Great video @member Hello People! Thanks for joining me for this binding repair video! We're working on a '72 Chet Atkins Nashville and a '60 Chet Atkins Country Gentleman. Cheers, Scotty D., Harpeth Guitar Restoration, LLC. Nashville, Tennessee
Hi John, Here's the results of my methodology for getting ABS to look like old celluloid... If you'd like me to walk you through it, feel free to reach out via Instagram or email.
Dovetail was 9/16” deep, and 1 9/16” wide at the back. 15th fret was 1 mm tail side of the end of the dovetail socket but a slight angulation towards the headstock landed in the right place. Hide glue, released easily. Nice everyday player, finish and binding beautiful, good spruce top, warped poplar neck.
The archived video and recent Council of Elders were very helpful in upping my binding reattachment game. Now I need to correct how much I've been charging! Someone mentioned that Martin pays $90/individual separation, I believe regardless of the length of the separation. Does this include finish repair, if needed? Any other guidelines on pricing for binding reattachment will be appreciated. Thanks! Neil
They pay $90 for binding repair “with touchup” and $80 without. Basically they always send the authorization for “with touchup” and never ask if it actually needs touchup. I tell customers “you dont w…
Hi all, I got a Do Santos DSMSCC RC in shop, the Spanish heel has failed , or rather collapsed into the soundboard, splitting it on both sides along the grain, a broken brace just under the fingerboard extension , cracks on both sides on the top/side bindings, I measured wood humidity on the fingerboard 9% and inside the (very inaccessible) body 11% The normal procedure would be to re-humidify before jacking or clamping back into place ,…
Question about splines: At what point are they necessary? My question is primarily regarding the crack to the left between the bridge and the sound hole as well as the crack at the upper bout that runs along the fingerboard extension. I have already glued them both and used the TJ cleats that run the full length of the cracks. I have already splined the lower bout crack that runs from the bridge to the binding as it was super gappy and d…
I have a Kalamazoo made epiphone with the most extreme fingerboard ramp I have seen. I have the neck dead straight from 1st fret to body joint and get a 1/16 of gap when I run a straight edge from 1st fret to the last fret. The frets average .040" but someone leveled the extension and those frets are half the height.
Does anyone have any suggestions for flattening the extension. Clamping a block on it? If I level the board during a r…
I found a pic which helped me see the situation. I think what I was mentioning before would work well. It looks like it would be easy to separate the short length of the fingerboard from the extensio…
Hello again folks, how is everyone!
So I'm curious about what people here think about re-tops, who's done them, and what sorta ballpark rates you've charged for past completed jobs.
I've got a bit of a wild one here, so strap in if you've got a couple minutes for story time!
Back in 2012, I traded an HD28V of mine for a cool 1966 D-35 that needed some work. Basically, the body and neck of the guitar were fine apart from…
Oh yes, it is absolutely not down to financial matters here, or I'd have abandoned it completely hahaha, I've been thinking more about it, perhaps I will take the plunge, and have a bit of silly fun w…
Good afternoon all. I have started the process of removing all the binding from the old Country Gentleman and it's going well. I did discover after removing the strings that the neck is pretty loose and moves around quite a bit (no surprises there). I removed the black plug on the back side of the body then removed the large regular (slot) screw that holds the neck in place. I thought the neck would just slide out considering how loose…
Just sharing some info to procrastinate my nth attempt at getting this thing together. and some venting. If you get one of these in with electronic issues, estimate high.
Customer brought in a Gretsch Rally in pieces that he picked up from the last repairman (who died), and just wants it to play. Minor binding repair and a weirdly-angled zero fret were relatively easy to deal with. The dead electronics are the main problem.…
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I would even consider using 2.5mm TRS or TRRS connectors. (Similar to what Guitar Fetish uses on their pickups.) That would allow modularity of the components, and even easier installation. Only drawb…
Someone recently contacted me about a Gretsch in need of some finish repairs on the binding. This looks to be nitro that has chipped/flaked off over the years and possibly yellowed by nicotine. I'm curious if any of you have experience with this type of repair and what the best way would be to go about it. I'm not anticipating taking this on but I would be interested in knowing the procedure. Thanks!
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The Artisan Guitar Show this weekend gave me a kick in the behind to get back to more promoting of the builds I'm doing. Here's my first try doing multiply binding, and it turned out pretty well
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Thanks! I don't know if Ally from StewMac has an account here, but her talk at the AGS this past weekend gave me the motivation to get back to more content-as-marketing.
Need some guidance for binding repairs.
I'm using the "Martin method" using CA glue and tape for re-attaching the binding.
From there:
Scrape glue
400 grit to level
Brushing on Lacquer
400 grit to level
Meguiars #1
Meguiars #3
Meguiars #7
All by hand.
But I recently purchased a Proxxon hand polisher.
I'm still getting big marks. Its usually "ok", but I'm noticing huge swirls. Not pro.
I do not have the money/space for…
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I suspect your issue stems from not sanding to a high enough grit before polishing. Check out Eagle Abrasives "Assilex" dry papers. Stew Mac has them. Not cheap, but they last a long time. You can…
For those of you who regularly do semi-hemispherical frets -- how long do you make your frets? Specifically for a bound fretboard (although I suppose this would apply to either bound or unbound) do your frets come up a little short of the outside edge of the binding? And if so, how much gap do you leave?
I did my first semi-hemis on a new build and made them end flush with the outside edge of the bindings, but it doesn't feel right.…
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Thanks for adding the visual. So if there weren't a chamfer there, you'd be about 0.02" inches short of the edge, right? That "feels" right to me....
Hi -- I am planning to have a maple Thinline Tele top painted by an automotive paint shop. They've made a glossy and a matt sample for me and it looks great. I wonder if anyone has any experience with this, and specifically:
- if I bind the top first, will the paint stand very proud above the binding once I scrape the paint off the binding?
- the matt looks terrific, but it looks like it will burnish and get shiny in spots or line…
I'm replacing the top on an old Stella with white painted "binding." Wondering what kind of paint I should use to come close to the original and be stable under finish.
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+1 to what Erik said about mixol. You can dirty it up by adding a little brown (lightly) pigment here and there and some dye ambered lacquer to simulate the aged clear coat.