY jigs.
I welcome your feedback. Thanks and all the best, Chris
I think this is my favorite. It's not my favorite technique overall, but this version, with the long splines that extend WAY past the transition of the neck is the best. https://mcconvilleguitars.blo…